New Set Up

KPeak12

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Hey Everyone,
I am going to be upgrading my current 75 gallon reef tank to a 180 gallon reef. I know most of what I have will not be able to use on the 180. I need some help on what sizes of...protein skimmer, return pump(I will be setting up my sump in the basement so the return will be traveling about 7ft back to the tank), sump/refugium, lighting and anything else you can help out with. Websites with the best deals and equipment brands to stay away from or to use. Currently, I use Eshopps for my skimmer, ATO and sump. If it matters, the 180 is a Prefecto with the returns in the corner. Thanks in advance for any ideas/help.
 

mkutsch

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Yikes, 7 ft? I have never heard of a return pump able to push that far...course, I only do nano tanks and picos, so...
Anyway, for the lighting, what type of corals? You're probably gonna want to go with halides for sps.
 

jsker

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#reefsquad lets help out please
 

Maritimer

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You'll probably want to look at an external, rather than in-the-water sort of return pump. I don't know them as well as I probably should, but Iwaki comes highly recommended. That type of pump should be better able to handle the head pressure generated.

With your sump in the basement, you'll have plenty of room to play - either a big tank or a Rubbermaid horse trough come to mind . . . You can use something as small as a 40-Breeder - that's what I'm using on my 220 gallon build. IIRC, the 180 shares the same 72 x 24" footprint - but if you have the option to go bigger, why not take it?

~Bruce
 

dbl

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I agree with Bruce in going with the largest sump possible. If it's in the basement, and cosmetics are not as important, your options are even greater. If in fact the sump is in the basement, it would seem like your return would be greater than 7' away, but we don't know the details. There are pumps that can handle far greater distances but we'll need some specifics before recommendations.
 
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120reefkeeper

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IMG_0022.GIF
I once had a system setup like this. I had my sump in the basement on a stand just like a normal tank. It took about 3 feet of that would be head pressure out of the way and I was left with 4 feet of vertical height to deal with. I ended up using a mag drive pump.

You can see with this chart that you'll probably want to go with either a mag 9.5 or mag 12.

You could do what I did and split the returns and run 2 pumps , one pump for each side . I had some pretty good flow :);)
 

pdt7361

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A lot of this will depend upon your budget and your preferences. A Vectra L1 would be able to handle that distance. For flow in the tank you have lots of options....sea swirls, MP40, WAV, or some of the Jebao powerheads. Lighting again will be your preference but I'd do some LEDs and T5s.
I'm actually working on putting together my 180...my full equipment list can be seen here:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/pauls-new-180-gallon-system-advise-needed.289898/

If you have a budget you want to stay in, let us know so we can help you stick to it. :)
 

Mikemccafe

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I also have my sump in the basement, I had an Iwaki that I bought used, and it lasted 20 years, still work but it broke a fin in it's impeller. I finally replaced figuring I had pressed my luck long enough
 

Flippers4pups

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7' from basement sump up to first floor DT? No problem. Iwaki, Pan World, Blue line.... are bullet proof, to name a few will do the job. There are head loss calculators, http://www.reefcentral.com/index.php/head-loss-calculator
that will help you determine the proper pump size needed. 3x-5x a DT volume in turn over in an hour is typical. I keep mine at 3x.
 
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saltyfilmfolks

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Lets talk Lights. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Lol

The power bill is the big one to consider. If you can or already are putting in a plan to control heat, metal halide and T5 are a viable option. Personally I don't think Ill ever be able run without an led suppliment again. Not for growth color etc, but the controll over seeing the tank when I want to see it. Its cool in the AM to see the fish and coral wake up and see them settle in for bed. There's almost no light at this point.
When we talk led alone is purely a budget and color preference issue IMO. LED each have thier own unique color and Id really encourage seeing as many as you can in person before dropping a lot of cash on them.
For t5 ATI or Giesemann, BMW or Mercedes. Both have hybrids now. And yes there's some other good ones out there.

The other consideration is choosing a light is thew ability to provide enough power AND spread for the tank. Spread is a big deal on led and can be a trick to get it right. Power is much easier nowadays in led.
 

glb

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Lets talk Lights. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Lol

The power bill is the big one to consider. If you can or already are putting in a plan to control heat, metal halide and T5 are a viable option. Personally I don't think Ill ever be able run without an led suppliment again. Not for growth color etc, but the controll over seeing the tank when I want to see it. Its cool in the AM to see the fish and coral wake up and see them settle in for bed. There's almost no light at this point.
When we talk led alone is purely a budget and color preference issue IMO. LED each have thier own unique color and Id really encourage seeing as many as you can in person before dropping a lot of cash on them.
For t5 ATI or Giesemann, BMW or Mercedes. Both have hybrids now. And yes there's some other good ones out there.

