My 500 gallon reef tank. 650 gallon overall volume.

slief

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I have been asked a few times to post a thread here on my system. Some of you may recognize my system from a bunch of LA Fish Guys Episodes over the years or from my build thread on RC. Some of this will be a cut and paste from my other thread that I've updated for the last 6 years and I will consolidate a lot so this thread is immediately brought up to date.

I’ve had this tank for over 20 years and it’s been in it’s current location since 1997 during which time it’s pretty much been up continuously except for one break down for scratch removal and a redoing of the aquascape. That lasted about 2 days.

First I will start by going back to 1997 when I moved into my new home that was purchased with 3 criteria in mind. First and foremost was an ideal space for my tank. The tank is 4’ wide x 8’ long x 2’ tall. As such, finding a home that would provide a good space for such a monstrosity would be a challenge. I had this tank for a few years prior and it was setup as a mixed reef system at my rental house. Other factors that contributed to my home purchase were space for my entertainment system and a good size 3 car “Man Cave” (garage). After months of looking I found my home.

This was my first home purchase and as such, it was quite an experience. As part of the system move, the tank would be picked up by the company that built it in the first place. It needed some scratches removed and they were local and willing to turn it around in 24 hours. The system was broken down on a Thursday morning.. Escrow was set to close the following day. The live stock was transferred to Uhaul truck packed with kitty pools. Water was moved in trash cans as well as those same kitty pools. The following day around noon. Escrow closed. Within minutes of escrow closing we were in the new house with a all hacking the wall away. The plan was to convert a room that was next to my living room into an office and utilize the tank as part of the divider. It would be build in and walk around on 3 sides. To do this, the wall needed to be hacked, doors removed, bathroom door moved etc..

Here is a photo of the initial work. The wall has been cut out. Door removed to the room and stand going together.

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Since the house was new, the backyard was still dirt. I coordinated with the landscapers to arrive at the same time. I wanted my chiller in a place where it wouldn’t be heard or in the way. The best place for it was some 40’ away in the garage. The landscaper’s first order of business was digging an 18” deep ditch around the perimeter of the house which would accommodate a couple 1.5” flex PVC pipes going from the tank to the garage. This would be for the chiller plumbing.

Things progress throughout the day. The landscapers got the ditch dug, I got my flex PVC installed and the carpenter got the supports in place for the tank. You might say, things went like clockwork.. And they did!

Late that afternoon the tank company was done with their job and the tank was brought to the new house.

With the tank support complete, we were ready for the tank to be put in.

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Here we have the tank in place.

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Now the marathon began. With the tank in place and livestock in kitty pools, the plan was to get the system setup.. Since the system was setup previously at my other house and we were using the existing equipment, my goal of a same day install wasn’t out of reach.

Here is the original wet dry getting ready to go in. Most of the bio balls were replaced by live rock.

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Me in the space below the tank working on plumbing:

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slief

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Things progressed along nicely. Plumbing went as planned and it was time to get ready to stock things.. By this time it was nearing midnight.

The plan was to make a egg crate grid to keep the live rock off the ground. We also added a PVC manifold that would be fed via one of the circulation pumps. This manifold would circle the overflow under the egg crate support. It would have holes drilled in it to allow the recirculation water to pump out under the live rock in order to keep things from settling under the rocks.

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Come 2AM, the tank is done.. In a matter of 14 hours or so, the walls were hacked, stand built, tank delivered and plumbed and set up. Talk about a well orchestrated move.

These pictures don’t do much justice but I don’t really have any good ones of the results.

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The lights were setup with a winch to raise and lower them. This was done as the rest of the walls were being finished over the course of the following days.. There were a pair of 400W MH’s as well as six 4’ VHO bulbs.

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The winch for the light system is on the right side of this picture.

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Now lets fast forward a few years. The tank was in the midst of an algae bloom and I was at wits end. The decision was made to tear everything out of the tank, address some scratches and clean the system out and start over. All live stock was moved to kitty pools in the garage.

