Check valve for new sump

[aquablizz]

What are people using for a check valve on the return line?? I have a 1" feed to my new sump which will auto stop if the display level drops 3/4 inch but I would like to install some type of check valve for the 5/8 return line in case of a power failure to possibly prevent flooding the sump... This would be just as a backup as the return line is sitting 1 inch below the surface of the display tanks normal water level..

I was also thinking of drilling a couple 1/8" holes approx. 3/8 inch down from the display tanks surface level to break the syphon but wanted to put in a check valve also.

Blizz

 

[recess62]

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/georg-fischer-wye-check-valve.html

This is what I used. I also drilled a syphon break

 

[aquablizz]

Thanks for the reply Recess... Looks like a nice valve.. and easy to periodically clean up for better dependability.

Blizz

 

[zoomonster]

BRS also has http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/spears-true-union-check-valve.html

Mines been in use about 2.5 years now w/o issue and has never needed to be cleaned.

 

[jsker]

Used the Georg-Fisher wye check valve, it may b more cost but work great. No springs or flap valve

 

[AZDesertRat]

Check valves have no place in a reef tank and are a false sense of security.
Design the returns and sump correctly and you will never ever have a problem and you can sleep peacefully at night.
You stated it only drops 1" before the siphon breaks and most any sump can hold that small amount extra so why would you even consider drilled holes and check valves that will both require regular maintenance and fail anyway? You already have an air gap at 1" drop and that is the best form of backflow prevention known to man, requires zero maintenance, costs nothing and cannot fail since we all know water cannot jump uphill.
Makes no sense to me?

 

[aquablizz]

Thanks everyone for you replies..
As DesertRat said maybe I am overthinking this somewhat. Thinking this through a little more my biggest problem would be the flooding of my display tank should the main drain become clogged and the return pump overfilling the display tank... I am using a CPR overflow box with an aqua lifter to supply my sump with a 1 inch line.
I will be elevating the return pump today in the sump so that it pulls water from just below the surface hopefully creating a cavitation situation should the main drain clog or restrict the flow into the sump.. Some basic math should give me the information I need to predict the water volume needed to flood the main display...

 

[AZDesertRat]

Personally I would get rid of the CPR overflow which depends on the Aqualifter which can fail, and go with a simple U or J tube type overflow. Eshopps and Lifereef make extremely reliable overflows. You couldn't give me a CPR.

 

[Waters]

While I have never used a CPR overflow, I do agree that the U type overflows (such as the Eshopps) are extremely reliable. I ran one for years without any issues at all. The pumps were shut down once a week and I never once lost siphon.

 

[MaccaPopEye]

As far as I am aware the "best practice" is to make your return chamber small enough that if the drain blocks your DT wont overflow and to make the un-used space in the sump enough that if the power goes out the DT draining down to the sump wont cause it to overflow.

The only real issue with that I have read about is if your drain does block and you have a large ATO that keeps pumping to top up the sump as it empties into the DT, hence why drains like the bean animal are best.

My current tank is designed as I described above so it cant flood - no check valve needed. I am in the process of an upgrade and the new tank and sump will be designed the same however I will also be putting in a "reverse check valve" (search melevs reef on youtube - great vids) so that I can turn the power off without the level of the sump rising much, if at all so the skimmer stays happy but at the same time if it fails then there wont be an issue.

 

[revhtree]

I've never used one myself.

 

[Brew12]

I added a check valve to reduce noise during and after the feed cycle. The check valve helps maintain a much more constant level in my overflows so there is less of a water drop when the return pump starts. My sump is more than large enough to take the water if the valve fails open so that isn't an issue for me.

 

[ReeferBob]

I rely on the water draining back to my sump when I turn off the pump for water changes. It isn't even close to enough to flood (either direction) but gives me ample water to remove without exposing my heater to the air.

 

[Shaun Sweeney]

What are people using for a check valve on the return line?? I have a 1" feed to my new sump which will auto stop if the display level drops 3/4 inch but I would like to install some type of check valve for the 5/8 return line in case of a power failure to possibly prevent flooding the sump... This would be just as a backup as the return line is sitting 1 inch below the surface of the display tanks normal water level..

I was also thinking of drilling a couple 1/8" holes approx. 3/8 inch down from the display tanks surface level to break the syphon but wanted to put in a check valve also.

Blizz

I'm just building a new system and I plan to drill holes just below the water level. I'll be testing the system in the next few weeks so I'll find out what size of hole it takes to break the syphon. The down side of the check valve is the cost of pump performance.

 

[lou dog420]

I will keep my check valve, thanks!!

 

[jsker]

I have a check valve and a CPR overflow, not making any changes

 

[lou dog420]

Even the best of check valves is going to leak by.. I have an expensive check and it still leaks by..they will defiantly buy you some time though.

 

[lou dog420]

I think the problem with a check on a reef system is there just isn't enough back pressure to get it to seat properly.

 

[ianf77]

Don't take everyone's word for it when they say check valves have no place in a reef tank. I disagree.

I agree that the sump should be able to accommodate the volume of DT displacement (siphon break) in the event of power failure. Hence, careful placement of DT return nozzles.

The bean animal design somewhat provides backup for drainage. I.e. Secondary and emergency drain.

However, I use a spears opaque ( flapper style) check valve immediately after my manifold from the return pump.

The reason for this is I found that with a soft start D.C. Pump and impeller design it was difficult to prime (start up)during feed or power failure ( lack of back pressure . I use a check valve at a low point in my return line only to maintain some head pressure during the slow startup of the impeller. Since adding this I have never had an issue with the fluid cycle starting.

Check valves IMO do serve a purpose in aquariums depending on overflow/drain configuration and return pump design. Sometimes the focus is on disasterous consequences rather than a basic engineering function.

Check valves do have a place depending on the design of the system.

Pumps push better than pull

 

[AlanM]

I always liked this idea from melev, reverse check valve.

http://www.melevsreef.com/node/1782