Possibly zoa fungus-help

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ahiggins

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I've noticed that lock tite is way better than the reef glue. I think I'll go back to that one.
It only needed a drop rather than a smudge lol
I think crap gets trapped between the glue and the tissue that's not coming out. Maybe that's what is causing it.
 

A. grandis

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No, the glue isn't the cause, but the excessive glue "burns" them up and they get extra stress from it after the fragging.
Yeap, the Loctite is what I aways use. Get the gel one with the blue cap, grey bottle.
e1400240-516f-44b2-8803-ae64f4484e41_1000.jpg

http://www.homedepot.com/s/lictite%20super%20glue%20gel?NCNI-5

Aloha,
Grandis.
 
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That's exactly what I used to use!
I'll go back and see if that makes a difference. (Can always use the other for stray aiptasia lol)
 

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Could it be brown jelly disease?

I don't think saltwater fish get fungal infections...so I am wondering if that would be true for corals also?
 
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I was under the impression that brown jelly is an lps thing, not a zoa thing.
Also, fish can get fungal infections.
 

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I was under the impression that brown jelly is an lps thing, not a zoa thing.
Also, fish can get fungal infections.

Yep, looks like I am mistaken on brown jelly. Looks like people do get something that looks like brown jelly on their zoas, but most say that it is a bacterial infection and not true brown jelly like on LPS.

Hmmm, will have to research the fungal thing more. Looking back through post in the fish disease forum, the advice given is that saltwater fish do not get fungal infections, it is a freshwater fish disease. Just thought if that were true, and the same applied for corals, it might at least eliminate one possible cause.

Hope you are able to figure out the cause quickly and they all recover!
 

A. grandis

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There are marine fungus and some species attack fishes.
Brown Jelly can infect zoanthids, yes. I've never had a problem with Brown Jelly on my zoas though.
It normally attacks damaged corals and zoa colonies and it is apparently caused primary by bacteria and secondarily with protozoans when water temperature is relatively high. I hardly hear people talking about Brown Jelly lately. I remember in the mid 90's when the magazines used to have articles on it. The treatment for hard corals was done with fresh water for a minut or 2, and for zoas and soft corals I think was done with antibiotics back then.
That is not brown Jelly, thank God.
Brown Jelly consumes the colonies very, very fast!!!
Grandis.
 
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:)
If I start seeing it on the mother colonies...would physical removal be enough or do I need to get some iodine?
 
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So I found another frag that's starting to have the same effect. not so fresh cut one. I was able to take a pic. There's two polyps being affected, the two tightly closed ones. And they're hard at the top. (The two that look like they have orange on them)
This is a Green Bay packer type. Green on skirts, orange center.

IMG_3993.JPG
 
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Lights just came on so the rest of the frag isn't open yet.
 
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Man... @A. grandis I've got a cat eye paly now exhibiting the same issue and it's not a "new frag".
image.jpg
 

A. grandis

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You're luck they are on plugs.
You can use Lugo'ls solution for bacteria.
I've also used iodine tincture, but some people say Lugol's is safer (?).
You can try Kent Marine Lugol's following the directions. They sell at Marine Depot and Walmart.
Use a small container so you don't have to add too much of Lugol's. The percentage will be less.
Your polyps aren't looking too bad though.

Good luck!

Grandis.
 
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I ordered some iodine to do the dip. Cross your fingers for me!!!
I can see how people lose interest when things start going wrong
 

A. grandis

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Yeah, but the bacterial infections are kinda normal when you frag them.
The best is to prevent. They need to be dipped right after fragged.
You could make sure your temperature isn't too high. I keep it at 78°F.
I could be wrong but I don't think you'll loose those polyps.
Not a big deal there.
Just take your time and don't play too much with them.
I'm assuming that everything else in the system is running fine: light, flow, filtration..
Do you have any GFO? No good. Avoid too much carbon too. Can use carbon, but not too much...
Would be good to check the params: alk, salinity, Ca, Mg, pH...
Make they're not too high and so on...
Grandis.
 
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I did check parameters today-there pretty much the same as original post. The calcium went down by 20 but that could have been testing error.
Would an iodine dip after fragging be ok? Or is that too harsh?
Also, the ones I dipped in furan 2, can I dip them with the others when I get the iodine in 2 days?
All I run are filter pads, no gfo or carbon. I have extra chemipure elite but haven't used it in the frag tank.
I'm going to be getting the maxspect gyre here in a few days as well. That will drastically improve my flow.

Thanks again, this has been a huge help!
 

A. grandis

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I'm glad you're getting the Gyre. I heard good things about it.
Be careful with the parts when you clean it. They are fragile.

If by the time you get the Logol's in the mail those polyps aren't looking 100% you can dip them too!
Follow the directions. No worries...
The traditional Lugol's solution is very good!

How's your magnesium? Make sure it's not too high! 1320 - 1360.

Grandis.
 
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I can't thank you enough for all the info! I had no idea about the bacterial side of things.
I'll keep you updated, I'm sure I'll have more questions lol
 

A. grandis

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No problem, check the Mg... some times the polyps are affected by high Mg and close up or develop marks...
Also with alk too high.
Alk 9 with Ca 420 would be good to have Mg around 1360 max.
I'm glad to help.
Aloha,
Grandis.
 

A. grandis

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You're welcome again!
Great! Hope all to be fine!!
Grandis.
 

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