Yeah I recently lost 8/10 to velvet also. The 2 survivors were a percula clown and an engineer goby. I didn't know if there was an exception. Thanks for all of the responses.
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Sorry for your losses. I was pretty devastated with mine.Yeah I recently lost 8/10 to velvet also. The 2 survivors were a percula clown and an engineer goby. I didn't know if there was an exception. Thanks for all of the responses.
Ok, now that we are playing devil's advocate, if velvet was introduced to a tank of healthy fish, what are the different fish that would be able to either not contract or fight off the disease?
so why are wrasse so sensitive to cupramine then? I'm trying to develop a QT protocol for wrasse and gobies w/o having access to CP.Fish with thin mucous coats - tangs, basslets, puffers, butterflyfish - would be most at risk.
Fish with thick mucous coats - clownfish, wrasses, mandarins - would have the best chance for survival.
Many times following a velvet outbreak, clownfish are the only ones left standing.
so why are wrasse so sensitive to cupramine then? I'm trying to develop a QT protocol for wrasse and gobies w/o having access to CP.
Based upon anecdotal experience, they appear to be more sensitive to Cupramine than a chelated copper product such as Coppersafe or Copper Power. @vedros74 @4FordFamily @melypr1985 can all testify to this.
However, I feel TTM is ideal for such small fish: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tank-transfer-method.192655/
You just need a tight fitting lid (either way) to prevent jumping with wrasses & gobies.
For every time somebody posts on diswase forums even though they quarantined, there are ten-fold more of those that post on disease forums that didn't quarantine.Eatbreakfast I have to respectifully disagree with some of your points. I believe a fishes immune system needs constant influxes from disease organisms to remain healthy. My tank and many other's prove that beyond a doubt. (I posted on here someplace a thread about immunity with references so I didn't make this up) In a few years my tank will be 50 years old. Some of my fish are 25, in all that time it makes sense that velvet was introduced dozens if not hundreds of times, yet there has never been a case of it in my reef in at least 35 years.
Am I that lucky! or that good an aquarist? I don't think so. I am not that smart. Just look at all the disease threads. Especially from people who quarantined. How many threads start, "I quarantined for 72 days and lost all my livestock"?
Why did their fish die while I can (and do) throw flounders and all sorts of other things in my tank. Marine velvet would do nothing to my fish even if I had a tank full of tangs.
I do add amphipods from the sea, but only in the summer.
And about if my fish die from old age. I actually do autopsy and have been for many years. I have posted my results many times and in not one case have I found parasites on a dead fish Unless I just bought it as a test or got it for free. I advocate autopsying and mention it in my book. If you have gobies dozens of times, you get to know what their lifespan is. I know clowns live to be about 30 years old as many people keep them that long. No one has kept one for 40 years so I assume their lifespan is about 30 years. Humans live about 100 years. A very few lived to 112 and one or two lived to 118. But our lifespan is about 95 or so years. None of us lived to 150 and fish also can't live past a certain time but all fish have a different lifespan. I know what disease looks like and I know what to look for in an autopsy.
I do add mud from the sea but I don't think that has anything to do with the fishes lifespan. I think that would do more for the bacteria in the substrate and hopefully help control nutrients in the water. I believe (and I could be wrong as I am not the God of fish) that it is the daily influx of live bacteria from live blackworms and clams is what keeps my fish immune. And they are immune because any scientific study lasts much shorter than the 35 years that my fish have been disease free. I think 35 years in any study would conclude that the fish are immune or at least their immunity can last for 35 years.
The vast majority of people in this hobby have disease problems, Why is that? I think I know.
I wrote a few articles about my thoughts so I don't have to post them here. I know it is boreing but it is what it is.
I wrote this about how to tell if your fish is dying of old age.
http://www.saltwatersmarts.com/how-to-tell-marine-fish-dying-old-age-5782/
I wrote this about fish biology.
http://www.saltwatersmarts.com/fish-biology-lesson-3230/
This about the merits of feeding fish oil.
http://www.saltwatersmarts.com/in-praise-of-fish-oil-6127/
This about feeding fish
http://www.saltwatersmarts.com/want-healthy-spawning-fish-feed-them-properly-5010/
Some fish are more resistant to disease and parasites, though still able to get it.
Wrasses and clownfish produce a relatively thicker slime coat that is more difficult for some parasites to penetrate.
Fish that are hardy won't get stressed out as easily as more delicate fish, and when stressed fish's immune systems don't work as they should.
Other methods, such as ttm can be utilized to guard against particularly virulent pathogens.
I don't use copper with wrasses, though I am beginning to suspect their sensitivity to copper is in part to misdosed copper, or a new wrasse's frailty, rather than the copper itself.
Mikey, if you always quarantine, you should continue doing so. Try to get your fish into spawning mode anyway, they will thank you. Not out loud maybe.
To get fish into spawning mode you need real food, not flakes or pellets. Frozen, fresh or the best live food is the secret. Of course if you wanted to follow my thinking, you would need food with live bacteria. But not everyone agrees with my thinking so make up your mind what to do and stick with that.
http://www.saltwatersmarts.com/marine-fish-heal-through-slime-3962/
Some fresh amphipods.
Mikey, if you always quarantine, you should continue doing so. Try to get your fish into spawning mode anyway, they will thank you. Not out loud maybe.
To get fish into spawning mode you need real food, not flakes or pellets. Frozen, fresh or the best live food is the secret. Of course if you wanted to follow my thinking, you would need food with live bacteria. But not everyone agrees with my thinking so make up your mind what to do and stick with that.
http://www.saltwatersmarts.com/marine-fish-heal-through-slime-3962/
Some fresh amphipods.
The big problem with not quarantining is that many people don't do it correctly.