sochting oxidator advice needed please

johnthehermit

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I know there are some people here that use oxidators and I would like a bit of advice please.
I have a 4x2x2ft DT with a sump 50"x18"x17". the sump holds about 25 litres of siporax, socks and Deltec sc 1456 skimmer plus vectra M1 return and reactors for rowaphos and carbon. Volume of DT is 384 litres before displacement and has 1-1 1/2 inches of seaflor special grade sand, a few bits of live rock and the rest is pukani/reefbones. Total volume before displacement of the sump is 130 litres. I'm probably going to go fish only so no corals. At present it holds some sailfin mollies and my small royal gramma. When I get some more fish the mollies will be going. I have a oxidator A and use 6% hydrogen peroxide at present. Would this be enough for my system, or should I get another one in the sump or use a higher percentage peroxide?
Thanks
John
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Diesel

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BUMP!!















#reefsquad
 

jazzmik

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Sorry don't mean to hijack your thread but if anyone knows where to even pick one of these up (A model) let me know.
I've been trying to find a place that even sells/stocks them.... can't.
 

jazzmik

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Hey John,

Florida... just did some searching on old threads and found 'the cultured reef' in one of the posts. Contacted guy and he said he has them in stock so just ordered one from his site.

thanks
 

atoll

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Hi,
Just seen your thread,
I introduced Oxydatoes for use in marine aquaria to the UK as I was the first to experiment with them in marine set ups around 30 years ago and have written a number of short articles on them. Now IME you would really need 2 Oxydators A's running 6% or you could simply up the peroxide % to 9% but 2 would be better. I even know of people using the "W" pond version in largish marine tanks with good results.
Below is a copy of one such article I did a while back.


The use of Oxydators in Fish Only and Reef Aquaria
By Les Melling on Monday, June 1, 2015 at 10:12pm
Oxydator’s: What are they how do they work and what benefits do they bring By Les Melling

I have been using Oxydator’s for many years with great results in my marine tanks. They are powered by Hydrogen peroxide and help to eliminate and keep at bay cyno. An Oxydator will elevate the oxygen of the aquarium water reducing stress and aiding water quality. A number of Seahorse breeders both home and commercial employ them in their systems and have found they help with the survival rate of Seahorse fry.

Oxydator’s have been used in Europe for many years in freshwater aquariums. The peroxide is not administered directly into the tank (and so is far safer) but uses a catalyst to break the hydrogen peroxide down in activated oxygen and water. The process increases redox and helps cleans the aquarium water and keep it gin clear eliminating any yellowing. The effect in many ways is similar to ozone but no electricity is used as the Oxydator is self powering.

I have introduced many reefers in the UK, USA and other countries to the virtues and use of Oxydator’s over the years as little appeared to be known about them.

Due to the Oxydator's oxidizing capacity, your water quality will be improved and many harmful contaminants in your water will be neutralized. Oxydator’s are also an aid to fighting algae problems.

The benefits of adding hydrogen peroxide to an aquarium in cases of acute oxygen deficiency, water putrefaction and water turbidity, spawn fungus, or for enriching the well being of your fish have been known for a long time.

Söchting Oxydator’s breaks the Hydrogen peroxide down into oxygen (O2) and water (H2O).

The advantage: Your aquarium's water quality will be fundamentally improved and problems such as those aforementioned will be greatly hindered.

The Söchting Oxydator breaks down hydrogen peroxide into water and oxygen:2 H2O2 ----------------------------> 2 H2O + O2

My Oxydator is situated in the rear RH side of the tank almost out of view however it could just as easily be put in one of the rear filter chambers.

using the catalyst the peroxide is broken down in the Oxydator and defuses out through a pin hole under the bell housing. Only pure oxygen and water are released nothing else and no peroxide directly enters the aquarium etc..

When in use you might just be able to see some microscopic oxygen bubbles leaving the reactor for a little while, while it settles down. Some of the bubbles are so small that they don't tend to rise but leave the Oxydator and drift horizontally in the water column.

I have never witnessed any adverse effects from these bubbles on any of my corals or fish. The appearance of these fine bubbles happens mainly after first introducing the Oxydator and after each refilling. From time to time larger bubbles are released esp after filling and introduction, again these are of no concern or danger. More info here.http://www.oxydator.de/english/soechting_oxydators.htmlThis is a quote from Dan Underwood, owner and operations of seahorsesource.com.

"As mentioned above, the Oxydators work by the catalyst reacting with the peroxide. This releases the gas inside the device and the gas O2 rises. As it expands. Using the recommend size oxydator and the recommended solution, I have not been able to get a peroxide reading in a tank. When I have increased the strength several times that of the recommendation, I did get peroxide readings.

I too have done peroxide dosing on tanks. Even when dosing 5 to 10 mg/L daily, I have found the Oxydator’s worked better. My guess is because they are constantly working in a slow regulated way”

There are 4 Oxydator’s in the range the Mini, D, A and W. Note the “W” version is very large and only recommended for ponds and large systems.

