Best Saltwater Aquarium Heater? You choose!

den75

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From what I remember reading it's only the 150w and 200w heaters from a certain production run. If you search you should be able to find out which one and check your heater to see if it was made in that timeframe.
That's correct. I believe it was around the February 2013 production run that had the issue.
 

cmcoker

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Was this your personal experience ? If there is a potential problem with these heaters I would like to know. Thanks.
No, I found the posts about the higher watt neotherms exploding in people's tanks. The black goo contaminating the tanks is not something I would want to deal with, aside from some reports of actually hearing the heater pop.
That ^, combined with the Marineland stealth heaters being recalled years ago, led me to decide I would never put another plastic heater in my tank.

Which was sad for me cause I really liked the look and size of the neotherm but I just don't want the risk, and that is just my comfort level.

So, just my 2¢
 

Dtackett

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ebay glass heaters. cheapest I can find. used them for years without fail. never stuck on, never burnt out
 

Aussie paul

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I try and stay clear of the glass heaters as I've replaced too many in my wife's tropical tank. After awhile they start condensating inside and short out and all were jager's
 

Dtackett

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I try and stay clear of the glass heaters as I've replaced too many in my wife's tropical tank. After awhile they start condensating inside and short out and all were jager's

you can make a case out of pvc for it that will protect it. just need pvc that will give some clearance, couple caps and a powerhead. drill holes though the pvc, affix the powerhead, place heater inside and plug it in. just be sure your heater cant touch the pvc and youre fine.
 

mcarroll

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Also take a look at Lifegard Aquatics' heater module.

First it's just about identical to what you described. But also it's not too expensive by itself, and you may get some ideas from it. (Check, but it may even be Made in USA.)
 

Turbo's Aquatics

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Lifegard Aquatics' heater module
I've never seen that before, pretty interesting. I think I would need to get hands-on before using though, it's not very self-explanatory. A vid or more pics would make it clearer, like how does it stay full? Does it sit in the sump? etc.
 

mcarroll

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I've never seen that before, pretty interesting. I think I would need to get hands-on before using though, it's not very self-explanatory. A vid or more pics would make it clearer, like how does it stay full? Does it sit in the sump? etc.

It's designed with external applications in mind, so I imagine gravity keeps it full as in a canister filter. (Water IN and OUT are both at tank level, above the filter/module.)

I haven't used one but I'd think sumps should be fine too since they aren't allowed to run dry, but it's something to keep in mind depending how you plumb it! [emoji106]

Worst case scenario should be that the pump driving the module fails leaving the heater isolated (but protected and functioning).

Personally I am dependent on seeing the heater lights go on and off to know that things are working so I don't know how I would cope. [emoji16][emoji1]

But I do like the protection this unit affords to the heater. If you're somebody who has had problems in the past it seems sensible.
 

mcarroll

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From the diagram it looks like there is a standpipe next to the heater within the module that would hold the correct water level even in an open sump even during power or pump failure. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
 

Betty1964

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Does anyone know of a reliable heater for a large but shallow tank? My display is 265 gallons and plenty tall enough but my sump is a shallow 240 gallon (water is only 12" deep).
 

jassimps

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Im using entire Fluval E Series line-up (both 300 & 200 watt ) each on both 90gal freshwater & 105gal saltwater tanks including their respective quarantine tanks (100watt & 50 watt). I control the heaters with JBJ digital Heater controller (which max outs @ 1000watts). Everything is monitored by the Apex controller in the background.
 

BryanD

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Careful with the Via Aqua glass heaters, bought one last Feb, died 3 weeks ago. After not running all summer, by the way. So yes, go with a controller, I have finally, seems my track record with glass heaters ain't been to hot lately (pun intended, LOL!:) ). I've had 3 different brands die suddenly in the last 3 years, with none of them over 3 years old and one brand new. So after replacing the Via Aqua with a Marineland Precision I also got a Finnex Digital heater control + memory, working well so far. Other heater in the sump is a Cobalt Aquatics.
 
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