Midas Blenny with a big white spot…

Brew12

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Therapeutic levels are lower and require the Salifert test. I forgot you are in a 10 gallon. If you can do a separate QT for the wrasse and use Cuprimine it would be more ideal. You coud be ok with the copper aid if you use the minimum therapeutic level in a seaparate tank.
I think ionic copper products like Cupramine are discouraged for use with wrasses. I think chelated copper products like Copper Aid are preferred.
 

Humblefish

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Ok so should my next step be to get another hospital tank set up to treat the wrasse? And if so should I treat with what i am using or cupramine? If I dose with cupramine I need to get another test kit right?

And since wrasse are sensitive should I try to get the tank to a different level of copper or do I just add it slower. Sorry for all the questions but I am a noob when it comes to treating sick fish.

It would be best to slowly ramp the copper up with the wrasse, as opposed to dropping him into a QT already at full therapeutic.

It has been the experience of myself and others that wrasses seem to do better in chelated copper (exs. Coppersafe, Copper Power). However, I know plenty of people who do use Cupramine on them just fine.
 

stevo01

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It would be best to slowly ramp the copper up with the wrasse, as opposed to dropping him into a QT already at full therapeutic.

It has been the experience of myself and others that wrasses seem to do better in chelated copper (exs. Coppersafe, Copper Power). However, I know plenty of people who do use Cupramine on them just fine.

Sorry about flipping that information. I should have remembered as I had cupramine on hand and you had recommended using copper safe. I had said I would buy that as well. So yeah, now I remember.
 

melypr1985

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Once I bring the level of copper up to a therapeutic level how long do I have to keep the fish in this tank before I can add them back to the display tank?

30 days straight
I forgot to mention this bit I have a melanarus wrasse that was too quick to catch so I left him in the display tank. I believe that he fought off the ich or velvet and seems to be completely happy and healthy. But if I don't take him out of the display will my clowns and Blenny get it again when I eventually add them back?
You gotta get him out of the display to run it fallow. Him being in there will keep the parasite's life cycle going and when you add the fish back they will just get it again.
30 days in copper, and 76 days fallow (fishless) in the DT is what is needed here. If even one fish is left untreated in the DT, all bets are off. Rally and other products might be fine for temporary relief, but you have to treat with copper (or Chloroquine phosphate) to break the parasite's life cycle.

+10000 ^^^
 

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Talked to a friend a few minutes ago. He treated his recent ich with Cupramine. It was a CB, melanurus, and lawnmower blenny. He lost the lawnmower dont know if from treatment, ich, or jumped. The CB and wrasse recovered 100% and his 72 days of fallow tank is complete. Said the wrasse and angel are doing great. Also said he dosed higher than suggested levels.
 
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Ok so would it be ok to dose the copper aid stuff or should I order copper safe? Also would it be ok to take one of the biological media bags out of the hob in the hospital tank and put it into the wrasse's set up? I don't have any other biological media to put in that tank if not so wouldn't that cause ammonia spikes?
 

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Ok so would it be ok to dose the copper aid stuff or should I order copper safe? Also would it be ok to take one of the biological media bags out of the hob in the hospital tank and put it into the wrasse's set up? I don't have any other biological media to put in that tank if not so wouldn't that cause ammonia spikes?
Copper Aid and Coppersafe are basically the same product. Just remember you are shooting for a 1.5ppm to 2pm level with these chelated coppers.
I normally set up my QT with filter sponges/floss and Birospira. Much cheaper than bio bags and works great. Just through the sponge away when the treatment is done.
 

stevo01

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Copper Aid and Coppersafe are basically the same product. Just remember you are shooting for a 1.5ppm to 2pm level with these chelated coppers.
I normally set up my QT with filter sponges/floss and Birospira. Much cheaper than bio bags and works great. Just through the sponge away when the treatment is done.

+1
 

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Seems like a good place for this question following along with the fallow and ich life cycle. If I purchase a fish that has been in a system that contained an inch infestation, get him put into quarantinee for 72 days with no signs of a breakout. Would it be safe to say that there is no ich on the fish or could the fish still be a carrier? Should I treat all fish no matter where they come from with copper in QT?

Thanks
 

Brew12

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Seems like a good place for this question following along with the fallow and ich life cycle. If I purchase a fish that has been in a system that contained an inch infestation, get him put into quarantinee for 72 days with no signs of a breakout. Would it be safe to say that there is no ich on the fish or could the fish still be a carrier? Should I treat all fish no matter where they come from with copper in QT?

Thanks
The fish would still be a carrier.

Fish can develop an immunity against marine Ich. This immunity prevents the ich from feeding as effectively as it would on a fish without an immunity. Because of this, you may never see the white dots because the parasite doesn't grow big enough to be readily visible. It also will produce fewer offspring when it does drop off the fish. Unless treated, the fish will almost always be a carrier. If the fish experiences a stress event, or is put in with fish that don't have this immunity, the ich can quickly thrive and reproduce.
 

melypr1985

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Ok so would it be ok to dose the copper aid stuff or should I order copper safe? Also would it be ok to take one of the biological media bags out of the hob in the hospital tank and put it into the wrasse's set up? I don't have any other biological media to put in that tank if not so wouldn't that cause ammonia spikes?

I must have missed it. Why is the wrasse in a different QT set up? Why not put him in with the others and treat all together? You can keep using the copperaid if you want to, it's going to work the same.
 

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I must have missed it. Why is the wrasse in a different QT set up? Why not put him in with the others and treat all together? You can keep using the copperaid if you want to, it's going to work the same.
The one QT already has higher levels of copper and he wouldn't have the option to slowly raise the copper level on the wrasse without using a separate tank.
 

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The one QT already has higher levels of copper and he wouldn't have the option to slowly raise the copper level on the wrasse without using a separate tank.

What are yall considering high levels of copper? The last test I saw was still pretty low. I'll be honest, I would just put him in there and get the treatment started in earnest.
 

Brew12

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What are yall considering high levels of copper? The last test I saw was still pretty low. I'll be honest, I would just put him in there and get the treatment started in earnest.
I'm guessing he came up with that from post #162. I've lost track of where copper on his QT is.
 

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What are yall considering high levels of copper? The last test I saw was still pretty low. I'll be honest, I would just put him in there and get the treatment started in earnest.

That is the suggestion I had made, as it looked like the levels were only at .25 or lower.
 

Brew12

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Yes my copper levels are barely registering on the test kit
The Melypr is right, just put him in the tank with the others and he should do fine! Save yourself a ton of extra work.
 
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