Discussion in 'Fish Disease Treatment and Diagnosis' started by Humblefish, Jan 21, 2015.
Does them eating indicate anything and how fast can it spread?
It may have some influence on how severe the infection becomes, a healthy eating fish is probably more likely make it though the initial phase.
Not my image.
One has to understand the life cycle to effectively treat. Often the parasite is present and fish are not symptomatic, it may appear that the fish are no longer infected when in fact the parasite has simply fallen off the fish to continue it's life cycle in the substrate.
Is Paraguay a effective treatment or even dipping them for a hour effective as well
I am going to assume you mean Paraguard? Based on the ingredients I would say no it's not an effective means of eradication. If you want to eradicate the parasite than you must consider the entire system. The parasite is not merely on the fish.
How aggressively you decide treat is up to you, some hobbyist treat the outbreak and not the overall disease process, some hobbyist remove the fish and treat with copper in a quarantine tank leaving the display fallow for 72 days or more. There are other methods presented within this thread.
It's important to note that the vast majority of in tank treatments are ultimately not effective and may be detrimental so choose carefully if you go that route.
Oh I agree with, I'm not going to treat the DT at all, I have invertebrates in there. To be honest I'm not sure it is ICH. I have two a royal gramma that had some spots on head forehead. I managed to catch him and put him in QT. Right now he's on his side and lethargic. I put paraguard in the tank with him. I have a chromis who started hanging with the gramma on the bottom of the tank. He shows no signs at all of ICH. I put him in the QT as well. There is no obvious signs of illness ( other than the six or so spots on the gramma. Which I don't see now) he's on his side not breathing heavy but rear end is folded over now
The chromis is not swimming around in the QT
I'll continue to watch them both and the DT
I understand that paraguard dissipates in 24 hours? If so should I then add cupermine? Can I add any other med as well maybe prizopro
Thank you so much for your help much appreciated
The Royal Gramma is going to need PVC pipe to hide in otherwise the fish will become too stressed. Leave the lights off as well.
Unfortunately I am not schooled in mixing medications or the latest products.
An image would really help nail this down.
I am sure when @Humblefish has a moment he'll chime in.
I do have pvc in there now. He was swimming around but now back on his side. The chromis is screwed up he's by the gramma ( been following it. But is going around in circles over and over again constantly not stopped on his side
I agree with @Tahoe61; photos of the affected fish are needed to make a further determination.
This is what they look like now still moving but kinda stuck
They died but here is a pic
I lost 2 fish 1 clownfish and 1flame angel until I learned my lesson. Don't try to cure Ich. Just kill them by moving your fish to a separate tank !! You will save money rather than lose it. Great post strongly agree
I'm working on starting a new tank, my first actually, and I want to take the ich eradication path. How do you handle the CUC and corals?
From my understanding so far, I would have to put anything that goes into my tank, including CUC and corals, through either a round of TTM OR a 72 day fallow period.
Is this true or am I missing something?
Parasite tomonts can encyst to any hard surface: SPS/LPS corals, a snail or hermit shell, exoskeleton of a crustacean, etc.
The only workaround I've found to alleviate this threat is to house these animals in a fishless environment for 76 days (same as going fallow). With this in mind, I setup a simple 29 gal fishless frag tank (photos below) which I also use as a grow out tank. It doesn't need a sump or even a skimmer necessarily. Just cheap T5 (or LED) lighting, Koralia powerhead, HOB powerfilter, heater/thermometer, and a frag rack gets the job done. You could do the same using even just a 10 gal. You would really only need a rock or two for biological filtration (corals/inverts don't produce much waste), and even sand is optional.
So my quarantine supplies so far are:
2x 10 gal tank + heater + air stone + thermometer + ammonia alert
1x 30 gal tank + sponge filter + small powerhead + heater + ammonia alert
My plan was to use the two 10 gal tanks for TTM, and then the 30 gal as a post TTM observation tank, and as a hospital QT when not being used for observation. I am already starting to run out of room in my basement for fish stuff, and don't think I have room for another tank, unless it is 10 gallon.
I suppose I could add CUC and corals to my DT then hold off on fish for 76 days, but that doesn't really sound great either.
I would really prefer to avoid the 76 day fishless route if that is possible. Is it possible to do TTM on inverts and Corals? Assuming I had some T5 lights I could put the coral under during TTM.
Now that I am thinking about this, could TTM for corals and inverts be less than 4 transfers since we can make the assumption that there are no trophonts and only tomonts and theronts?
TTM works on fish because they carry the trophont stage of the parasite, and that remains 3-7 days before dropping off. So, that phase of the life cycle is somewhat predictable.
Corals/inverts, on the other hand, carry the tomont stage which has a 3 - 72 day cyst period (dependent upon strain & temperature). Due to the unpredictability of this stage TTM cannot be used; only "waiting it out" in a fishless environment will work.
Ah that makes sense. Thanks for elaborating, definitely learning as I go!
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