SB Reef Lights
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Posting my hack to use 0-10v control for *********. This is from almost 2 years ago, but I just joined R2R and thought someone might find it usefull. Allows control of spectrum, dimming and timing with any 0-10v controller.
This is for any of the Evergrow D2040 LED lights. The newest versions all have the same dimmer circuit that this mod will work with.
First, one ALC will only run 2 lights correctly. Even though it's only sensing voltage, with 3 units power drops to just below 6v at 100%. 2 runs 7.5 to 8v which is plenty as most folks do not turn these lights up over 65-70%. FIgured this out by stealing ideas from others on the interent. I figured I would post it here since it was a total ***** trying to google the information. With these lights down to $100 each now, there will be more folks looking to control them.
Step one, get needed supplies.
1 Roll of 4 core intercom wire form Radio Shack
Wire Cutters/Strippers
Computer connector pins or but connectors.
Electrical tape
I am still trying to find male connectors to make it more plug and play. I still did this in a way to allow putting the LED back to stock with the manual dimmers with out cutting wires.
1. Open case. There are 8 screws around the perimeter. Top slides out.
2. Pull knobs off. They just slide off with a firm pull. Under the knob is a retaining nut. Remove it as well. Flip cover over and remove 4 pin connector wire from circuit board, noting which side is oriented up. In the last picture you see the blue circuit board. On the far right are the 4 poles on the back of the 4 pin connector you just disconnected. The top pole is 12v from the power source. The 2nd pole down is power to the drivers and fans. You will short both together. This will put power to the fans and drivers any time power is applied to the unit. You PC4 will now turn the unit on and off. Pole 3 is the 0-10v PWM signal coming off the dimmer switch. This now goes to the red wire from the ALC. The last (4th) pole is the ground. This connects to the black wire from the ALC.
3. The 4 wire connector going to the drivers can simply be spliced to the ALC wires, however I wanted to be able to put things back later. I kept the circuit boards and knobs in a drawer. I got computer pin connectors for an RS232 type plug. They fit perfectly in the 4 pin connector. As you put each pin in, wrap it with electrical tape so there is no chance of shorting out. I am looking for a male connector that would work better. No luck so far, though a small computer PWM fan controller connector is real, real close.
The 4 pin connector has 2 tabs on one side that slide into the circuit board. With those two tabs facing you the bottom two wires are shorted together, Red wires below. 3rd wire is the positive wire (red) from the ALC. The top wire is the ground wire )Black from the ALC.
Tape up the connectors.
I used the 4 wire intercom wire to run the 2 channels from the ALC to more than one LED light. White and black where blues, red and green were the whites.
Wires are then run through the hole left by the dimmer knob you removed.
4. For just one unit you can simply wire straight to the ALC. For 2 or 3 units, you need to make a bus of sorts. I used the 4 wire intercom wire and bus connectors. Very simple and straight forward.
I mounted mine in a canopy, so first I used a hole saw to cut holes for the fans, cords and wires. I used 4" long 1/4-20 bolts to mount the lights. This gave me the ability to til the lights forward or backward. I ended up with about 15* backwards tilt for best coverage.
Next I made the buss with 3x 4 pole buss connectors from radio shack. Note: I was using only one ALC at first. Concept is the same regardless if number of ALCs. I now have 2, with a third on the way.
Here are pics of the walk through. It's really pretty easy. You can now change spectrum, intensity, timing and ramping from your controller. The $100 "*******" is suddenly hanging with the expensive trendy lights.
Here they are again. Might be missing a couple but you will get the point.
Inside the case
Dimmer board, save to make stock again.
4 pin connector removed from circuit board.
Computer connector pins I used.
Inserted into the 4 pin plug. Note the bottom two shorted together for power. Top two are your 0-10v leads from the ALC
A little heat shrink, then black electrical tape.
All done, time to button the unit back up.
Mounted into the hood. I have 6 units now. Used 4" long 1/4-20 machine bolts and nuts. Allows you to angle the lights back a little for better coverage on the rock pile.
Pic of the buss I made for routing the ALC 0-10v control wires. I have 3 ALCs now. ONe was not enough to drive more than 3. With 3 max voltage is 6.9v or about 70% power on the lights. Since most don;t go above 70% many people can run 3 on one ALC, I could not with a 31" deep tank and lots of SPS.
