Return pump is pumping up water faster than HOB Overflow is delivering

[trimma0426]

So I have an IM 20 Fusion tank with a Eshoppes nano overflow that drops into a 20 gallon high sump. It only has 1 real "baffle" which is a piece of eggcrate running the height of the sump with a piece of glass siliconed onto the bottom half of the eggcrate.

The problem is that the return pump (Sicce Syncra 2.0 turned to lowest flow) is pumping up water at a slightly higher rate than the return area can refill with water. So after running for a minute or so, the pump is running close to dry. Is there anything I can do to reduce the flow even more now that it is all plumbed already with solvent?

The eshoppes nano is a 3/4" fitting and the Syncra pump is 1/2" so I thought I would be fine...guess not.

Worst case I guess I can crack the glass a little to allow more water through to the return area?

 

[TheEngineer]

The issue isn't flow rate, from the way you are describing it. You need more water in your tank. The return chamber where the pump sits is the only place the water level will change. That's where most people place their ATO sensor to they can add water when it evaporates out.

 

[trimma0426]

The issue isn't flow rate, from the way you are describing it. You need more water in your tank. The return chamber where the pump sits is the only place the water level will change. That's where most people place their ATO sensor to they can add water when it evaporates out.

Thanks, thats good to know. My RODI unit takes forever to fill up a 5 gallon bucket so hopefully I will be able to add more water and test it out tonight. Right now the standing water level is at the exact height of the glass part of my baffle.

 

[TheEngineer]

That tank probably only needs maybe a gallon of water and you'd probably be fine.

 

[trimma0426]

Well I added about 1.5 gallons. I thought the sump level looked good, and then while i was watching the sump, I neglected to watch the tank and it started to overflow.

So its pumping too much water back into the tank I believe, quicker than the HOB overflow can keep up with.

 

[Roy 9121]

You can put a gate valve in the line between the pump and your tank and adjust it that way. But that may not be very good for your pump. Or you could get a bigger over flow.

 

[Fishgeek88]

You should probably put a valve on the return pump...although that box should be able to handle that pump.

 

[mfinn]

Many people use a valve on the out flow ( never the suction side) of the pump. Most just use a ball valve. They are cheaper and easier to find. If you go to a big box store, test every one they have in the size you want to see which one turns the easiest. I like the black handled ball valves at Lowes. They seem to be easier to turn.
You can safely add a valve to a pump. It's like adding more head pressure.

 

[TheEngineer]

Well I added about 1.5 gallons. I thought the sump level looked good, and then while i was watching the sump, I neglected to watch the tank and it started to overflow.

So its pumping too much water back into the tank I believe, quicker than the HOB overflow can keep up with.

OK, now you need to match the return rate to the drain rate. You have/had two issues at once. Looking online, the flow rate of that overflow is 200gph. Your pump is rated for over 500gph at 0 head height. With it turned down all the way and with the head height of your system, my guess is you are probably just over 200 gph now. As others have said, you can simply add a valve to add back pressure (increases head height) to slow the pump down. I personally prefer to divert water instead of creating back pressure. I used to tee off the return flow back to the first chamber of the sump. It essentially creates longer contact times for your water to be filtered there.

 

[trimma0426]

Thanks,
Guess Its a good thing I added a union somewhere on the outflow piping where I cant reall

OK, now you need to match the return rate to the drain rate. You have/had two issues at once. Looking online, the flow rate of that overflow is 200gph. Your pump is rated for over 500gph at 0 head height. With it turned down all the way and with the head height of your system, my guess is you are probably just over 200 gph now. As others have said, you can simply add a valve to add back pressure (increases head height) to slow the pump down. I personally prefer to divert water instead of creating back pressure. I used to tee off the return flow back to the first chamber of the sump. It essentially creates longer contact times for your water to be filtered there.

I like the idea of a T diverter but my worry is that that won't be as easy to control the flow as a ball valve. I don't want to keep redoing the plumbing, so I think if I go with the valve, at least I can be assured that I can control the exact flow that I need

 

[TheEngineer]

Sorry, I should have been clearer...

You still have a valve. The valve controls how much water goes back into the sump. If you open the valve completely, all of the water from the pump will circulate in the sump. If you close it all the way, all of the water will go up to the tank. Opening the valve reduces the amount of head pressure your pump can produce and water gets diverted back into the sump. You dial it in just the same as you would with a valve right on the output controlling the flow.

 

[cymonous]

Should have never added more saltwater. Add the ball valve to the return pump and slowly close it off till your sump water levels out and stays constant for 5 minutes. If the water level is too high for your liking, remove some of the saltwater. If you don't remove some of the saltwater to the level you want it to be, your salinity will increase as the water evaporates.