Some Simple Tips for Keeping Zoanthids Happy, Healthy, and Growing Fast

[wattson]

I suppose your results for Bayer dips will always vary since Bayer doesn't suggest to use its product as a dip. So there isn't a set dosage to begin with. I tend to dump enough in so I can't see the frag in the water. Never had issues at what ever strength that is, but zoa nudi are strong and ime Bayer won't get them all.

Coral rx is useless and i think everyone that's ever tried to use it to kill a pest will attest to that.

Lugols work well but you might kill the coral too.

Flatworm exit works the best for zoa nudi for me. And no harm to the coral.

Can you explain your process and dosing to do your Flatworm exit dip ??

 

[Triggreef]

Can you explain your process and dosing to do your Flatworm exit dip ??

Off the top of my head not really. I believe i used about 6 drops in 2 cups of water. I also may have made a thread with pics showing results with 4 dips on flatworms.

 

[Surfandturf]

You are Welcome.

No, I Do Not Use Carbon.

Remember Carbon Takes out Good Things as Well as Bad Things so your Corals get Less Nutrients when you use Carbon.

I used Carbon for 5 Years and I got no Growth at all in Most All My Corals.

So I stopped Using Carbon and Boom Corals were Growing

I Take a Natural Approach and Do Not Believe in Carbon.

This was a great write up all in all! I do have a couple of questions... How exactly do you "feed" your zoanthids? I know that people like to think that their zoas are eating reefroids and/ coral frenzy, but is there any evidence that zoanthids are eating? I have had Palys that I know ate, but I do not think that I have ever seen a zoanthid eat. From my observations of zoas, I have to assume that they are filter feeders and help to consume excess nutrients. As far as carbon goes, I have always used carbon and have had great growth rates for my zoanthids.

 

[Pola0502ds]

When i feed with fauna marin zoa/ric food mixed with min D, their mouths all open. I have not watches long enough to see if they are taking it in.

 

[that Reef Guy]

This was a great write up all in all! I do have a couple of questions... How exactly do you "feed" your zoanthids? I know that people like to think that their zoas are eating reefroids and/ coral frenzy, but is there any evidence that zoanthids are eating? I have had Palys that I know ate, but I do not think that I have ever seen a zoanthid eat. From my observations of zoas, I have to assume that they are filter feeders and help to consume excess nutrients. As far as carbon goes, I have always used carbon and have had great growth rates for my zoanthids.

I have some that Close Up Right away but most do not.

So they may or may not take it in.

They may just absorb the extra nutrients in the water from the Reef Roids.

Either Way I notice better growth when I am Feeding Reef Roids

 

[Surfandturf]

I have some that Close Up Right away but most do not.

So they may or may not take it in.

They may just absorb the extra nutrients in the water from the Reef Roids.

Either Way I notice better growth when I am Feeding Reef Roids

I can see the zoanthid as a filter feeder for sure. When I skip one of my water changes they seem to be the only happy corals in the tank, if not happier. I keep it pretty darn clean with 2x weekly water changes of about 10% maybe more. One thing that I can say is that I have not really experienced any type of growth problems from my zoanthids due to the cleanliness of the tank and water quality. I did however have to move my rastas to a higher level in the tank because they were "reaching" for light. Is it possible that these critters receive all of the sustenance that they need from light and nutrients/elements in the water column ie calcium, strontium,magnesium and so forth?

 

[that Reef Guy]

I can see the zoanthid as a filter feeder for sure. When I skip one of my water changes they seem to be the only happy corals in the tank, if not happier. I keep it pretty darn clean with 2x weekly water changes of about 10% maybe more. One thing that I can say is that I have not really experienced any type of growth problems from my zoanthids due to the cleanliness of the tank and water quality. I did however have to move my rastas to a higher level in the tank because they were "reaching" for light. Is it possible that these critters receive all of the sustenance that they need from light and nutrients/elements in the water column ie calcium, strontium,magnesium and so forth?

Yes

 

[revhtree]

Great info!

 

[that Reef Guy]

Great info!