The system was broken down and my aquarium service guy brought it some people he knew to polish things out on site. It would go through several steps of wet sanding with graduating levels of sand paper followed by buffing and polishing. The end results were fantastic.

Here is one of the guys inside the tank working on the scratches.

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slief

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Once the scratches were removed it was time to work on the rocks. . Before the system was cluttered with rocks making it difficult to service. I wanted something cleaner and more open. This time around I opted for a different approach.

I purchased all new live rock. About 400-500 pounds worth and my intent was to create a more natural look. I got an idea of gluing the rocks together using pond foam I had found at a local fish store. This stuff is used for waterfalls and such. It was really messy to use but the end results were beyond expectation. I had this planned out really well. The back side of the tank is 4’ x2’. My openings on the top of the tank are 24x24. Since the back of the tank was a big wall and would be difficult to build on, I had 2 acrylic made that were each about 22” wide and 22” tall. I had the made in an “L” shape with a 6 or 8” footer at the base. This would provide support so they would be free standing and could be placed flush with the back wall. The plan was to build the back wall in 2 pieces and put them in the tank one at a time. I don’t have any pictures of this part going together but what I did was lay them on their backs on the floor side by side. Then proceeded to lay my rocks out on the panels and glued them to the panel one at a time using the foam. I was careful not to glue the panels together but was diligent in making the rock formation on the back wall look like one piece even though it was on 2 panels. Once the foam had set, the rear panels were put into place one at a time.

Then it was time to work on the rest of the aquascape. The same method was used. The rocks were hand picked and glued together using the foam. Here I am in the tank working on the rocks. Excess foam was cut away after it dried.

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Here you can see a couple rocks going together using the foam.

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A finished formation. This consists of several rocks and even today, you would never know it. It looks like one natural formation.

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With the formation done, the tank was filled and restocked with new salt water and my corals.

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Back at the end of 2009, I got tired of my insane electrical bills. They were averaging around $1100 a month. Given that most of my aquariums infrastructure was assembled in 1997 with little to no modernization, I felt it was time for a major upgrade to the tanks life support. I embarked on designing new a new sump and refugium. The plan was to install this into a system that was completely full and stocked. It needed to be as large as possible while also fitting in below the tank through a pair of 36" wide doors. I came up with the idea of building a large 38"x 30" sump and a 36"x30" refugium. My initial design was laid out on my floor using masking tape. I was able to mark off the size of the space below the tank including the door openings and went through a number if iterations until I settled on a final design. I even went through the motions of changing socks within the confines of the space to make sure that the sock changes and needed maintenance would be easy as that had to be factored in with my design.
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Another view
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After a lot of tape and several itterations of computer drawings, I finally settled on a design.
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This is the refugium.
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[/QUOTE]


From drawings to fabrication. Things progressed quickly and the guys (Kara Kreations in Simi Valley) who built my tank back in 1995 or so got to work on the sumps. Yea, I have dealt with the same local fabricator for all these years and still do to this very day.
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More progress.

Here is one of the filter sock trays. They are routed out so the sock can sit into them. They will be removable for easy access. The tray is resting against the wall of the overflow. Notice the cutouts at the top of the overflow. That will help to direct the water flow into the socks. There will also be a little rim around the tray to insure that water goes into the socks and not past them over the side of the tray.
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This is the sock tray up against the overflow. The water will flow from the tank into the overflow. The overflow will help to eliminate some of the micro bubbles resulting from the water coming out of the tank through the plumbing.
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Another view of sump 1. The trays are resting on the bottom under their overflows. The overflow on the right still needs the cut outs for the water exits.
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Lastly,
The refugium. Still needs the slots laser cut for the water to enter and exit the fuge. Also needs to be glued together.

