DT Prime
Active Member
Hey Everyone!
Literal first-timer here, hoping to get some advice before I take the next big step and get my first tank wet! Still have lots of what I'm sure are basic questions, especially since aquarium equipment instructions are interesting to say the least
I'll briefly describe the current setup and throw up a few pictures, then end with some of my initial questions. PLEASE feel free to fire away with comments or questions of your own! Criticism is much appreciated since as I said this is my first go and I would desperately like to avoid any leakage, hardwood-floored 9th story lofts and water don't get along so well (not to mention the thick wool rug it sits on!)
Sump Equipment: Reefer 250 with stock sump/ATO (at least for now, would love to eventually plumb the stock ATO for a small refugium/pod farm and upgrade to a simple external DIY 5gal ATO), Vertex Omega 180i skimmer, Water Blaster 3000 return pump (3/4" output adapter with 3/4"x5/8" wye-split reducer, splits to one 5/8" line to return pipe and one 5/8"x1/2" reducer to TLF Phosban Reactor), 1/10HP Arctica Chiller w/ Lifegard 1200(314gph) pump (3x 3/4" outputs reduced to 1/2" line between), Aquatop Titanium Heater 200w.
Lights/Powerhead: 2x Kessil A360WE w/gooseneck mounts and Spectral Controller, 2x MP40wQD.
Sand/LR: CaribSea special grade (80lbs), Real Reef Rock (60 lbs - medium)
Full tank

Sump (clear 1/2" lines L->R: chiller pump output, Chiller input, phosban reactor output, phosban reactor input from wye-split w/ TLF-supplied ball valve)
Return pump chamber overhead detail (chiller/reactor return lines have moved a bit per note below)

Return pump/phosban reactor Y-split

Chiller input/output (couldn't get the 1/2" hosing as far over the reducer as much as I would have liked)

I trimmed the chiller and phosban reactor return lines a bit since these pictures to eliminate some slack (though there is still enough to put them anywhere in the sump), otherwise this is what I've got so far.
And now for the first of many questions!
-Is the TLF stock ball-valve going to be enough to regulate flow to the phosban reactor from the wye-split? The Water Blaster is rated for mid-700's gph, Red Sea suggests 650ish gph for the return line and TLF wants between 20-100gph flow, so I think it should be enough flow overall. Just want to make sure it's not an issue having such different levels of flow in one split with only the one valve.
-Currently I have the chiller and phosban reactor return lines going to the return pump chamber, which also holds the chiller pump. Would anybody suggest a different chamber for either of the returns?
-The heater instructions say it should be both fully submerged and kept vertical but I don't think the water line will be high enough, am I ok putting it in at an angle? Also is the space between the filter socks and skimmer an OK spot for it, or would you suggest somewhere else like the overflow chamber? (Not even sure that's the right name but referring to where the display tank water comes in pre-filter sock, my terminology is still pretty weak.)
-Ended up deciding late to do my own RO/DI setup so it won't arrive until 9/5 or so, would you suggest doing a tap water leak test first or waiting for clean water? And if so would you do a full fill, or just fill the overflow chamber to check for plumbing leaks? If just filling the overflow would work I could also buy a few gallons of fresh water if that's safer then testing with tap (would be using SF tap water if anybody has experience with it). There is also a little bit of dust/debris around the edges of both the tank and sump from the ongoing assembly, so wondering if it needs a clean out fill anyway or if it will all filter in the first week of running empty to break in the skimmer.
-Any general thoughts on if the chiller and return pump placements/alignment/etc.
Keep in mind I'm in no rush so time is not a factor, just want to do this properly and maximise my odds of successfully keeping happy animals. If anything needs clarifying or you have general questions fire away, otherwise thanks again for any advice or comments!
Cheers,
DT Prime
Literal first-timer here, hoping to get some advice before I take the next big step and get my first tank wet! Still have lots of what I'm sure are basic questions, especially since aquarium equipment instructions are interesting to say the least
I'll briefly describe the current setup and throw up a few pictures, then end with some of my initial questions. PLEASE feel free to fire away with comments or questions of your own! Criticism is much appreciated since as I said this is my first go and I would desperately like to avoid any leakage, hardwood-floored 9th story lofts and water don't get along so well (not to mention the thick wool rug it sits on!)
Sump Equipment: Reefer 250 with stock sump/ATO (at least for now, would love to eventually plumb the stock ATO for a small refugium/pod farm and upgrade to a simple external DIY 5gal ATO), Vertex Omega 180i skimmer, Water Blaster 3000 return pump (3/4" output adapter with 3/4"x5/8" wye-split reducer, splits to one 5/8" line to return pipe and one 5/8"x1/2" reducer to TLF Phosban Reactor), 1/10HP Arctica Chiller w/ Lifegard 1200(314gph) pump (3x 3/4" outputs reduced to 1/2" line between), Aquatop Titanium Heater 200w.
Lights/Powerhead: 2x Kessil A360WE w/gooseneck mounts and Spectral Controller, 2x MP40wQD.
Sand/LR: CaribSea special grade (80lbs), Real Reef Rock (60 lbs - medium)
Full tank

Sump (clear 1/2" lines L->R: chiller pump output, Chiller input, phosban reactor output, phosban reactor input from wye-split w/ TLF-supplied ball valve)
Return pump chamber overhead detail (chiller/reactor return lines have moved a bit per note below)

Return pump/phosban reactor Y-split

Chiller input/output (couldn't get the 1/2" hosing as far over the reducer as much as I would have liked)

I trimmed the chiller and phosban reactor return lines a bit since these pictures to eliminate some slack (though there is still enough to put them anywhere in the sump), otherwise this is what I've got so far.
And now for the first of many questions!
-Is the TLF stock ball-valve going to be enough to regulate flow to the phosban reactor from the wye-split? The Water Blaster is rated for mid-700's gph, Red Sea suggests 650ish gph for the return line and TLF wants between 20-100gph flow, so I think it should be enough flow overall. Just want to make sure it's not an issue having such different levels of flow in one split with only the one valve.
-Currently I have the chiller and phosban reactor return lines going to the return pump chamber, which also holds the chiller pump. Would anybody suggest a different chamber for either of the returns?
-The heater instructions say it should be both fully submerged and kept vertical but I don't think the water line will be high enough, am I ok putting it in at an angle? Also is the space between the filter socks and skimmer an OK spot for it, or would you suggest somewhere else like the overflow chamber? (Not even sure that's the right name but referring to where the display tank water comes in pre-filter sock, my terminology is still pretty weak.)
-Ended up deciding late to do my own RO/DI setup so it won't arrive until 9/5 or so, would you suggest doing a tap water leak test first or waiting for clean water? And if so would you do a full fill, or just fill the overflow chamber to check for plumbing leaks? If just filling the overflow would work I could also buy a few gallons of fresh water if that's safer then testing with tap (would be using SF tap water if anybody has experience with it). There is also a little bit of dust/debris around the edges of both the tank and sump from the ongoing assembly, so wondering if it needs a clean out fill anyway or if it will all filter in the first week of running empty to break in the skimmer.
-Any general thoughts on if the chiller and return pump placements/alignment/etc.
Keep in mind I'm in no rush so time is not a factor, just want to do this properly and maximise my odds of successfully keeping happy animals. If anything needs clarifying or you have general questions fire away, otherwise thanks again for any advice or comments!
Cheers,
DT Prime
