DIY sump upgrade

[Evan West]

I feel the time has quite possibly come to ditch my Fluval G3 and get a sump. The tank is a 20g long zoa and lps tank and im looking at the sump to help stabilise the tank some and allow me to add equipment without having it hanging all over the tank. Im looking at a 10g sump or some other weird or custom size but it needs to have a filter sock, skimmer, frag/holding/refugium area, and a pump/probe/dosing chamber to make the trouble of moving a sump (im a college student) worth while. It needs to be pretty heavy on the DIY to keep costs down but thats fine im an engineering student and quite handy at making things. Basically just feel free to post anything you feel is helpfull. Currently im trying to figure out how i want to do the overflow? Also things like what pump and skimmer?

 

[coralosity351]

If its a 20 long it can be drilled out. Thats what i did to mine. If you can fit another 20 under it that would be easier to turn into a sump in my opinion it gives you more length to divide chambers in to

 

[Evan West]

If its a 20 long it can be drilled out. Thats what i did to mine. If you can fit another 20 under it that would be easier to turn into a sump in my opinion it gives you more length to divide chambers in to

Another 20 will take up to much room when moving so its not an option unfortunately.

 

[coralosity351]

Then you can use a 10 but then space management is crucial if you wana fit all of that in it. You can get the glass cut at a local shop or get 1/4 inch acrylic and cut everything your self. The only thing with acrylic is you need a good amount of silicone to keep it place because it does not bond nearly as well as glass at all

 

[mcarroll]

A plain 10 gallon tank will work.

Skip all the chambers so you can always use the space how you like it – even if things change. Build a bubble stopper out of 1" to 2" PVC fittings. (whatever size works best at your flow)

I used a couple elbows and a wye for my sump....something I worked out in the plumbing aisle at lowes. My ATO sensor and fill line are tied to the bobble stopper....your dosing lines could be as well. The outlet of the bubble stopper points right at my skimmer pump intake.

 

[Evan West]

hmmm any ideas for a good pump that can hit at least 180 gph but wont break the bank

 

[reeferfoxx]

hmmm any ideas for a good pump that can hit at least 180 gph but wont break the bank

Check out jebao return pumps from fish-street.

 

[mcarroll]

hmmm any ideas for a good pump that can hit at least 180 gph but wont break the bank

Quiet One pumps are some of the most affordable pumps that I'd be willing to use as a return!

Depends on the exact plumbing (height, diameter, fittings, etc), but since it's a small tank, probably on a smallish stand, most likely a Quiet One 1200 would be all it would take. ($20 or so) Sold at all the usual joints.

http://www.lifegardaquatics.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Q1-AQUARIUM-Lit.pdf

 

[Evan West]

Well im looking at a 1' drain and targeting 180-200 gph on the return if i can get that.

 

[mcarroll]

Sorry for not being specific enough, I meant that it depends on the return plumbing.

How long? What diameter? Etc.

If it's anything but a simple return straight up to the tank, then also tell me about other fittings or features that will be in use.

 

[Evan West]

3 ft head hight and just a straight flexible run right to the nozzle, only other thing that would be there is a gate valve if the pump is not controllable. I dont know diameter yet for the return cuz it depends on whats compatible with the pump but probably 3/4" or close to that. As i said i want 180-200gph from the return if i can get that drain rate with a 1' drain.

 

[mcarroll]

The drain won't be an issue.....should handle 600 GPH...up to about half that rate (300GPH) it'll even be dead-silent.

No sweat for your ~200GPH.

3/4" doesn't cause much friction in 3/4" PVC....tubing should actually be a little better, so not really any additional head loss due to that:

Pressure Loss (psi): 0.08 Head Loss (ft): 0.2
Line Number:
Date: 2/2/2017
Nominal Pipe Size: 0.75
Pipe Schedule: SCH 40
Flow Rate (gpm): 3
Viscosity (cP): 1
Specific Gravity (water=1): 1.025
Temperature (F): 79
Pipe Roughness (ft): 0.000016
Actual Pipe ID (in.): 0.824
Fluid Velocity (ft/sec): 1.81
Reynolds Number: 11802
Flow Region: Turbulent
Friction Factor: 0.03
Overall K: 3.75
Piping Length (ft): 4
Short Radius Elbows: 2
Pipe Exit : 1​

So the QuietOne 1200 should do the trick!

 

[Evan West]

The drain won't be an issue.....should handle 600 GPH...up to about half that rate (300GPH) it'll even be dead-silent.

No sweat for your ~200GPH.

3/4" doesn't cause much friction in 3/4" PVC....tubing should actually be a little better, so not really any additional head loss due to that:

Pressure Loss (psi): 0.08 Head Loss (ft): 0.2
Line Number:
Date: 2/2/2017
Nominal Pipe Size: 0.75
Pipe Schedule: SCH 40
Flow Rate (gpm): 3
Viscosity (cP): 1
Specific Gravity (water=1): 1.025
Temperature (F): 79
Pipe Roughness (ft): 0.000016
Actual Pipe ID (in.): 0.824
Fluid Velocity (ft/sec): 1.81
Reynolds Number: 11802
Flow Region: Turbulent
Friction Factor: 0.03
Overall K: 3.75
Piping Length (ft): 4
Short Radius Elbows: 2
Pipe Exit : 1​

So the QuietOne 1200 should do the trick!

Now do i want a gate valve on just the drain or also on the return?

 

[mcarroll]

Gate valve is overkill...at least for the pump. Either no valve at all or just get a simple ball valve. I'd try it without a valve just to save expense....why put a $10 valve on a $20 pump?

I'm not sure about the Herbie. Perhaps try it without if you think that makes sense. You can always connect it after an experimental run in case it doesn't work out.

 

[beaslbob]

you can make an overflow from pvc pipe.

the sump can be storage containers with small containers for the pump whick also form the baffles of the tank like sumps.

Shouldn't cost more the $40-50 or so.