Bacteria in a bottle?

[edosan]

Flow, light period and Dr tim might work also.

Re-Fresh is acording to him the way to go (get rid of slime), and after that waste-away (get rid of nutrients that feed slime).

 

[Davy Jones]

I stirred the tank up pretty good and cranked my 2 mp40's to 100% (90g tank). Here's what I did:
How I beat them.

Run the finest filter sock you can get your hands on (clean regularly)
Run as much carbon as you can (the dinos can be toxic)
Run a UV sterilizer, the dinos release into the water column at night
siphon out as much as you can before starting (I probably did a few 20-30% water changes)
I dosed KZ Coral Snow at night as it claims to bind to the dinos
I dosed lanthum cloride to reduce p04
I dosed twice the recommended dosage of phyto plankton to compete with the dinos

The dinos were just about gone in 24 hours. I think my only mistake was not turning the lights out for the 2 days while I was waiting for the UV to arrive.

If you have a few days to kill you can read the horror stories here-http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2307000

Ive already read nearly that entire thread, im on page 133 lol also you must be Karimwassef? I feel like that is the method you described on that thread as well

 

[ksc]

No, I only posted twice in that thread. But I definately had the type that released into the water column at lights out. I had a couple "It's clearing up" mornings, but after a couple hours of light the tank would be a mess. It wasn't toxic to snails but it was toxic to sps. All my smooth skinned acros died, save one 1/2 Hawkins. One whole side died, base to tip, the other side looks great.

 

[jdack]

Currently battling this as well. This is about as bad as I've had so far. At this point, I'm just letting it be. Only have my anemones in there, and they barely get fed. Hopefully they starve out. Lights on 5 hours a day, to make sure the anems fine.

I've wanted to get a cuc, but when this dies, o2 level is going to plummet.

 

[Ryengoth]

I'm dealing with them on my glass and rocks as well after relocating my algae to the refug. Have you tried running a bio-pellet reactor to control-feed cyanobacters? They've seemed to have taken over and the tang loves it when I scrap the glass so I've not really changed anything else at this point. LOL The rocks are brown except where the coralline has taken over and there's hardly any string or web covering anything.

 

[imustbenuts]

Currently battling this as well. This is about as bad as I've had so far. At this point, I'm just letting it be. Only have my anemones in there, and they barely get fed. Hopefully they starve out. Lights on 5 hours a day, to make sure the anems fine.

I've wanted to get a cuc, but when this dies, o2 level is going to plummet.

This looks like Diatoms to me. How mature is this tank?

 

[CoralNerd]

Yeah, I don't see the bubbly snotty stuff.

 

[Fishinwall]

Great thread.... Here's what I'm fighting with not much luck....any recommendations? What kind is it?

All that bright green stuff on my sand.

 

[Davy Jones]

Great thread.... Here's what I'm fighting with not much luck....any recommendations? What kind is it?

All that bright green stuff on my sand.

White photos would be my first recommendation lol

 

[Fishinwall]

That would be nice too

 

[Davy Jones]

Currently battling this as well. This is about as bad as I've had so far. At this point, I'm just letting it be. Only have my anemones in there, and they barely get fed. Hopefully they starve out. Lights on 5 hours a day, to make sure the anems fine.

I've wanted to get a cuc, but when this dies, o2 level is going to plummet.

I also say diatoms, should be gone in ~3 weeks if you have a quality rodi unit and good wc schedule.

If it does turn out to be dinos (don't think it is) not feeding won't starve them out, and personally I would start over if I was you. Get rid of the rock, sand and anemones, run just the empty tank with bleach water for a week and try again from the beginning with all new livestock.

 

[Davy Jones]

That would be nice too

Based on what I can see from the picture on my phone and in current lighting I would not say dinos.

HOW EVER I am extremely far from being an expert. If you are unsure of what it is, try getting a sample to a microscope somehow (I went to a local vet office) look at 100x mag and take a video. Then compare videos online to see if it is dinos and what species exactly

Good luck

 

[TD13]

I've tried a couple of things already to combat dinos, lights out and h2o2 dosing via a doser then a 40% waterchange (helped a little then they returned)


Stopped waterchanges and over fed, most successful at lowering amount of dinos however algea then takes over. And ironically waterchange and manual removal of a large amount of algea allowed the dinos to return.

