Building a stand and sump

[JoshH]

As of right now, i have a 65 gallon tank. 36 x 18 I believe. I guess my question is, will I have problems putting this sized tank onto a stand that is 48x30? Like normally if my tank was being put onto of the 48x30 it would sit basically flush with the posts. As of now, there will be area that the posts aren't under I think..? Unless the cross pieces across the top will handle that problem itself? I don't know if I am just being more confusing or not right now.. lol

I see exactly what you are talking about now and you should not have a problem with that at all. the cross pieces should handle that without an issue. I do suggest if your goal is to upgrade follow blues design. Go with the 2x8 top crosser and so on. And I second ricks comment on predrilling or counter sinking the screws. you can purchase countersink bits for next to nothing and they make it a breeze.

 

[Be102]

I'd personally drill pilot holes and countersink them (so the screw heads don't stand proud of the surface) then liberally apply glue, spread out evenly and screw the parts together. The screws will act as clamps until the glue dries. Take a damp rag and wipe off any glue squeeze out before it dries. After 24 hours it will be fully cured and will be permanent and waterproof. Don't get the wood glue on any surface that you are going to put a finish on, otherwise you will see a spot there! Good luck

Okay, just watched a quick youtube videos before I asked the basic question of ' what is a pilot hole, what does it mean to countersink them." Basically it is to make a pre hole, then at the end is to make place the screw can hide inside? Are you recommending I do that and before I screw the screw in itself, I put glue in the hole and then screw in? Or does the countersink just hide the screws by basically sinking them into the wood? I guess I am unsure if you actually want me to glue the outside of the hole after I screw it, or before? Can you recommend some type of screws that would work well for my wood? I would be using a combination of probably all the planks, 2x4, 2x6 and a 2x8 just for the heck of it.

 

[JoshH]

you sink your pilot hole through the first piece into the second, drill in with the counter sink bit, apply glue between the two pieces of wood then screw in the screw into the hole you counter sunk

 

[Be102]

and of course you can go and buy a bunch of one length, for me I'm frugal and don't like waste so I will plan out all my pieces before hand and then purchase length's that will limit my waste, personally I will suggest the full 8' 2x4 at 96" for you. they will be the most flexible and you will get the most pieces out of them. for the 2x6 or 8 whichever you go with 8' will do as well

I will most likely be like you and work smarter not harder and sit down and figure out the actual measurements themselves, prior to going to buy the wood. I assume the 2x4 you recommended is 8 feet long? Did you just take a guess at the number being 8 needed? Or were you just referring to the size of them?

 

[JoshH]

I was only referring to the length, the actual number needed will be different

 

[Be102]

you counter sink your hole through the first piece into the second, apply glue between the two pieces of wood then screw in the screw into the hole you counter sunk

OH! So the glue is basically to reinforce the screws themsleves.. so if they were to ever start to come apart, the wood would be there too.. got it! I guess the reason I am a little confused with countersinking the screw is that the video I just watched just had one piece of wood being used..so it just basically looked like it created an extra hole for the screw to disappear into.

 

[Be102]

I was only referring to the length, the actual number needed will be different

Thank you

 

[Be102]

I am not really sure how and what type of sizing I would need for the flat part across the top? I guess it isn't flat just yet but I am talking about the top brace where I would run the plywood over. Any idea what sizing and stuff goes into that? I assume those are fine to be used as 2x4s? Will I sacrifice any strength for not having a second reinforced bar running along side the back wall ?

 

[Be102]

I have come up with the following plans.. Please tell me if I am atleast somewhat accurate. The ideas are to have it 48 L, 24w, and 30 height. I am going to be doing something similar to @Bluefish9 's design.. well atleast if i can figure out how the diagonal pieces word .. I hope the numbers and everything is fairly clear. I took account the fact that the lengths aren't actually the correct length based on the logs losing some size.

 

[Bluefish9]

Amazing Setup you have there!! Do you have a build thread?

I do but unfortunately its on another "forum" that I recently abandoned due to this one being soooo much better lol.

By the way OP, my stand is 48 1/2"w x 24 1/2"d x 40" high. Sized to fit a 120, or 150 tall.

 

[Be102]

I do but unfortunately its on another "forum" that I recently abandoned due to this one being soooo much better lol.