The other consideration is choosing a light is thew ability to provide enough power AND spread for the tank. Spread is a big deal on led and can be a trick to get it right. Power is much easier nowadays in led.
Don't want to hijack, but how hot are T-5's?
 

saltyfilmfolks

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Don't want to hijack, but how hot are T-5's?
Spoke to ATI. In their fixtures the temp is maintained at 180f. If you put an instant read next to one a few inches away in a retro its around that or highter, if not vented it naturally get higher.. When I tested my ai sol, inside the led side it was 120.
 

Frop

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Don't want to hijack, but how hot are T-5's?

Ya so I saw a thing that says 1 watt = 3.41 btu per hour (probably doesn't apply to LEDs).
So figure how many watts and you can calculate the BTU. Then you can figure how many ton AC unit you have (2ton = 24000BTU) and can figure how to cancel the heat.
 

glb

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Spoke to ATI. In their fixtures the temp is maintained at 180f. If you put an instant read next to one a few inches away in a retro its around that or highter, if not vented it naturally get higher.. When I tested my ai sol, inside the led side it was 120.
How much does that heat up a room?
 

Frop

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How much does that heat up a room?

Assuming it was perfect insulation and no AC my guess would be up to 180f. But then you have to factor in the wall insulation and AC. Where you'd lose the heat.

Easiest way to do it would be to change it into BTU and see how fast it would heat the cubic area assuming it was all air I guess.. outside temperature would play a roll as it would either cool or heat your house through the walls depending on the temperature difference and the R value which resist the heat change. This isn't my field of work.
 

saltyfilmfolks

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How much does that heat up a room?
Im luck to be in san diego. its 77 out side and 77 inside. My tank with no light ran a 4 degrees above room temp(pump only), with no fan in the canopy the tank would do 82. the top of the canopy was 90... SO some...
 

Frop

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Im luck to be in san diego. its 77 out side and 77 inside. My tank with no light ran a 4 degrees above room temp(pump only), with no fan in the canopy the tank would do 82. the top of the canopy was 90... SO some...

We get 110-120 in summer. I keep two rooms closed because poor insulation. They get about 84 meanwhile the other rooms are 77-80. If I try to cool it too much the AC stops.
 
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KPeak12

KPeak12

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I agree with Bruce in going with the largest sump possible. If it's in the basement, and cosmetics are not as important, your options are even greater. If in fact the sump is in the basement, it would seem like your return would be greater than 7' away, but we don't know the details. There are pumps that can handle far greater distances but we'll need some specifics before recommendations.
I don't know exact measurements as of yet. I pick up my tank this coming Friday, and have yet to build the stand. Once I get those together I will gets them to you. Thx for the reply.
 
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KPeak12

KPeak12

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These are the lights I am looking at...thoughts?

72" Metal Halide + T5 1070W
This MH + T5 72” is THE reefer’s light. A space saving combo unit combines 3x 250W HQI metal halide, 4x 80W Actinic Blue T5 HO lamps, and 6x Bluemoon LED into one single unit. This unit also features external HQI controller, heavy duty cooling fan, mounting legs, and anodized aluminum housing. Separate power cords for MH and T5. Multiple power switches for different functions.
Features:
  • Dimensions - 71.50” x 13.75” x 3.00”
  • Dimensions w/brackets - 72.00” x 17.25” x 6.00”
  • Supports 3x 250W Metal Halide DE FC2 lamps
  • Supports 4x 80W T5 High Output (HO) lamps
  • Supports 6x dual Bluemoon LED
  • 7x Power Switch (3x MH, 2x T5, 1x LED, 1x Fan)
  • 5x Power Cord (3x MH, 1x T5, 1x LED)
  • External HQI controllers
  • Internal T5 HO fluorescent ballasts
  • Non-corrosive powder coated aluminum housing
  • Heavy duty cooling fan
  • Glass splash guard
  • Mounting legs
  • Standard T5 sockets
  • Double Ended FC2 HQI sockets
  • Highly polished reflector
  • CE Certified
Listing includes:
  • 1x MH/T5 fixture and all ballasts
  • 1x Mounting Leg Set
  • 3x MH 250W 15000K
  • 4x 80W T5 Actinic Blue
  • 6x Dual LED
 

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