spots tiny on lionfish
- Thread starter Robertchrisroph
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melypr1985
totally addicted
could those be flatworms @Humblefish ?
It's possible; most likely Neobenedenia if that is the case.
To the OP: How comfortable are you doing a FW dip on a venomous fish?
To see if whatever this is falls off once exposed to FW...
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
It looks like a color deformity. Are the dots raised?
Keep an eye on it. If it is a parasite or something to worry about you would see changes in size, location and amount of dots. If not you have a designer lion fish
Keep an eye on it. If it is a parasite or something to worry about you would see changes in size, location and amount of dots. If not you have a designer lion fish
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OP
OP
Robertchrisroph
Active Member
Lol. I don't know how I would do a fwd I'm very allergic. I am 3 blocks from hospital if I have to do the fwd. I will if needed. Not raised looks like color came off. he shed three days ago
Lionfish Lair
Renee
Very interesting. This isn't something specific to predatory fish. I've never seen anything quite like it. He looks beautifully healthy otherwise. I would love to see different angle photos of this, if possible. Lions tolerate a FW dip well. I think it would be something to talk about if the marks are still there tomorrow. I'm going to look through my Noga and see if anything pops up. Most interesting.......
Lionfish Lair
Renee
Noga has nadda.
melypr1985
totally addicted
I gotta say it. If you can get somebody to video you doing a dip on that lion (which i totally think you should for diagnostic purposes) we would love to see it! That could be important for somebody in the future who needs to dip their lion.
OP
OP
Robertchrisroph
Active Member
This is this morning. As much as I would love to remove him and dip him, I'm not going to till he shows me to. Thank you. Um I Got some new zoas from one of our reefers and I noticed a set in my powerhead, can zoas sting a fish and leave marks? But he is very fat and healthy . Thank you
Lionfish Lair
Renee
You do it just like the other fish. Net 'em up and throw them in. I use a certain type of white net that they don't get caught in, but usually it's the darn non-venomous opercular spines that gives trouble. A "regular" fish you'd just reach in and free them, but a hooked up lion isn't fun. When I used a green net one time transferring a radiata, it took me 30 minutes to free him. I felt SO horrible.
Are the spots unilateral or are they on both sides? If on both sides, they are of little concern at this point, if he's asymptomatic. If it's only on one, it may not be normal markings. I wouldn't treat with anything until it's ID'd for certain.
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Lionfish Lair
Renee
I vote leave him be for now. Keep track of how often he sheds.
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