Dead quarantine

Humblefish

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Be sure to check for flukes (see below in red) whilst doing the FW dip. If no flukes show up, I would treat for parasites instead. TTM (for ich only) or copper. DO NOT use CP on a Hippo Tang.

Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes & "Black Ich", Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
 
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mrmole83

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Thank you. I did the fw dip yesterday. Today i check the fish and the patches are biger than yesterday. Now i can actually see the white flesh. It looks like the hippo has been flashing like crazy. How to help him recover now?
 

melypr1985

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Thank you. I did the fw dip yesterday. Today i check the fish and the patches are biger than yesterday. Now i can actually see the white flesh. It looks like the hippo has been flashing like crazy. How to help him recover now?

Did you find any flukes after/ during the dip? He's gotten an infection but that's secondary to the real problem. I was hoping it's flukes which would be pretty easy to get rid of. Look our for ick spots on him and the other fish.
 
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mrmole83

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I could not really observed because i didnt have unfortunately a black bucket. However i dont see any icht. There is scratch and white flesh. On my hippo.
 

Humblefish

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I could not really observed because i didnt have unfortunately a black bucket. However i dont see any icht. There is scratch and white flesh. On my hippo.

Can you post a pic of this?
 
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mrmole83

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Hallo guys. I have newly aquired 5 blue green chromis and a longnose butterfly. I have a 100l tank. Now I want to quarantine them before adding to DT. Do you have any experience with these guys?
 

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Hallo guys. I have newly aquired 5 blue green chromis and a longnose butterfly. I have a 100l tank. Now I want to quarantine them before adding to DT. Do you have any experience with these guys?

I've not had any trouble with the longnose and personally find them easier than the copperbands and whatnot. The chomis are different however. They tend to come in with uronema and just start dying on you left and right. Most people will buy a dozen just so they can end up with 5. Here's some quick info on Uronema so that you can be prepared to treat them for it weather they show symptoms or not which would be my advice for keeping all five alive (hopefully).

Uronema marinum:

Symptoms - These are the red sores often seen on chromis damsels. The disease seems mostly confined to damsels and clownfish, but I have seen some exceptions to that.

Treatment options - This is a very difficult disease to treat. Possible treatment options include: Metronidazole (ex. Seachem MetroPlex), acriflavine (ex. Acriflavine-MS), Chloroquine phosphate and copper. The problem is the fish can never be returned to the infected tank from which it came. Uronema is a “free living” parasite which does not require a fish host. So, going fallow will not eradicate it. Most fish seem protected from it via their natural immune system; but for some reason, chromis and some other fish are not always afforded this protection. Once a tank has Uronema, it must be assumed that the disease can survive in there almost indefinitely.

Formalin bath or freshwater dip may provide temporary relief for Uronema.
 

Humblefish

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Unless you have access to Chloroquine phosphate, I would give those chromis a formalin bath and also treat with metronidazole in QT.

You won't hear me recommend formalin often, but uronema is something you don't want to risk getting in your DT.
 
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mrmole83

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I have prazipro, copper and i can also get chloroquine. Can i use those instead?
 

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Unless you have access to Chloroquine phosphate, I would give those chromis a formalin bath and also treat with metronidazole in QT.

You won't hear me recommend formalin often, but uronema is something you don't want to risk getting in your DT.
HF...Is Chloroquine a "sure" fix or should I give up the idea of having chroma in my 65 fowlr?
 

Humblefish

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I have prazipro, copper and i can also get chloroquine. Can i use those instead?

Chloroquine would be ideal then; no need to use formalin or metro.

HF...Is Chloroquine a "sure" fix or should I give up the idea of having chroma in my 65 fowlr?
I've successfully tested CP on chromis w/uronema, and so has alprazo & a LFS I advise. The only failures have been when infected chromis were taken from a DT, treated and then returned to the same DT. But that is to be expected as Uronema is a “free living” parasite which does not require a fish host (it can feed on bacteria in the tank.) So, going fallow will not eradicate it.
 
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mrmole83

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10mg/L; so exactly 1 gram.
1.This should i get to this dose all at once or gradually?

2. If gradually then over a period of how long?

3. How long should i keep them in 10mg/l before introducing into DT?
 

Humblefish

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1.This should i get to this dose all at once or gradually?

2. If gradually then over a period of how long?

3. How long should i keep them in 10mg/l before introducing into DT?
Dose all at once.

I would keep them in this concentration for 30 days and then observe afterwards for at least a couple of weeks. You might also consider deworming (with Prazipro) during the observational period.
 

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