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slief

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Fast forward a week or so and the sump and refugium were completed. When I set this up, I had bought a new Alpha 300 skimmer. I've since changed to a Supermarin 250 as of almost 2 years ago but I figured I would mention the skimmer in case you were wondering.


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Sock tray
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Removable adjustable bubble traps. Both sump and fuge exit boxes were done this way in case I need to make changes.
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The lids seal the sumps up real well. The are routed along the edges so they drop in to the top. The seams are routed so the overlap eachother. The first sumps lid is 4 pieces. Its hinged to allow easy access to the sock trays and cutout around the skimmer neck.
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Since this was going to be installed as a retrofit and my goal was to remove the old sump, redo the underside of the tank and install the new sump and refugium in the same day, I decided to get most of the sump plumbing done in advance. That way when it came time for the swap, it was a matter of removing the old sump, getting the work done below the tank, sliding the new sumps and connecting them followed by modifying the plumbing as need. The additional work below the tank included replacing the drywall, adding some sound proofing insulation, adding a pond liner to the ground below the tank that ran up the walls and also adding FRP to the walls below the tank to help add a moisture barrier and protect the drywall.

So I plumbed the sumps and return pump in advance of the day ahead.

Return pump plumbing.. The blue union ball valve attached to the "T" fitting on the return line will feed the chiller. The other end of the "T" goes to the sea swirls.
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Union Ball valves between the sump and fuge.
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Sump and fuge plumbed. The pipe that runs between the sump on the left that connects to the return pump will allow me to shut down the fuge while keeping the return pump running. It will normally remain closed but by opening one valve and closing another, I can isolate the fuge from the system if I need to. I can only see doing that for maintenance or if I have too much flow through the fuge, I can draw from both.
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Sump and fuge plumbed with recirc pump in its future location.
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[/QUOTE]
 
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Then came the big day. Feb 24th 2010.

I woke up at 5AM. Started tearing things out at 5:30.
Here are a couple shots of what was coming out.. A real mess after 13 years in there.
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By 7AM, everything was out including the inside drywall.

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At 7:30 my carpinter arrived.. We had to remove some drywall on the outside so things can air out.

Insulation going in.

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Sound proof drywall going in..
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9:10AM. The drywall was almost done. Next will be the FRP and pond liner for the floor..


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By this point were were recording this for an LA Fish Guys episode but here are some pictures after the install was complete adn the tank was back up and running that same evening.
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Here is an LA Fish Guys episode explaining the sump and refugium layout in detail. It is mentioned in the beginning of this video that I was going though an ich outbreak. That outbreak was brought on by a large water change with water that was too cold. It resulted in a sudden and large temp change and the outbreak occurred a few days later. It was the one and only time I had do deal with that in all my years of being in this hobby. My friend Jim and I didn't see eye to eye on the treatment method. I didn't want to use copper as it would have prevented my tank from being a reef again and given the nature of my aquascape, disassembling the tank to catch and remove the fish was really impossible. I also didn't have a QT system to house all those fish. Instead I tried every reef safe remedy from Kick Ich to Medic to garlic etc in vein and learned the hard way that there is no such thing as a reef safe ich remedy. I lost a good percentage of my fish but in the end, I have a great reef tank stocked with a lot of healthy and thriving fish. As such, as much as it pained me to see the fish suffer, I am happy with where I am now 6 years later.
Anyhow, here is a video discussing the sump layout.


Here is a video covering the marathon sump swap that day.
 
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slief

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Here are some pics of the reactor install. They are mounted to the supporting joists of the tank above the sumps. They are controlled by gate valves and powered from a leg off the return pump. T

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The original Hammerhead return pump and Dart closed loop pump.

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Fast forward a month or so.
I got my UV installed. It was a breeze. Just had to cut a chunk out of the recirc return pipe and glue in the Aqua UV unions. The way I have it set up will make maintenance a easy. The wipers are right in front when the underside door is open.

