DIY kalk reactor

redtop03

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here was my first attempt

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I cut off the neck down below the cap and a 1.5" PVC pipe fit snugly inside,I glued it in with the multi purpose PVC-ABS glue...I then added the 1.5" cross joint and then the 1.5" to 1/2" reducers and the john guest fittings to each side,the input side has a hose connected on the inside and the input water will exit on the bottom of the jug which should help to stir the kalk,the other john guest fitting is the output,and the threaded fitting and threaded cap on top to pour the kalk powder in.....

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redtop03

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hooked up and running,it seems to be working great,it wouldn't gravity feed like I was hoping,the input to the jug is just too high for the water to flow,I did connect directly to my RO/DI and the jug kept getting bigger :aah: but the aqualifter pump is pushing water through it like a champ....I like this better anyway,now I have control as to when it is dosing,it will only run at night,to help with the PH swing

you can see here how I teed into my top off line to feed the jug,I have the aqualifter plugged in with my fuge light so it's only on at night.....the output tube has an air shut off valve to regulate the output to a fast drip...it's working great,I just need a way to stir the kalk now

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redtop03

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this design turned out to be an epic failure,for some reason the top of the jug decided to get some hair line cracks(maybe a bad reaction to the ABS-PVC solvent)and was leaking badly.....it was working great tho...gotta find an alternative to the jug...back to the drawing board again
 
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redtop03

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came up with a new plan....take one of these,the MR1 XL media reactor,and convert it into a kalk reactor

MR1XL.jpg
 
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redtop03

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and here it is as a kalk reactor...almost,it looks so much better than the big ugly jug :D

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I removed the media strainers and sponges,teed into my ATO water line and connected the AquaLifter pump to feed it with,then added the ball valve to control the water flow into the reactor,this was working great except when the pump was off,gravity took over and it kept siphoning into the sump,I don't want it to continually drip,I want to add kalk at night time only,so I had to figure out yet another obstacle....

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easy fix though,I added another tee on the output side to break the siphon and it is higher the my ATO tank so it stops as soon as the pump is off.....

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now I just need to figure out a way to mix the kalk....I'm thinking about just ordering 2 Uni-seals and drill into the side of the reactor body to install a MJ 400,like some other kalk reactors are done....

I'd really like to find a slow turning motor like the stirring type kalk reactors uses.....the stirrers gently mix the kalk continually and it's still safe to use while it mixes.....with the pump design,the pump has to be used with a timer and the kalk has to settle back down before it's safe to use again....lots of room for error on my part there :D
 
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redtop03

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Interested to see how this goes, that plastic will be gettin pretty hot when you are mixin kalk in it.

that could have been some of the reason that the jug failed,it shouldn't be a problem with the media reactor though,the MR1 XL is build really well.....I'm not 100% sure but I think the clear tube is PVC or extruded acrylic,I don't think it is cast,it's not crystal clear like the cast acrylic that I've seen...it's already lasted longer than the jug did though LOL
 
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redtop03

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I got more done to my kalk reactor...

I used a heat gun and flattened 2 spots in the reactor body for the JG bulk heads,drilled and mounted the bulk heads and had a successful leak test.....

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I hooked up the aqua lifter mixing pump and poured the kalk water back in it and got it hooked back in line.....
after the kalk settles back down,I'll plug the mixing pump in and adjust the ball valve until it gently stirs the kalk,it should work great but we'll see......

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I'll try to get a video of it mixing after it's in operation and post it too.....
 
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redtop03

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here's a parts and price list as well as links to the pieces :D

reactor body--$99.99 NextReef MR1 XL Media Reactor

3/8"npt to 1/4"push connect--$2.99 x 2 Elbow 3/8" NPT x 1/4" Push Connect (Murlok)

1/4" Tee--$3.49 x 2 Tee Union 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" Push Connect (Murlok)

1/4" bulk heads--$3.99 x 2 JG 1/4 inch x 1/4 inch Bulkhead - Grey

1/4" ball valve--$6.99 x 3 JG 1/4 inch x 1/4 inch Union Ball Valve

AquaLifter pump--$13.49 x 2 Tom Aquatics Aqua-Lifter Dosing Pump

grand total is $168.88

1 ball valve and 1 Tee is optional,I just added those so I could drain some water out to refill with kalk...that added $10.98 to the total..so it could be built for about $160
 
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redtop03

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thank you......it is working flawlessly,the little aqualifter pump is doing a great job at mixing the kalk,I still have the ball valve turned way down on it but I increased it a little,it isn't half open,the aqualifter can stir the kalk enough to keep the water white.....right now,it keeps a little haze just a half inch or so above the kalk powder but the top water stays crystal clear...1 of the best DIY projects I've made yet,the only 1 that is actually working correctly...besides my tank,that is :D

I did 1 other thing that I haven't posted....on the output of the mixing pump on the inside of the reactor,I added an elbow to turn the flow down,with it just flowing straight out,it wanted to just wash a hole out in the kalk powder next to the reactor body and then it didn't seem to mix it very well,once it made the hole...the elbow fixed that....cost wise,it wasn't really a money saving project but it was a learning project for me....if I had the acrylic fabrication knowledge that TroyLee has,I could have made the reactor body and save a bunch of cash :D
 

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