Thanks Rev

 

[renato120]

@Gui Paim

 

[nex64]

Building off one of your points with reef roids.

I've fed my zs n ps all sorts of aminos from Kent, To ELO, as well as acropower.

From my experience, I feel all my corals go the craziest and show best progress from the addition of reef roids. I just absolutely love this stuff and can't get enough.

Anyways, great write up Reef Guy! A thread every enthusiast should read up on!

 

[that Reef Guy]

Building off one of your points with reef roids.

I've fed my zs n ps all sorts of aminos from Kent, To ELO, as well as acropower.

From my experience, I feel all my corals go the craziest and show best progress from the addition of reef roids. I just absolutely love this stuff and can't get enough.

Anyways, great write up Reef Guy! A thread every enthusiast should read up on!

Thank You

Yes, Reef Roids is Amazing Stuff.

 

[Tomisue]

I have Talked To and Read About quite a few People who have been Having Trouble Keeping Zoanthids so I decided to Make this Thread to Help them Out.



Here are My Tips for Happy, Healthy, and Fast Growing Zoanthids.

1. Bayer Dip
2. Keep Everything Stable
3. Feed, Feed, Feed
4. Higher Light and Higher Flow (Generally Speaking)
5. Keep an Eye Out for POX
6. Do Regular Water Changes
7. Don't Buy Animals that Might Go After Zoanthids





1. Bayer Dip -

- No Coral (And I mean no Coral) goes into my Tank without an Aggressive Bayer Dip for 15 Minutes.
- Then I check for Eggs with a High Powered Magnifying Glass with a Built in LED Light Used by Coin Collectors.
- Bayer Kills the Pests but Does NOT Kill the Eggs.
- Zoanthids are Targeted by More Pests than any Other Coral (Nudibranches, Spiders, Sundial Snails, etc.)

http://www.zoaid.com/index.php?module=Gallery2&g2_itemId=384

See the Above Link for all things that can Kill Your Zoanthids!

P.S. I put a 6 Line Wrasse in Every Tank as they LOVE to Eat Pests. Without Fail Every Time I add a New Frag the 6 Line Wrasse Swims Over and Sticks His Nose in Every Nook and Cranny Inspecting for Pests. These Guys are AMAZING and Every Tank Tank Should have a 6 Line Wrasse for Pest Control!




2. Keep Everything Stable -

For Me
Temperature - 77 Degrees
Salinity - 1.026
Alkalinity - 8.5
Calcium - 480
Magnesium - 1440

- Test, Test, Test (I cannot Stress this Enough).
- I Test and Dose Every Day on 6 Tanks (2 of the Tanks I Test and Dose Twice a Day - Once in the Morning and Once at Night).
- My Alkalinity Does not Drop more than 0.3 a Day.
- Remember Alkalinity is Depleted more than anything Else in a Reef Tank and is the Most Important thing to Keep Stable which is Why I Test So Much.




3. Feed, Feed, Feed -

- Don't Listen to anybody that says you should have Zero Nitrate and Zero Phosphate with Zoanthids.
- They LOVE Food!
- I feed 3 Times a Week.


I Feed 4 Different Foods to my Corals

1. Reef Roids
2. BRS Reef Chili
3. Seachem AquaVitro Fuel (Vitamin and Ammino Acid Supplement)
4. Larry's Reef Frenzy Frozen Food (LRS)


Here is my Feeding Schedule

Tuesday -

- Reef Roids
- BRS Reef Chili
- Seachem AquaVitro Fuel (Vitamin and Ammino Acid Supplement)

I mix all 3 Together in some Tank Water

Friday -

- Reef Roids
- BRS Reef Chili
- Seachem AquaVitro Fuel (Vitamin and Ammino Acid Supplement)

I mix all 3 Together in some Tank Water

Sunday -

- Larry's Reef Frenzy Frozen Food (LRS)

LRS is more for my Acans and Chalices which I Target Feed after Chopping it Up Fine with a Razor Blade but there are Fine Particle Coral Foods in LRS that the Zoanthids can Use.




