Just a few tips and tricks for those new to SPS and reefing....

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you where right sonny my CAL is at 420 but my alk went up to 10.4 im trying to lower it atm by holding off with the dosing of Cal for a few days. are there any ways to lower alk??

You mean stop with the ALK dosing, right?

And why is that? What is it about LNS or sugar that makes higher ALK bad?

I am running bio pellets and was curious if it is the same.

I dont know the exact reason as to why corals in ULN settings do worse with higher alk. It could be that the corals are to a point where they sensitive to certain changes and levels in the aquarium.
 

kevinpratt823

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GFO or not to GFO? I like to keep my reef as simple as possible. I never ran GFO before I do run ROX carbon. I am considering it b/c now I have a bagillion corals, my PO4 reads 0 on API (dont really know how reliable that is) but some SPS bases wont color up like the edge. I.e. my Rainbow montipora has awesome blue edge but base is brown :( and a few SPS I have the tips are awesome bright colors but the base is brown, if I frag them and give them to others the bases get color.... Could GFO help me?

Yeah, what he said. Curious to hear a response. I have over a square foot of pokerstar that is only blue at the edge.
 
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Yeah, what he said. Curious to hear a response. I have over a square foot of pokerstar that is only blue at the edge.


If the PO4 is at 0 what are you using to measure it and is there any algae growth in the tank? Unless you are using a Hanna meter you may not be getting an accurate reading. Also, if algae is present in the tank it can and will absorb the PO4 before it is able to register on a test. GFO is a good product and I would recoomend you run it if you feel that it may help. It wont hurt anything in your system and may even reduce the growth of algae and increase coloration.

If the corals are growing and doing well but lacking in color I would look at water clarity, flow, and lighting.

Are you running carbon?

How is the flow in the tank?

What is your photoperiod and lighting setup?
 

kevinpratt823

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If the PO4 is at 0 what are you using to measure it and is there any algae growth in the tank? Unless you are using a Hanna meter you may not be getting an accurate reading. Also, if algae is present in the tank it can and will absorb the PO4 before it is able to register on a test. GFO is a good product and I would recoomend you run it if you feel that it may help. It wont hurt anything in your system and may even reduce the growth of algae and increase coloration.

If the corals are growing and doing well but lacking in color I would look at water clarity, flow, and lighting.

Are you running carbon?

How is the flow in the tank?

What is your photoperiod and lighting setup?

Lots of flow in the 155, (2) MP40W, big Tunze, Koralia4, Iwaki 55 return through a SCWD
(3) 250W radiums on Lumatek digital ballast on HQI setting(overdrive) (2) 96W PC dual actinics.
Actinics 8AM-10PM, Halides 10AM-6PM
No carbon, no GFO
No PO4 meter, but I have NO algae in the system, which is 600g altogether, including another 72g DT and a large sump/prop system.
All my other corals are colored up great, the pokerstar is on a large rock at the bottom, I'm sure it would get the blue right back if it was right under a halide, but it's part of my base.
I know carbon and GFO are the next most obvious things to do, but I don't want it to be too clean, as my other DT is mostly LPS, but I guess I'll have to experiment.
Thanks
 
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You would not believe the difference a reactor full of carbon will create. Have you since added carbon?

Lots of flow in the 155, (2) MP40W, big Tunze, Koralia4, Iwaki 55 return through a SCWD
(3) 250W radiums on Lumatek digital ballast on HQI setting(overdrive) (2) 96W PC dual actinics.
Actinics 8AM-10PM, Halides 10AM-6PM
No carbon, no GFO
No PO4 meter, but I have NO algae in the system, which is 600g altogether, including another 72g DT and a large sump/prop system.
All my other corals are colored up great, the pokerstar is on a large rock at the bottom, I'm sure it would get the blue right back if it was right under a halide, but it's part of my base.
I know carbon and GFO are the next most obvious things to do, but I don't want it to be too clean, as my other DT is mostly LPS, but I guess I'll have to experiment.
Thanks
 

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usually when i would buy some large sps mini colonies they have concrete bases, but if they are unmounted, how would i attach the colony to my live rock? im kind of hesitant with the epoxy cause of the heat build up when u mix the epoxy together, will this RTN the tissue of the sps?
 
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usually when i would buy some large sps mini colonies they have concrete bases, but if they are unmounted, how would i attach the colony to my live rock? im kind of hesitant with the epoxy cause of the heat build up when u mix the epoxy together, will this RTN the tissue of the sps?