6 units. Tank is doing well, SPS growing like crazy, on par with my previous MH set up.
This is for any of the Evergrow D2040 LED lights. The newest versions all have the same dimmer circuit that this mod will work with.
First, one ALC will only run 2 lights correctly. Even though it's only sensing voltage, with 3 units power drops to just below 6v at 100%. 2 runs 7.5 to 8v which is plenty as most folks do not turn these lights up over 65-70%. FIgured this out by stealing ideas from others on the interent. I figured I would post it here since it was a total ***** trying to google the information. With these lights down to $100 each now, there will be more folks looking to control them.
Step one, get needed supplies.
1 Roll of 4 core intercom wire form Radio Shack
Wire Cutters/Strippers
Computer connector pins or but connectors.
Electrical tape
I am still trying to find male connectors to make it more plug and play. I still did this in a way to allow putting the LED back to stock with the manual dimmers with out cutting wires.
1. Open case. There are 8 screws around the perimeter. Top slides out.
2. Pull knobs off. They just slide off with a firm pull. Under the knob is a retaining nut. Remove it as well. Flip cover over and remove 4 pin connector wire from circuit board, noting which side is oriented up. In the last picture you see the blue circuit board. On the far right are the 4 poles on the back of the 4 pin connector you just disconnected. The top pole is 12v from the power source. The 2nd pole down is power to the drivers and fans. You will short both together. This will put power to the fans and drivers any time power is applied to the unit. You PC4 will now turn the unit on and off. Pole 3 is the 0-10v PWM signal coming off the dimmer switch. This now goes to the red wire from the ALC. The last (4th) pole is the ground. This connects to the black wire from the ALC.
3. The 4 wire connector going to the drivers can simply be spliced to the ALC wires, however I wanted to be able to put things back later. I kept the circuit boards and knobs in a drawer. I got computer pin connectors for an RS232 type plug. They fit perfectly in the 4 pin connector. As you put each pin in, wrap it with electrical tape so there is no chance of shorting out. I am looking for a male connector that would work better. No luck so far, though a small computer PWM fan controller connector is real, real close.
The 4 pin connector has 2 tabs on one side that slide into the circuit board. With those two tabs facing you the bottom two wires are shorted together, Red wires below. 3rd wire is the positive wire (red) from the ALC. The top wire is the ground wire )Black from the ALC.
Tape up the connectors.
I used the 4 wire intercom wire to run the 2 channels from the ALC to more than one LED light. White and black where blues, red and green were the whites.
Wires are then run through the hole left by the dimmer knob you removed.
4. For just one unit you can simply wire straight to the ALC. For 2 or 3 units, you need to make a bus of sorts. I used the 4 wire intercom wire and bus connectors. Very simple and straight forward.
I mounted mine in a canopy, so first I used a hole saw to cut holes for the fans, cords and wires. I used 4" long 1/4-20 bolts to mount the lights. This gave me the ability to til the lights forward or backward. I ended up with about 15* backwards tilt for best coverage.
Next I made the buss with 3x 4 pole buss connectors from radio shack. Note: I was using only one ALC at first. Concept is the same regardless if number of ALCs. I now have 2, with a third on the way.
Here are pics of the walk through. It's really pretty easy. You can now change spectrum, intensity, timing and ramping from your controller. The $100 "*******" is suddenly hanging with the expensive trendy lights.
Here they are again. Might be missing a couple but you will get the point.
Inside the case
Dimmer board, save to make stock again.
4 pin connector removed from circuit board.
Computer connector pins I used.
Inserted into the 4 pin plug. Note the bottom two shorted together for power. Top two are your 0-10v leads from the ALC
A little heat shrink, then black electrical tape.
All done, time to button the unit back up.
Mounted into the hood. I have 6 units now. Used 4" long 1/4-20 machine bolts and nuts. Allows you to angle the lights back a little for better coverage on the rock pile.
Pic of the buss I made for routing the ALC 0-10v control wires. I have 3 ALCs now. ONe was not enough to drive more than 3. With 3 max voltage is 6.9v or about 70% power on the lights. Since most don;t go above 70% many people can run 3 on one ALC, I could not with a 31" deep tank and lots of SPS.
6 units. Tank is doing well, SPS growing like crazy, on par with my previous MH set up.
