Ideas needed on how to make the weirs on baffles

Idoc

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New to saltwater aquariums, and I'm in the process of designing my 40g breeder sump and would like to attempt to duplicate some of the "commercial" sump designs with baffles with weir slits on top of them. I'm leaning toward 1/4" thick glass baffles. Anyone have any ideas on how to cut the weir on the top of the baffles without shattering the glass? If you have pics on how you did it, that would be awesome...I'm definitely a visual type guy!!

Or, do I even need the weir on top of the baffles? I considered egg-crate at the top of the baffle as well to create the weir...don't want to look too redneck, though, lol...but I'm not against it!
 

Diesel

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Aquacave used to have the weirs that you slide over your baffles in the sump, but I don't think they carry it any more.
You might want to send them a email.
 
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Idoc

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Aquacave used to have the weirs that you slide over your baffles in the sump, but I don't think they carry it any more.
You might want to send them a email.

Thanks! I will give them a call. I haven't seen anything like that in my searching.
 

cromag27

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Are you referring to baffle teeth? if so, they aren't necessary on sump baffles.
 
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Idoc

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Are you referring to baffle teeth? if so, they aren't necessary on sump baffles.

Commercial sumps are designed by marketers. Build what is needed and what works. You do not need those slits.

Yes, I was referring to the teeth on the baffles. Thanks cromag08 and ReeferBob...you answered my question! It will be easier to build without the teeth. I've seen some DIY posts showing to cut the corners off the top of the baffles as well in order to improve flow and reduce noise...any truth to this?
 

ReeferBob

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Yes, I was referring to the teeth on the baffles. Thanks cromag08 and ReeferBob...you answered my question! It will be easier to build without the teeth. I've seen some DIY posts showing to cut the corners off the top of the baffles as well in order to improve flow and reduce noise...any truth to this?

I designed both of my 40B sumps with a 1" drop between compartments. There is no noise from a 1" drop. Your baffles should be perfect rectangles. The sump water level is dictated by the baffle height.
 
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Idoc

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I designed both of my 40B sumps with a 1" drop between compartments. There is no noise from a 1" drop. Your baffles should be perfect rectangles. The sump water level is dictated by the baffle height.

Did you design your 40B sump with a refugium? If you have a picture of the layout that would be awesome...and baffle heights you used! I'm sketching up my ideas now on how to lay it all out. I think the most confusing part is how to layout the baffles and their heights. Some are saying to use a under->over->under final bubble trap before return pump...some use over->under->over to the return pump! If space permits, I was thinking of putting a refugium in before the final bubble trap...wanted to use the under-over-under idea to promote flow through the refugium from top to bottom rather than flow only across the top of the refugium...but this wouldn't allow for a sandbed in the refugium!
 

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Exactly. I build acrylic sumps and the extra design features of newer sumps are kinda cute, but most are completely unnecessary and you end up paying a lot for them.

Commercial sumps are designed by marketers. Build what is needed and what works. You do not need those slits.
 
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Idoc

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cromag27

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the glass baffles need to be cut smaller than the actual inside dimensions of the sump. you don't want glass-on-glass. there needs to be a thin layer of silicone in between.

Thanks! Very informative...I'll be using this technique when I finally get to building the sump...hopefully soon.
 
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Idoc

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the glass baffles need to be cut smaller than the actual inside dimensions of the sump. you don't want glass-on-glass. there needs to be a thin layer of silicone in between.

I watched ReeferBob's video he attached above. I like how he made a line of silicone to seat the glass baffles in prior to using silicone on the edges. That procedure will definitely create a nice separation and sealing between the baffle and the tank glass.
 

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john.m.cole3

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when you did your baffles...what size did you use inbetween the panes? and from bottom of glass to bottom of baffle pane?
the space below and between baffles will determine how fast the water flows through the system. I prefer to keep the gap between baffle .75-1" and the space under a baffle 1". My currrent sump was built using an under/over desgign going to the middle chamber und a over/under design leading to the return section.
 

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the space below and between baffles will determine how fast the water flows through the system. I prefer to keep the gap between baffle .75-1" and the space under a baffle 1". My currrent sump was built using an under/over desgign going to the middle chamber und a over/under design leading to the return section.
English please...sheesh
Over under vs under over?
Whats the difference?
Heheheh
 

john.m.cole3

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water enters first chamber, then there are 2 baffles 1" apart. water flows UNDER the first one then OVER the second baffle . Now we are in the middle chamber. For the water to get out it flows OVER a baffle the UNDER another baffle 1" away. Now you are in the return chamber getting shot up to the display. Better?
 
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