Here is the UV. I mounted the UV ballasts on pipe hangers. I am pretty happy with the way it turned out.
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[/QUOTE]

As part of the upgrade, I eliminated a bunch of closed loop external pumps. When I did so, I came up with a unique way to use those old bulk heads to augment my flow. I had planned on replacing the closed loops with much more efficient power heads and settled on two Tunze 6205's and a 6105 that would be controlled by my Apex. I decided to make custom mounts so they could be connected to my old closed loop bulk heads and run the wires through the mounts and out the back of the tank through the old plumbing. I capped the bulkheads off inside the tank so water couldn't drain through them. Then cut the PVC on the back side of the tank and rotated the plumbing so that the stubs from the old lines were above the water line. This would provide a conduit for the tunze cables to exit the tank. I had to desolder the little control boxes off the ends of the Tunze cables and reconnect them when I was done but I'm great with a solder iron so it was a simple task.
I had been contemplating controllable pumps for some time. Contemplation is over.. Tunze two 6205's will replace one Koralia 1200 and one 1400. These mounts will allow me mount them to the existing bulkheads and route the wires out of the back of the tank. They will work within the frame work of my back wall aquascape and not be obtrusive as my back wall is built around these bulk heads.

They were made from PVC fittings which I painted using Krylon paint. No glue used. They slip together which will allow me to adjust things to get the pumps in optimal placement. I removed the Tunze clamp from the magnet and used a nylon nut and bolt to hold the pump clamp to my PVC contraption. If you pay close attention, you will notice that I desoldered a little box at the end of the Tunze cable to get the wires through my mount. Shhhhh! :mixed:
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This is how the wires exit the back side of the tank.
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This is the 6105 mounted to locline on my overflow.
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Next step was to come up with space for new RODI and mixing tanks. I acquired a pair of 100 gallon vertical holding tanks from a friend who owns a local fish store and ordered a Tough Shed from Home Depot. That was to be my new life support shed complete with my Spectrapure UHE 1:1 100 GPD RODI, my mixing tank ATO pump and ultimate my Genesis Renew AWC. I drilled holes through the wall of my home and used 1.5" pvc to serve as conduit for the electrical and water lines that go between the shed and the tank. I also have a waste water drain setup in the shed that ties into one of the drain lines in my patio slab for the roof gutters. That is where the AWC waste water drains

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This is the shed almost 6 years later. Renew in place, calcium reactor etc.
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Fast forward 12 months and it's now 2011 and time for the 2nd phase of my upgade which is the migration to LED's. I was really torn on which lights to go with but worked a very amicable deal out with Reef Tech who was just entering the market with their Promitheus reef lighting. My original lights were a pair of 400 watt metal halides and 8 VHO florescent lights. In my effort to reduce my power usage, the switch to LED's seemed prudent as I had already reduced my electric bill substantially just by the pump swap.


For reference, here is my old light rack. It raises and lowers via an electric winch. The winch will be replaced with a linear or track actuator which will be much more quiet and practical.

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Here is the new rack coming together. The wheels on the lower edge of the rack will slide up and down in a track on the wall. They swivel and are not facing the correct orientation in these photos. The keep the light rack centered so it doesn't swing forward or back when its being raised or lowered. There will be a matching set of wheels at the other end as well. I will add a spring to the shaft on that wheel mount so it stays extended keeping constant contact with the track but allows for some forgivness while moving.

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I made it so it can come apart in the center with the 4 shorter aluminum channels being removable. This allowed me to get it in above the tank through the doors.

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Onto the light rack install.
Got up early that morning and made a run to Home Depot to get some hardware, FRP and a bunch of other stuff. Jim showed up at 10AM video camera in hand and we set out on a path of destruction. First thing I had to do was temporarily remove the ozone reactor from the closet. Then the hallides came out. Next I got my sawzall and cut the old light rack out.. I cut the old light rack wire ropes out, removed all the old pulleys and everything else associated with the light rack. At that point there was no turning back. I cut some FRP for the inside of the light soffet above the tank and lined the walls with it. Then came installing the new pulleys and new wire ropes.. What a pain in the rear end that was. All the new stainless cables that suspend the light rack are crimped together.