By the way OP, my stand is 48 1/2"w x 24 1/2"d x 40" high. Sized to fit a 120, or 150 tall.

After my dimensions seemed a little tiny just cause the tank would be fully flush rather than have any excess around it. I think I will do similar to you with regard to 48 1/2"w and 24 1/2 width. Do you think that 30 tall might be too short? I guess I am just going in comparison to my current stand. The problem with 65 gallons are they are tall similar to how a (150t) is I believe.. but am unsure about that. I figured these dimensions cause they will fit well for whatever comes in the future. Are the pieces of wood across the top 2x4's as well? It looked like you somehow cut a notch into the wood allowing you to sort of cris cross in? Other than having some different dimensions, do you think I get the idea or it just yet? Are those numbers fairly accurate?

 

[JoshH]

your numbers look good and given the materials being used 30" might be a little short once you subtract 3 1/2 x 2 for the top and bottom framing you're left with a space of roughly 22 1/2" high including a 1/2" plywood base for the interior of the cabinet. as long as you can find a skimmer that's roughly 20" tall and no more you will be fine but that might be a challenge. theoretically if your skimmer was placed somewhere between the top braces you could gain an extra 3 1/2" making the space 26" which is more than enough but it limits you on where you can locate your sump within the cabinet

 

[Bluefish9]

Its not that 30" is "too short", its all preference really. I wanted my tank higher for two reasons:
•to be more like a picture window since im building a wall bar around it and people will be viewing from a standing height
•sump maintenance is always a pain with small spaces. It was paramount to me to be able to stick my head or arms under there.

That said, it comes at a cost... reaching into my tank is a hassle!

Everything in my stand is 2x4 construction except for the two front uprights and the front header which are 2x6 and 2x8 respectively. There are no notches cut. Let me see if I can take a picture from underneath

 

[Bluefish9]

This is inside towards the front

 

[Be102]

Its not that 30" is "too short", its all preference really. I wanted my tank higher for two reasons:
•to be more like a picture window since im building a wall bar around it and people will be viewing from a standing height
•sump maintenance is always a pain with small spaces. It was paramount to me to be able to stick my head or arms under there.

That said, it comes at a cost... reaching into my tank is a hassle!

Everything in my stand is 2x4 construction except for the two front uprights and the front header which are 2x6 and 2x8 respectively. There are no notches cut. Let me see if I can take a picture from underneath

This answered my question. From the original photo, it seemed that the diagonal pieces were cut into the other one, but that is a lot clearer. Thanks.

This tank is alongside my bed, which is actually low on the ground so the 30' height seems adequate. I actually wish I could go lower honestly but the fact that my tank has depth it doesn't really allow it. Maybe I will rethink about height. I guess the biggest idea of the 30' height was the ability to just ideally slide the tank right onto the stand itself, without much hassle. But as others say if I want a skimmer that is inside and isn't smaller than by a few inches. I might have a problem. I guess in the long run I should make the stand as large as possible because I don't see many ' my stand/sump is too big' threads posted around here.

 

[Bluefish9]

Yes. Personally Id go no less than 36". If you truly do upgrade to a 120, most skimmers for that size tank are approx 24" tall which at 36" height would give you 29" (actually a little less considering a plywood bottom). Thats really already cramped but do-able.

 

[Be102]

Yes. Personally Id go no less than 36". If you truly do upgrade to a 120, most skimmers for that size tank are approx 24" tall which at 36" height would give you 29" (actually a little less considering a plywood bottom). Thats really already cramped but do-able.

I was looking over at @redfishbluefish 's build thread and was wondering if I could somewhat incorporate his stand design which gives access to the door along with the front . So I guess could I skip out one of those 2x4's on the short end? I guess the only thing different between red's build and my idea, is that mine is basically flipped meaning the corner is on the right as opposed to on the left. I just don't know if it will compromise the structural integrity of the stand itself..

 

[JoshH]

so you would like a side door basically??

 

[Be102]

so you would like a side door basically??

Yes, ultimately its just a side door. I am just curious if the 2x4s will be strong enough without that extra support, basically the difference between red's and blue's (Lol)

 

[JoshH]

just replace the 2x4 on the out side over the door with whatever strength is at the top on the front example if you use a 2x6 on the front for the top plate use a 2x6 for the side as well it will also have the benefit of matching the front opening height wise and you'll keep the strength over all