4. Higher Light and Higher Flow (Generally Speaking) -

Unfortunately alot of people will Classify Softies like Zoanthids as Low Light / Low Flow Corals.

I think this is at least Partly Due to the Fact that Softies are More Forgiving Corals than SPS and LPS and a Lot of New People are Told to Start with these Corals when they enter the Hobby. Most people when starting out typically do not have a lot of light and flow so I think alot of LFS's just tell the New Hobbyist this because they know the Corals will Probably not Die on Them.

Now they may Live in These Conditions and Tolerate Low Light / Low Flow but they will not Thrive and be Healthy and Grow Fast in these Conditions.

- Remember not all Zoanthids are the Same.
- Some will do better in Lower Light and Flow.
- But in My Experience Most will Grow Faster, Have Bigger Polyps, and Better Color in Higher Light / Higher Flow Tanks.




5. Keep an Eye Out for POX -

I used to get Pox Outbreaks Quite Often When I Did Not Feed My Corals and Had Zero Nitrate and Zero Phosphate.

But Since I have been Feeding Heavily I have never gotten it so I feel that Poorly Fed Zoanthids are Prone to POX because of this.

I have also Read that some people feel that it comes from Changing of the Seasons or Temperature Drops in the Tank and I have noticed POX from both of these Situations (Fall to Winter and Spring to Summer Time, Power Goes Out and Temperature Drops - Boom POX the Next Day).

Thank God I do not get POX anymore (What a Nightmare)

If you get POX Dip the Zoanthids in Furan-2

Furan-2 can be found at your LFS (It is usually used to Treat Fungus on Freshwater Fish)

- Dip Once a Day for 3 Days in a Row.
- Wait 4 Days and if POX is still there Repeat.




6. Do Regular Water Changes -

- Do Water Changes on a Regular Basis.
- Water Changes will Help Take Out Excess Nutrients.
- They also help Replace Minerals that were Used Up in Coral Growth (Calcium, Magnesium, Strontium, etc.)




7. Don't Buy Animals that Might Go After Zoanthids -

- Angelfish
- Butterflies
- Foxface (Rabbitfish)





Hopefully these Tips will Help Some People Out that are Having Issues Keeping Zoanthids

What is Pox?

 

[Tomisue]

What is pox?

 

[that Reef Guy]

What is pox?

POX Looks like White Zits on the Stalks of the Zoanthids.

http://www.zoaid.com/articles004.php

It will Spread and Cause them to Close Up and Eventually Die.

You do Furan-2 Dips to Get Rid of POX.

You Want to Treat it Immediatly because it Will Spread to Other Zoanthids in the Tank Very Very Quickly

 

[Surfandturf]

I have never dealt with pox, but I have dealt with nudibranchs! I hate those little dudes. They seem to have a taste for higher end zoas.

 

[that Reef Guy]

I have never dealt with pox, but I have dealt with nudibranchs! I hate those little dudes. They seem to have a taste for higher end zoas.

There are alot of Pests that Go After Zoanthids Unfortunately.

That is why you have to Dip Everything before putting it in your Tank.

Inspect for Eggs too because Bayer Will Not Stop Those from Hatching in Your Tank and Letting a Zillion Pests Multiply Even Though You Dipped the Coral.

 

[Engloid]

Oh man, I have couple small colonies, and planning on getting a copperband fish... Now I'm having second thought after reading this. Is there a slight chance that some copperband won't nip on zoas?

I have had several copperbands and not one has ever been seen eating a paly or zoa. Yes, they may pick on one occasionally, in search of pods that are on it, but that's it. They never showed any interest in actually eating the coral itself.

 

[that Reef Guy]

I have had several copperbands and not one has ever been seen eating a paly or zoa. Yes, they may pick on one occasionally, in search of pods that are on it, but that's it. They never showed any interest in actually eating the coral itself.

They have Been Known to Eat Them so Why Risk It?

 

[Rob Royal]

Your write-up pretty much covers it in a clean well formatted outline. My wish would be a "little" more detail... not too much though ;-) ...What do you keep your nutrient levels at...or do you even measure? Also - how is "high" light defined?

Thanks again for an awesome post!