alanbetiger
Active Member
When we moved a few months ago it was time to upgrade from my 190 gallon tank I had previously. The display is 96"long x 30" wide x 28" tall. I started a build thread on my local club so just decided to add it here.
This is after adding everything I had from the previous tank
I added 60lbs of dry rock, 100lbs of sand and 30lbs of crushed coral.
We built this house so added in a drain and water connections in the garage. Added a utility sink myself. Plumbed in my RODI system. The clear box in the back is top off RO water. There's a separate connection into the two trash cans plumbed together for saltwater mixing. The top hose on the right is my water syphon that reaches the tank about 45 ft away from the utility sink. The center hose is long enough for the top off and the bottom black hose is saltwater. Everything is gravity feed with no pumps which is why the trashcans are elevated on cinder blocks. Don't knock the cinder blocks when my "stand" only cost $15 and isn't going anywhere
There's not a lot of equipment to talk about really. The cabinet has three sets of double doors
On the far right is one sump on a stand that receives one drain line from the display. It flows to the left down into the main sump. I'll use this for frags and I just have a cheap Current USA LED fixture that is on an opposite time to the main display lights on it and a nano Koralia for more flow. My purple tang is down there because it was being a butt head to the new yellow tang. He's in Time Out.
The main sump is in the center. It has the standard three compartments. The second display drain line has a T in the top of the picture. The right side goes directly into the skimmer and the left goes into the right chamber. The skimmer I think is a DAS and has two recirculating pumps. It stays constant without needing to be at a certain water level which is nice. It's output was a few inches above the water so the slanted white PVC pipe redirects it back into the right chamber. To the right of the photo are the two drains from the other sump. The middle chamber has a deep sand bed and is for macro algae. I just use a clip on IKEA LED light.
The left chamber is the return section. I have a mag 9.5 for each of the two returns
On the left side of the stand is my top off and electrics. I only have two timers for the whole tank. One for the display and frag lights to turn on/off opposite. The second time is for my aqualifter to turn off/on every 15 minutes since it stops after about 10 min of being on constantly. I put my returns, water top off, and skimmer pump on one power strip to turn off for water changes. My power heads, which I have two Koralia 1050s in the display, and one in the frag section and my algae lights are on another power strip and are on constantly. My display lights are in a timer power strip. Theres another power strip empty for the future. All the power strips are attached to wood with multiple zipties so they cannot wiggle at all. And they are all plugged into a single power strip at plugs into the dedicated outlet I had the builders install for the aquarium that is on a gfci.
Mild setback this week I'll get some pictures up tomorrow.
When we built the house I requested a dedicated GFCI plug placed here for the tank. A few days ago we noticed the corals were looking bleached and got worse and worse through out the day. In testing the parameters I got shocked. Turns out one of the nano Koralias I have in the sump had stray voltage. I didn't have a Multimeter at the time to test how much, but once I removed the pump I no longer got shocked. After talking to our builder we found out they made a dedicated plug but it was not GFCI. Really annoying when you request it specifically and it did not happen. Electrician is coming out next week.
All my SPS were bleached, all the zoas were not opening, my anenome was 1/3 it's normal size, and my clams weren't open. All the fish were completely normal and eating well that afternoon. Now two days later I'm starting to see a little fluorescence on my SPS except for 3, all my zoas are fully open, and the anenome is about 1/2 the size it normally is. So I got lucky and didn't kill myself from the stray voltage and also it appears I only lost a few corals.
These were all taken immediately after the stray voltage was removed from the tank
On the right the zoas are closed and the plate is bleached
On the right the green slimer is gone and the middle was a rainbow montipora
The rainbow montipora in the middle is a loss and others are starting to come back
My anenome on the right is really shrunk along with the clam
My second clam is closed and this used to be about 100 Kedd red zoas all closed up
These frogspawn and hammer used to be about the size of a soccer ball and are looking better today
Things are finally bouncing back. Sailfin, purple and yellow tang
All 4 tangs. Kole, sailfin, purple and yellow
Two RBTA about 4 inches in diameter. I have two ocellaris that host it. There's another four in the tank also
This is after adding everything I had from the previous tank
I added 60lbs of dry rock, 100lbs of sand and 30lbs of crushed coral.
