Sps Bleaching problem.

jonas helsted

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Hello, i started to ran in to some problems whit my tank lately. all my old also new eps corals seem to start bleach.
i can't seem to find the issue been reading and reading.

got light on for 12 hours a day (9 am to 9 pm) running them at 50 % from round 1 pm to 3 pm then they slowly ramp down. and like wise slowly up before.

The light unit are Giesemann pulzar HO 65 W 3 pieces. controlled via bluetooth.

i do weekly water change (30 L of 400 L total volume) and my parameters are stable, running calcium reactor.

im also running biopellets and lately added a few more to the reactor. ( NP biopelles )

my water parameters are measured whit red sea.

ALK/ KH 9 Dkh
Ca. 440 ppm
Mag. 1360 PPm

Po4 o,o4 ppm
no3 o,oo ppm
nh4 0,00 ppm

think i got allround the info else feel free to ask.

sorry for the quality taken whit a mobile phone. third last picture was from a coral there died during the setup of the new tank, but came strong back and started growing fine. but also bleaching now.

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Ocelaris

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Ditto, zero nitrates seems to be starving... I'm in a similar situation, I'm going to feed a bit more. But my polyps are fine, are the polyps gone or are they just becoming clear?
 
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jonas helsted

jonas helsted

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they are withdrawn the polyps or really tiny. perhaps gone on some of them.

forgot to mention i feed whit nyos coral nectar and amino acid and phyto max plankton every day after nyos instructions.
 
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jonas helsted

jonas helsted

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ill have to correct my self just did a new nitrate test and its around 8 not 0 as my last reading was 2 july. (it normally docent move)

but problem has been ongoing before that. last corals received 6 of July first once shown on pictures.
 

m0jjen

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No metal corroding and polluting the water? Had simular problems when i started my tank, a bad magnet killed all my sps and most other corals looks like crap. Did i triton test and they found alot of heavy metals including tin.
 

Newb_reefer1

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Sorry to say but they aren't bleaching... That's definitely some stn/rtn going on there depending on how long you've been experiencing problems. Most of them seem to be dead already some look bleached maybe but the few remainders are definitely struggling to survive.

When was the last time you tested for ALK, CAL & MAG ? I would suggest to test daily for a few days, see if you can find anything that seems different then what you're numbers were reading at the time before the problems.

Keep track of their values and adjust accordingly so they stay within range steadily, your readings seem to be fine to me if that's where they are staying. I would also suggest to keep the no3 at a noticeable level somewhere around 5ppm or +/- a ppm or two. Oh yeah and try to drop the phosphate a little .02-.03 seems to be perfect for me !
 
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jonas helsted

jonas helsted

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Sorry to say but they aren't bleaching... That's definitely some stn/rtn going on there depending on how long you've been experiencing problems. Most of them seem to be dead already some look bleached maybe but the few remainders are definitely struggling to survive.

When was the last time you tested for ALK, CAL & MAG ? I would suggest to test daily for a few days, see if you can find anything that seems different then what you're numbers were reading at the time before the problems.

Keep track of their values and adjust accordingly so they stay within range steadily, your readings seem to be fine to me if that's where they are staying. I would also suggest to keep the no3 at a noticeable level somewhere around 5ppm or +/- a ppm or two. Oh yeah and try to drop the phosphate a little .02-.03 seems to be perfect for me !


I test ALK, CA and MG offen. mostly ALK since they other are stable whit the reactor. they dont swing out.(except for mg did once) but within 2-3 days. alk almost every day to make sure the reactor is running as it should hence new corals arrived.

no3 was wrong it should have been 8 ppm it was a zero the 2 of july.. new corals where added 6 of july, the old once started that some time after.

new corals are dipped before entering.

since april the alk is around 8,4-9 and ca 430-440 ppm mg mg has had a little swing from 1280 25 of june and to 1350 28 of june ( dosed some to get it up)

everything is logged in aquaria mate android op every dose and parameters.
 
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jonas helsted

jonas helsted

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No metal corroding and polluting the water? Had simular problems when i started my tank, a bad magnet killed all my sps and most other corals looks like crap. Did i triton test and they found alot of heavy metals including tin.

i dont know but doing a triton test might be a good idea just sad seeing 450 euros go down in no time, never expirenced that before. normally my sps where fine.

was is a algee magnet ? its out of the water and most equipment is from march so more or less brand new.
 

m0jjen

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i dont know but doing a triton test might be a good idea just sad seeing 450 euros go down in no time, never expirenced that before. normally my sps where fine.

was is a algee magnet ? its out of the water and most equipment is from march so more or less brand new.
pump magnet, jebao rw-8
 
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jonas helsted

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Yes sorry I hit the wrong key.
You have a zero for no3 so this is a big limiting factor in the population of zooanthelle

i just measured and the no3 is atm at 8 ppm at the moment, was at zero 2 of july. ( i can't correct it in first post. ) since it haven't moved for a long time i suggested that it was still zero.
 
