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LOL! I was going to let that slide, but since you already brought it up; when I got my Galaxy, the guy at the Verizon store was calling it the iphone 6. "Because it's gonna take apple at least another generation to catch up!"Did someone really just say the iphome 5 was leaps and.bounds better?
I deeply regret using the iPhone as an example hahha. I will never use one.
Replace with android, or poloroid camera, whatever. Haha
while it seems that lots of people are too afraid to argue points on this forum I think these arguments brought up some of the most informative posts on LEDs here.
sent from my phone.
seriously..Seriously?
What benefits does the color LEDs has? Should I install red, green, uv, etc. Also how many would I need for a standard 90 gallon tank.
seriously..
If you have not taken away any new information from these posts I feel sorry for you. How and a little of why LEDs work as reef lighting has been described very patiently by several contributors.
sent from my phone.
Dang... I can't catch a break here! I didn't mean that in a bad way... just feeling VERY ganged up on. Not having a pleasant experience here at all. I apologize.
Ok that was a very honest mistake, that came from the tone you set by calling everyone whatever it was.. And I think you were being ganged up on for essentially calling everyone incompetent. I'm sorry for taking your comment the wrong way, honest mistake.
sent from my phone.
Thank you! Incompetent? I never ever said or would say that. Anyways I just wanna get out this thread. I apologize.
Several pigments make use of red light, specifically arounf 630nm and 660nm. Cool whites don't provide much above 600nm so you won't get these wavelengths from a CW. NWs generally provide some spectrum up to around 650nm so they may cover the needed peaks around 630nm but they just don't produce enough deep red to negate the use of 660nm emitters. Many WW LEDS produce light up to 700nm or beyond but it is questionable whether they produce enough at 660nm to be used without a little "help" from a deep red LED or two, even when they are your only white LEDs. If you are mixing your WWs with CWs or NWs it is a good idea to add dedicated 660nm emitters. TAnd as for reds and greens you can really just use a mix of cw, nw, ww to get those peaks but the UV are sick.
As above, red light is more than just asthetic. Your corals use some red light.Personally I like having the deep red. Makes it not look so anemic.. makes the color look a little warmer... not really sure how to explain it..
even if it only amounts to aesthetics..
If you've learned something about spectrum today, it's probably worth feeling picked on. You'll feel much better about it tomorrow and you'll know some stuff that you didn't know yesterday. Sorry if I picked on ya, I was just trying to help you out.Dang... I can't catch a break here! I didn't mean that in a bad way... just feeling VERY ganged up on. Not having a pleasant experience here at all. I apologize.
I think more than anything people want a good discussion they can possibly learn something from, not bickering and name calling. You have contributed to this thread just like everyone else and I sincerely hope you stay and continue discussion. Let's just keep it civil
Garrett
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+1As above, red light is more than just asthetic. Your corals use some red light.
Ok I wanted to add a final thought. This advice was given to me years ago when I first got into hobby. Be weary of advice and always consider the source. Never take advice unless you have seen that persons tank. Because it is very important that someone knows what they are doing BUT EVEN MIRE important that they are able to apply their knowledge and actually have a nice setup.
I am so glad I received this advice because on a couple local forums there are always several that will offer all kinds of input and then you see their empty tank, tank full of mushrooms, sick fish, etc....and say "ohhhhh my! I've been entertaining this persons input?" EEEKKKKKK. Now of course I know this is very hard to do especially on an international scale like this forum BUT I hope this makes an impact on pour blue tang who has asked for advice.
+1Ok I wanted to add a final thought. This advice was given to me years ago when I first got into hobby. Be weary of advice and always consider the source. Never take advice unless you have seen that persons tank. Because it is very important that someone knows what they are doing BUT EVEN MIRE important that they are able to apply their knowledge and actually have a nice setup.
I am so glad I received this advice because on a couple local forums there are always several that will offer all kinds of input and then you see their empty tank, tank full of mushrooms, sick fish, etc....and say "ohhhhh my! I've been entertaining this persons input?" EEEKKKKKK. Now of course I know this is very hard to do especially on an international scale like this forum BUT I hope this makes an impact on pour blue tang who has asked for advice.
I agree. But keep in mind that, compared to a RB/CW fixture, blue and cyan ARE color LEDs. One thing that I've found helpful is to count all emitters under 500nm as blue and all color LEDs above 500nm as whites when working out a ratio of royal blue to white. I think a common mistake is to start with a set RB:W ratio, add x violets and y blues and then wonder why the final result is a fixture that is bluer than expected. Orange and red LEDs will indeed add warmth and balance the cool colors, that's why I add them to the white side of the ratio.To me the problem comes from to much blue leds drowning out the other colors. So color leds like red help counteract the highly blue tanks that most led users run and allow us to view those colors and have ur blue tank with all that pop. If u turn your blues.down youll get colors.more inline with a MH but with leds part of the appeal is the extra pop those high peaks provide.