We built this house so added in a drain and water connections in the garage. Added a utility sink myself. Plumbed in my RODI system. The clear box in the back is top off RO water. There's a separate connection into the two trash cans plumbed together for saltwater mixing. The top hose on the right is my water syphon that reaches the tank about 45 ft away from the utility sink. The center hose is long enough for the top off and the bottom black hose is saltwater. Everything is gravity feed with no pumps which is why the trashcans are elevated on cinder blocks. Don't knock the cinder blocks when my "stand" only cost $15 and isn't going anywhere
There's not a lot of equipment to talk about really. The cabinet has three sets of double doors
On the far right is one sump on a stand that receives one drain line from the display. It flows to the left down into the main sump. I'll use this for frags and I just have a cheap Current USA LED fixture that is on an opposite time to the main display lights on it and a nano Koralia for more flow. My purple tang is down there because it was being a butt head to the new yellow tang. He's in Time Out.
The main sump is in the center. It has the standard three compartments. The second display drain line has a T in the top of the picture. The right side goes directly into the skimmer and the left goes into the right chamber. The skimmer I think is a DAS and has two recirculating pumps. It stays constant without needing to be at a certain water level which is nice. It's output was a few inches above the water so the slanted white PVC pipe redirects it back into the right chamber. To the right of the photo are the two drains from the other sump. The middle chamber has a deep sand bed and is for macro algae. I just use a clip on IKEA LED light.
The left chamber is the return section. I have a mag 9.5 for each of the two returns
On the left side of the stand is my top off and electrics. I only have two timers for the whole tank. One for the display and frag lights to turn on/off opposite. The second time is for my aqualifter to turn off/on every 15 minutes since it stops after about 10 min of being on constantly. I put my returns, water top off, and skimmer pump on one power strip to turn off for water changes. My power heads, which I have two Koralia 1050s in the display, and one in the frag section and my algae lights are on another power strip and are on constantly. My display lights are in a timer power strip. Theres another power strip empty for the future. All the power strips are attached to wood with multiple zipties so they cannot wiggle at all. And they are all plugged into a single power strip at plugs into the dedicated outlet I had the builders install for the aquarium that is on a gfci.
Mild setback this week I'll get some pictures up tomorrow.
When we built the house I requested a dedicated GFCI plug placed here for the tank. A few days ago we noticed the corals were looking bleached and got worse and worse through out the day. In testing the parameters I got shocked. Turns out one of the nano Koralias I have in the sump had stray voltage. I didn't have a Multimeter at the time to test how much, but once I removed the pump I no longer got shocked. After talking to our builder we found out they made a dedicated plug but it was not GFCI. Really annoying when you request it specifically and it did not happen. Electrician is coming out next week.
All my SPS were bleached, all the zoas were not opening, my anenome was 1/3 it's normal size, and my clams weren't open. All the fish were completely normal and eating well that afternoon. Now two days later I'm starting to see a little fluorescence on my SPS except for 3, all my zoas are fully open, and the anenome is about 1/2 the size it normally is. So I got lucky and didn't kill myself from the stray voltage and also it appears I only lost a few corals.
These were all taken immediately after the stray voltage was removed from the tank
On the right the zoas are closed and the plate is bleached
On the right the green slimer is gone and the middle was a rainbow montipora
The rainbow montipora in the middle is a loss and others are starting to come back
My anenome on the right is really shrunk along with the clam
My second clam is closed and this used to be about 100 Kedd red zoas all closed up
These frogspawn and hammer used to be about the size of a soccer ball and are looking better today
Things are finally bouncing back. Sailfin, purple and yellow tang
All 4 tangs. Kole, sailfin, purple and yellow
Two RBTA about 4 inches in diameter. I have two ocellaris that host it. There's another four in the tank also