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jonas helsted

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Just adding my light curve.

there are also could sim on to acclimate the corals for the new light


Skærmbillede 2016-07-20 kl. 22.39.14.png
 
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Newb_reefer1

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Interesting. I'm gonna stick to my assumption that RTN / STN is you're problem for the acros at least. the color is still there kinda on you're orange monti the other monti you have. looks as for the acros they all are dead and the one other on its way out sadly. but for whatever reason you're corals are just not doing well.

If the Params have been logged and checked through you're android app then I would say a swing isn't you're problem, unless you have encountered drastic differences in levels. Although I have read countless articles and threads of cal reactors doing strange things to water chemistry. I'm not saying that's you're problem but I would keep an eye on the bubble rate & the co2 regulator make sure everything it's where it should be, check the flow inlets and outlets maybe they are getting gunked up and need a little cleaning ? Check flow through reactor etc.

I dose alk & cal manually daily it has worked awesome for me and I've not had a problem since after I started using a 2 two part system. I prefer to keep my system as simple as possible. Could you give us some more info on the tank like say light height ? Size of the tank ? How's the flow in the tank ? Possibly even what kind of filtration you are running other than the bio pellet reactor ? Such as a protein skimmer ? Some other way of nutrient export, a carbon or GFO reactor ? Do you have a sump / no sump ? Do you run an RODI for waterchanges or do you know the TDS of the water you use ?
 
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jonas helsted

jonas helsted

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Interesting. I'm gonna stick to my assumption that RTN / STN is you're problem for the acros at least. the color is still there kinda on you're orange monti the other monti you have. looks as for the acros they all are dead and the one other on its way out sadly. but for whatever reason you're corals are just not doing well.

If the Params have been logged and checked through you're android app then I would say a swing isn't you're problem, unless you have encountered drastic differences in levels. Although I have read countless articles and threads of cal reactors doing strange things to water chemistry. I'm not saying that's you're problem but I would keep an eye on the bubble rate & the co2 regulator make sure everything it's where it should be, check the flow inlets and outlets maybe they are getting gunked up and need a little cleaning ? Check flow through reactor etc.

I dose alk & cal manually daily it has worked awesome for me and I've not had a problem since after I started using a 2 two part system. I prefer to keep my system as simple as possible. Could you give us some more info on the tank like say light height ? Size of the tank ? How's the flow in the tank Possibly even what kind of filtration you are running other than the bio pellet reactor ?Such as a protein skimmer ? Some other way of nutrient export, a carbon or GFO reactor ? Do you have a sump / no sump ?


the reactor was one of my thought to or my biopellets filled up 14 days ago. added 100 ml pellets more or so.

my old (skimz cm122) reactor melted a lot and got cloudy. to i took a hard step and took it off as fast as i could and replaced whit a brand new vertex rx-d6 reactor.(wich runs a lot better) the reactor is ph controlled whit a ph of 6.7 inside the reactor. it drips out in the skimmer chamber sine there is more air there to raise the ph's ( reactor also has dual chamber)

the ph is monitored whit the seneye reefmonitor its stable around 8-8,3

The aquariums is Eheim incipiria whit sump(wanted the reefer wife wanted a close on she won hence the ahem.) 130 cm x 60 x "65" cm 10 cm is the light hood so 55 cm water hight light got changed mid june

flow is made by 2 mp40 qd programmed whit reeflink and one tunze steam pump.

light is made by giesemann and are the pulzar ho 65 watts got 3 of those controlled whit bt module ( added the light cycle above post)
they are mounted 4,5 cm over the surface under the hood ( giesemann saw pictures of the tank and found the solution) par readings in the tank and at the top i reach 160-180. but im afraid to ramp the light more up can easy get it over 3o0 at the top 200 mid. (i have a par meter also)

i have a protein skimmer nyos quantom 160.
i run whit a fudge just whit cheato and caulerpa

i have a teco tk1000 chiller on to make sure the temp is 26 degrees can swing 0,5 degrees.

biopellets run in a aqua medic reactor.

topoff is ro water. wich i measure to 005-o16
 
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