MODEL SPECIFICATIONS FROM THE OXYDATOR WEB SITE.
Mini D AHeight. 6cm 8.5cm 18cmDiameter 4cm 8.5cm 9cmAquarium size up to 30Ltrs 100Ltrs 400LtrsPeroxide lasting Approx 4weeks 2 -4weeks 2 to 8 weeks
Each model comes with its own catalysts one each for the mini and “D” models 2 with the “A” model. More catalysts can be bought if needed but they are everlasting more or less. Up to 12% food grade hydrogen peroxide can be bought via the net in various quantities inc eBay. If buying 12% then you can dilute it using RO water almost doubling the initial quantity which is very cost effective. Finally Just how long the peroxide last is influenced by a number of factors esp temperature and number of catalysts used as in the “A” model which comes with 2.

Hope the above is of some help. Any questions just ask and BTW I have no connection what so ever with any of the companies.
 

Rick.45cal

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I was dosing H2o2 by hand daily and got tired of doing it. I had read a bunch of articles about them, reviews from aquarists in Europe. Lots of reefers swear by them. So i ordered one, and let it run with 6% I had made up from 35% food grade H2O2. Everything in the tank looked happier, my acans expanded even farther than normal, water was clearer. Seemed to work pretty good so I ordered a second one (one model A isn't enough for my water volume according to their directions). I ran 2 at 6% for a couple weeks then tried 9% and everything seemed even happier. I stopped there and that's what I refill them with every 2 weeks. My corals seem to like them, whether they do everything that is claimed I dunno. I'm happy I bought them and will continue to use them.
 

atoll

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I would never usually recommend going above 9% peroxide but currently use 12% with 2 catalysts in my 100 gallon reef but that is pushing it to the limit IMO. I would start with 6% and look for any negative reactions (highly unlikely) then after a few weeks try 9%. However all things come into play such has the tank volume, how well stocked and feeding amount. Just take it slowly and move up. If you keep anemones these will be one of the first things to show negative reaction if you over do it I find.
 
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johnthehermit

johnthehermit

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Hi,
Just seen your thread,
I introduced Oxydatoes for use in marine aquaria to the UK as I was the first to experiment with them in marine set ups around 30 years ago and have written a number of short articles on them. Now IME you would really need 2 Oxydators A's running 6% or you could simply up the peroxide % to 9% but 2 would be better. I even know of people using the "W" pond version in largish marine tanks with good results.
Below is a copy of one such article I did a while back.

Hope the above is of some help. Any questions just ask and BTW I have no connection what so ever with any of the companies.

Thanks Les. I was hoping you'd chime in. It was your posts on various forums and your interaction with Albert, and his book, that led me to installing the oxydator. I think I'll order another A model and use 6% for the time being as per your advice above. I might put the second one in the section of the sump where my skimmer is located on the output side of the skimmer before the return pump but after my siporax as if the siporax is doing it's job, the water after it may well be slightly depleted of oxygen.. By the way, it's always irritated me when people classify this device as "snake oil"or "snake air" and make derisory comments, when you have passed on your experiences using an oxydator when they have never seen, or indeed used one. I also have noticed the clarity of the water after installing mine. I may get a smaller model, unless you would advise another model A to use in a 110 litre quarantine tank but would remove it before doing any treatment, if indeed treatment is needed.
thanks again
John
 
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atoll

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Hi John and thank you for your kind words and I am glad the Oxydator works for you as indeed it does for the vast majority of users as various posts show on many forums in both the US and UK. Yeah sur,e there will always be people who for whatever reason will attempt to knock something they obviously know little or nothing about and certainly have no experience using. Oxydators are tried and tested, the jury has long given it's verdict.

With regards to your question. I see 2 ways to go with your 110 litre tank as follows.
1/ Buy another model A and run it with 1 catalyst and 6% peroxide.
2/ Buy the model D and run it with say 9% peroxide and one catalyst.
However if you can fit it I would plum for the model A as it will be more versatile and give you longer between refills.
The model will be easier to hide in the DT but of course carry far less peroxide.
The choice my friend is yours.
 

atoll

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I was dosing H2o2 by hand daily and got tired of doing it. I had read a bunch of articles about them, reviews from aquarists in Europe. Lots of reefers swear by them. So i ordered one, and let it run with 6% I had made up from 35% food grade H2O2. Everything in the tank looked happier, my acans expanded even farther than normal, water was clearer. Seemed to work pretty good so I ordered a second one (one model A isn't enough for my water volume according to their directions). I ran 2 at 6% for a couple weeks then tried 9% and everything seemed even happier. I stopped there and that's what I refill them with every 2 weeks. My corals seem to like them, whether they do everything that is claimed I dunno. I'm happy I bought them and will continue to use them.

Your experiences are often mimicked by others including myself. Often stubborn patches of red cyno also disappear and as you notice the water can be gin clear with no sign of yellowing or aged water even when people do little in the way of water changes. I am surprised how slow they have been to take off but in another way nothing surprises me in this hobby.
 

TNT32D

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I have 29 total gallons in my system, can I get away with using the D? I'm unable to put in sump due to size. Thank you.
 

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