I did daily 20% waterchanges in conjuction with over dosing h2o2 at night and this did nothing.

I have not gotten a uv sterilizer
I have not removed my sandbed
I have not elevated ph
I do overskim with an oversized skimmer
I do run filter socks
I run rox.8 carbon


My personal experience has been this: letting the tank get "dirty" caused a drastic reduction in the amount of dinos that grew every day, to the point where I felt comfortable ordering more coral. Before the new coral got here I did a large waterchange and removed probably 40% of the algea growing in the tank. This caused the dinos to return (they have never been to plague proportions, but they bother corals enough to have some tissue loss and it continues from there)

Tldr; tank gets dirty from feeding and no wc, algea grows, dinos dis spear, I clean tank and remove algea, dinos return.

My thoughts are removing the algea and cleaning the tank removes the competition for nutrients for the dinos and they start to bloom. So if I add 2 litres of pods, add some bottled bacteria every so often (maybe a couple strains) and maybe even add a small piece of live rock and cup of sand from an established tank I might be able to compete with it.

I am no scientist or expert, these are just my observations.

just had a bad case. get your self a QT and jack the pH to 9+, turn the lights off and do a couple 100% water changes. problem solved.

 

[jdack]

Thanks guys. Tanks only 2 weeks now, but sand, rock, filters etc is 2 months. It gets so dang thick! Covers everything!

 

[Fishinwall]

Based on what I can see from the picture on my phone and in current lighting I would not say dinos.

HOW EVER I am extremely far from being an expert. If you are unsure of what it is, try getting a sample to a microscope somehow (I went to a local vet office) look at 100x mag and take a video. Then compare videos online to see if it is dinos and what species exactly

Good luck

I think mine is cyano

 

[jdack]

How should I combat this? My RO unit is on order, I use store bought RO for the moment. Light schedule, water changes. I do about a 5g every other day Atm nitrates still hit 5-10 ppm as per API.. I've been toying with the idea of setting my 10 gallon up, to save the major coraline growth and anemone. I'd do this to scrub down the rock and h202 treat the tank itself. From what I heard, the rocks may be leaching the nutrients, the no3/4 that I'm battling.

 

[Davy Jones]

How should I combat this? My RO unit is on order, I use store bought RO for the moment. Light schedule, water changes. I do about a 5g every other day Atm nitrates still hit 5-10 ppm as per API.. I've been toying with the idea of setting my 10 gallon up, to save the major coraline growth and anemone. I'd do this to scrub down the rock and h202 treat the tank itself. From what I heard, the rocks may be leaching the nutrients, the no3/4 that I'm battling.

You dont lol your tank is ~ 2 months old, this is diatoms, this is part of your cycling of the tank. All you do is keep up with waterchanges, and leave the diatoms be. Welcome to whats called the "ugly phase" also your anemones should not be in the tank yet. Many people say a year or longer before getting a nem, i dont think you have to wait that long but i definitely wouldnt put one in prior to 6 months, especially if this is your first tank and dont have much experience with them.

Some nems can be very difficult to keep alive and happy, others can be some of the most beautiful and easy things to take care of in a reef tank. It just depends on the nem itself (not species but each particular one)

Your rocks could be leaching nutrients but your bacteria populationw ill eventually be able to keep them under control no problem if you take it slow and let things mature

good luck and welcome tot he hobby

 

[jdack]

Thank you. I understand the risks with the anemone, unfortunately I did not when I got him/it. Hopefully my diligence with monitoring the tank will help. I do daily testing, if nitrates are above 10, I do a 5 gallon change. Once a week I do a 10. Thanks to everyone on this site, I've learned so much! I have to say, I'm enjoying even this "ugly" stage!

 

[jdack]

On another note, the anem still has his color ( more so than at the LFS) his mouth has closed, and seems to be enjoying the cut shrimp I feed him every 3 days. I also supplement with this :

The blues

Full

White ( its actually the coral plus)

 

[Fishinwall]

Better pictures of my pretty growth.