I wouldn't mess with Epoxy. If the corals are colonies them you shouldn't have to force them to into a specific spot or position. If you must have a coral in a certain spot then I recommend that you use a large clear zip tie. You simply thread the zip tie through the base of the coral and into or around the rock. I have done this countless times and after a couple months the coral completely encrusts the zip tie.

Here's a cool fact I read somewhere: Corals actually grow better when attached to a calcium plug. I need to look up the article, but it was interesting to note.
 

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Im using the brightwells system, for the mb7/reefbiofuel, how important do u think are the extra additives some bac driven systems use to help improve coloration. For example, dosing iodine, potassium, trace elements, vit C, koral color from brightwells. Do you think it will help improve coloration or a disaster waiting to happen as not many people do check potassium/iodine levels regularly compared to alk/calc/mag.

Also will your own product line include something similar to help improve sps coloration?
 
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Im using the brightwells system, for the mb7/reefbiofuel, how important do u think are the extra additives some bac driven systems use to help improve coloration. For example, dosing iodine, potassium, trace elements, vit C, koral color from brightwells. Do you think it will help improve coloration or a disaster waiting to happen as not many people do check potassium/iodine levels regularly compared to alk/calc/mag.

Also will your own product line include something similar to help improve sps coloration?

Good Question. Personally, I dont use many additives. My main additions are MB7,vodka,CA,ALK,MG,Strontium, and Lugols Solution. Trace elements are replaced with monthly water changes. Personally, I dont think think that the measurement of Iodine is all that important. But, systems vary so some may need to test to stay on the safe side. I have been dosing Lugols non stop for about 10 years now, and I have never tested for Iodine. I do feel that of every additive out there that Lugols will make the most difference in color. With Lugols, which has potassium, the blue's on the SPS in your system "pop".

We have yet to finalize out product line, but it will not have 10000000000000 different additives as the others do. :p Our line will be simple, cheap, and effective. As everyone knows, I like to keep my systems as low tech and low maintenance as possible. The products that we will be creating will be only the things that I use in my personal systems. Its time to bring some sanity back to this hobby. ;)

Sonny
 

Troylee

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Wow very cool sunny.... I just caught up with this thread and would be very interested in a line of products you come out with...;)
Right now I use the whole brightwells line and vodka... Pretty much followed your footsteps since the whole vodka/mb7 thing came out....
 

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Another tip *important* if you have never run GFO in your sps system..be careful not to run too much too quickly. A quick drop in phosphates will negatively affect the corals. You can have sps rtn on you. Start with very little at first and add a little GFO to the reactor each week. You want a slow PO4 decrease over time..as mentioned before, anything quick with sps is bad. If you continue to get algae growth after running GFO and phosphates read 0, it is probably phosphates leaching out of your rockwork..be patient, it will diminish over time with good husbandry.
 
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Sounds great sunny can't wait what will you additive line consist of??

We dont have our list finalized but it will be a very small list. We are looking at 4-6 additives, and nothing that I dont currently need myself. Everything that will be sold we only the things that you need, and not some magical potion. :p



Thanks for the tips
Anytime. :D

Wow very cool sunny.... I just caught up with this thread and would be very interested in a line of products you come out with...;)
Right now I use the whole brightwells line and vodka... Pretty much followed your footsteps since the whole vodka/mb7 thing came out....

Thanks buddy, I appreciate the support! We will likely be offering samples to select people to try out. Let me know if you are interested, and when the time comes we will send you out some of the products.

Thanks,

Sonny
 

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Good luck with everything sunny. setting up a new 65 this coming weekend. HAve a new bm doser, and everything ready to go. just trying to figure out what lights ill put on it. So might be kind of cool to try something out and monitor the progress on the new tank. I ll have to take a look at what you are going to carry.

Mojo~
 
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I'm down to try some out with the success you've had I'd trust your products
Sounds good. :D
Good luck with everything sunny. setting up a new 65 this coming weekend. HAve a new bm doser, and everything ready to go. just trying to figure out what lights ill put on it. So might be kind of cool to try something out and monitor the progress on the new tank. I ll have to take a look at what you are going to carry.

Mojo~

Lol, another tank? Send me a link to the build when you get it going. Ill be hopping around to shows so im sure we will finally meet in the near future. :D Are you thinking about going with T's at all? A nice 2' ATI would look nice over the tank, assuming that the tank is 3' long. Ill be sure to let everyone know once we have finished testing the products ourselves.

Sonny
 

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