OOOPS! acrylic measured wrong...

Tabasco1 · Apr 7, 2011

hahaha. OOPS! I am making a custom acrylic sump and found a local (as in 2hrs away) shop that cut to order so I called in my order. Was originally planning on cutting the whole thing, but they didn't charge extra for it and made me feel comfortable that they would be able to do so with an acceptable variance.

SO, I measure the inside of my stand... with the door open and didn't measure at the hardware, which is causing the issue by 1/2". SO what I am wondering is the best way to shave 1/2" from the length. There are now 3 pieces that have to be shorted. Everything else is money.

I have access to a table saw and a dremel.

Will I have to purchase a super spendy blade? Is there something that I can do with the dremel?

I feel like a bit of an butt. I totally know better and the old addage measuer 2x (or4) and cut 1x. But it is kindof funny.

TyreeUM · Apr 7, 2011

how thick is the acrylic? if its like 4mm or so you can etch it and snap off the 1/2 inch if your careful...any thicker I would suggest using a saw with a really fine tooth - cut at a little less than 1/2 inch though if you are going to use a saw cause it sometimes melts a little bit on the edge and you will need to sand it off.

Harpo · Apr 7, 2011

This may be a dumb question but can you remove the hardware?

David

Tabasco1 · Apr 7, 2011

Tyree-the acrylic is 3/8" cast... would that be too thick to etch and break off? That could be doable. I am a great sander

Harpo-I wish it were that easy... hmmm, I will check and see it that is possible, but I don't think so. The door is glass and it is the hard ware at the bottom and I think it will need to stay on.

Troylee · Apr 7, 2011

You need a router!!!! A router is the only tool and number 1 tool for doing acrylic..... If it were me I would just glue one end inside a half inch and come back when I was done with the project and route that 1/2" over hang off this way you have a nice guide for the bearing to follow....

Tabasco1 · Apr 7, 2011

Would one like this work? I have never used one before want to make sure I know what I am getting into.

Linksys Wireless G Broadband Router - WRT54GL at The Home Depot

EliteReefs · Apr 7, 2011

send a picture of your stand and maybe we could help you find another way. MY making the stand fit the sump would be less work.

the way i read it is if you took off the doors and hardware the sump would fit right? if thats the case then do that and find new hardware to put them back on

TyreeUM · Apr 7, 2011

I have never etched and snapped acrylic that thick...I wouldn't risk it

Troylee · Apr 7, 2011

you cant glue a scored and snapped edge for squat either.....

Troylee · Apr 7, 2011

Tabasco1 said:
Would one like this work? I have never used one before want to make sure I know what I am getting into.

Linksys Wireless G Broadband Router - WRT54GL at The Home Depot

haha.....
Amazon.com: Porter-Cable 690LR 11 Amp Fixed-Base Router: Home Improvement

Tabasco1 · Apr 7, 2011

That would probably work much better.

I couldn't resist when that came up in my search.

So a router would be the best bet? You don't think I could score it and snap it? What about just a rough saw cut and then ALOT of sanding?

It was pretty sweet, there were a couple laser cut sheets that were full of holes that were out for demo purposes and I was like... uh, those would be perfect for filter plates. They sold em to me for $5.

Troylee · Apr 7, 2011

honestly no..... sanding, rounds the edges and makes a lousy gluing surface it will allow air to enter the joint and cause bubbles those bubbles are voids "weak spots".....the laser cut sheets are no good either sorry...

i mean they will work but the heat from the laser cut causes it to temper the acrylic this will cause crazing while gluing it "small cracks" millions of them not only is it unsightly but very weak..... arrrrrrr you did the research on the tank i feel you need a little more on the acrylic... no pun intended im here to help...

lmk what you need....

Tabasco1 · Apr 7, 2011

ahh, I knew it would be a learning process. I knew I measured to quickly because i knew I would be down in Denver yesterday and had to get them the info quickly. I was hoping to be lucky. Should have known better on that one hahahah. At least it is not too small! Can't fix that!

I think the plates will be fine. I am not glueing them to anything, they are going to sit on rails so that I can remove and clean them.

Thanks for the info.

fsu1dolfan · Apr 7, 2011

Troylee said:
You need a router!!!! A router is the only tool and number 1 tool for doing acrylic..... If it were me I would just glue one end inside a half inch and come back when I was done with the project and route that 1/2" over hang off this way you have a nice guide for the bearing to follow....

Sounds like a reasonable way to go about it. Figured the Acrylic KING would have a good answer...

Maybe you should just send it to Troy and have him fix it LOL :wink:

Tabasco1 · Apr 7, 2011

Actually, I don't think I can do that because the way the pieces fit together. The short end pieces extend to the edge of the bottom and the longer pieces fit inside those so I couldnt just move the "end" in a 1/2" inch. I am pretty sure they need to be cut first.

But, it just might be less $ to buy a router than to drive back to Denver and get them recut. ugh.

CJO · Apr 8, 2011

Sucks to hear that happened. My personal thought is if you have an excuse to get a tool, do it! I guess that's a guy's mentality, but I've usually found a use for the tool later on and a router is a very useful tool to own.

CJ

Tabasco1 · Apr 8, 2011

I think it would actually be fun to have a router. That said, we live in a condo and storage space is at a premium. We have quite a few toys which doesn't leave alot of room for tools haha. We do have the basics though. LUCKILY, one of my good friends who does have space for tools has a router that I can use!

Would love to know what bit I need to get or would be best for this.

Thoughts?