Once I had the new pulleys and cables hanging we put the light rack in. It had to go in in two pieces but that was the plan as it had to fit through the access doors which are only 38" diagonal. It was a tight fit but the light rack went in and together without a hitch. I hung the lights and mounted up an EB4 for power on the rack.

These pics were taken before I mounted the power, Apex lunar sims and other stuff to the rack.
The light rack from the underside.
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This is how I mounted the center fixtures so they could be tilted inwards.
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Top side view
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This is where all the cables come together in the closet at the winch.
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Above the winch
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This is where all the wires and power go to on the light rack.
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A couple shots of the tank after the Reef Techs were installed.


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Fast forward a handful of months (late 2013) and I decided I wanted to add a display refugium. I got a great deal that I couldn't pass up on a 24x24x12" 30 gallon cube that fit the build. It "was" fed by a line from my manifold and drains back to the return section of my below tank refugium.

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Temporary lighting using a borrowed Kessil 350,
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A few months later I grew tired of the Alpha 300's consistency issues. It was a great skimmer but the neck diameter on those skimmers is way to large and they tend to get inconsistent when the dissolved organics are lower. I opted to switch to a Bubble King Supermarin with the RD3 pump. After nearly 2 years of running this skimmer I couldn't be happier. After owning Beckett Skimmers, down drafts, mezzei injected skimmers, Euro Reefs, Reef Octopus skimmers, German Made Klase skimmers etc, this is by far my favorite skimmer. I think the only thing I would trade it for would be a Bubble King Deluxe 300.
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In it's new home with my AquaDriver Skim Clean self cleaning head with built in wash down.
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It's proven to be an absolute beast of a skimmer.
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In August of 2014, I decided it was time for another light upgrade. While my corals were doing great under the Reef Techs, I just felt it was time for a change. I had a buyer for my Reef Techs and wanted new lights that could be controlled by my Apex. I also wanted that metal halide shimmer and after much deliberation I chose to go with Kessil 360WE's. I decided I was going to fabricate some custom articulating mounts so they could be bolted directly to my light rack and be aimed where I needed them to maximize coverage while eliminating shadowing.

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Here is the pile of hardware and a Kessil. The aluminum pieces are to mount the articulating mount to the light rack. You can also see the components of the articulating mount.
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These are the bottom plates with the PEM nuts installed as well as the top plates which together will sandwich the light rack in between the mounts allowing me to slide the light back and forth on the rack in addition to being able to angle each light as needed to get the best coverage for any given area in my tank.
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All the pieces assembled. The aluminum extrusion between the aluminum clamp is the material that my light rack is made out of.
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These are with the rack elevated. The little tiny square boxes attached to the rack are my lunar simulator LED's. The fans are for evaporative cooling.
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These are with the rack lowered. Lights are about 8-9' off the water.
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Here is my lighting graph showing my schedule and the color and intensity throughout the day. This graph is from Fusion. The orange line represents the intensity and the blue line represents the color change.

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Some video shot just after the install. This one shows half the tank with Kessil and the other half with the Reef Techs. I used my par meter to match the par then set the intensity so the par was about 10% less than the Reef Techs. I matched the color via my eyes. That gave me a starting point and my corals responded wonderfully.



Now the full tank with Kessils
 

A worm with high fashion and practical utility: Have you ever kept feather dusters in your reef aquarium?

  • I currently have feather dusters in my tank.

    Votes: 78 38.0%
  • Not currently, but I have had feather dusters in my tank in the past.

    Votes: 69 33.7%
  • I have not had feather dusters, but I hope to in the future.

    Votes: 26 12.7%
  • I have no plans to have feather dusters in my tank.

    Votes: 30 14.6%
  • Other.

    Votes: 2 1.0%
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