Step by step full spectrum diy led build

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greg0385

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It will be in this thread, im wanting to add music and do some editing to the video, but im not able too from my phone so i will upload it to my neighbors laptop then do some editing, then i will post the link here. Just may be a couple days before i get it posted.

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Greg;

I know you did this with your T5's still in place, but what would you suggest for a 55 gallon 48 x 12 x 21 tank with no other lights?
I'm interested in going to LED's so I don't have to change bulbs every 6 - 12 months and was looking at all LED's.

Mostly softies right now, because even with the
Coralife Lunar Aquatic compact Fluorescent lights 2 65W 10K and 2 65W Actinic's I still have problems keeping LPS and SPS corals.

Thanks;

Steve
 
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greg0385

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With today's leds and full spectrum kits available. I dont see why you couldnt grow anything you want with just leds. Dwilliams(along many other) have nothing but whites and blue leds and has got a crazy colorful frag tank.

I chose to keep my t5 as a peace of mind that i have a well round light spectrum and my corals are getting everything they need. Im sure i could take off the t5 and be just fine but havent made that choice just yet. As i believe led/t5 is the best light setup.

Keep in mind that you can have the best lights out there but without the proper water params to go along with it. Then your not going to get great results.

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Sacohen

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Keep in mind that you can have the best lights out there but without the proper water params to go along with it. Then your not going to get great results.

My levels are pretty good, but I still have problems keeping hard corals.
My Gonipora and Torch coral have stop recedding, but are not coming back yet.
My Duncan has just started to recede.

Levels as of Saturday 3/9/13

Salinity 1.026 via Deep Six Hydrometer
Amonia 0 ppm via API Master Test Kit
Ph 7.8 via API Master Test Kit
Nitrites 0 ppm via API Master Test Kit
Nitrates 0 ppm via API Master Test Kit
Phosphates 0.03 ppm via Hannah Checker
Calcium 450 ppm via Red Sea Reef Foundation Pro Multi Test Kit (Ca,Alk,Mg)
Alkalinity 9.0 dKH via Red Sea Reef Foundation Pro Multi Test Kit (Ca,Alk,Mg)
Magnesium 1360 ppm via Red Sea Reef Foundation Pro Multi Test Kit (Ca,Alk,Mg)
 
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gmoney243

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My levels are pretty good, but I still have problems keeping hard corals.
My Gonipora and Torch coral have stop recedding, but are not coming back yet.
My Duncan has just started to recede.

Levels as of Saturday 3/9/13

Salinity 1.026 via Deep Six Hydrometer
Amonia 0 ppm via API Master Test Kit
Ph 7.8 via API Master Test Kit
Nitrites 0 ppm via API Master Test Kit
Nitrates 0 ppm via API Master Test Kit
Phosphates 0.03 ppm via Hannah Checker
Calcium 450 ppm via Red Sea Reef Foundation Pro Multi Test Kit (Ca,Alk,Mg)
Alkalinity 9.0 dKH via Red Sea Reef Foundation Pro Multi Test Kit (Ca,Alk,Mg)
Magnesium 1360 ppm via Red Sea Reef Foundation Pro Multi Test Kit (Ca,Alk,Mg)

With those test results you shouldn't be having problems with keeping stoney corals. If stuff is dying you might have a Stray voltage or some kinda parasites.

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greg0385

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Im betting its the pc lights, i had a similar light fixture, you arent giving your corals enough light.

Thats just my guess

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Sacohen

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Yeah. that's why I want to build this setup like yours.
As far as stray voltage I have a Aquarium Grounding Probes in the sump.
I'll test for it tonight.
 

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Tested for stray voltage last night.
6.5V without the grounding probe in.
0V with the grounding probe in (as it should be).

Did a little unplugging and it seems to be my return pump causing the leak.
I'll try to replace that when I have some money, but since it is 0 with the grounding probe in I'm not in a rush.
 

dwilliams87

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6.5V is not enough of a leak to cause problems. You can that amount off electrical noise. I don't think you need to replace your pump.

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greg0385

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Glad you have found the source.

Im going to edit the video this weekend or just post a raw video.

Sorry been busy at work all week

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The build looks good but I agree you may have shorter life span with those LEDs using that heat sink. Now for your rats nest of wires, I like to use project boxes from Radio shack. You can get 6 of them current drivers in one box with 4 dimmers. It is a tite fit so I like to only put 5 in at the most, with 3 dimmers. Or you could do 3 drivers and thermal paste them to the aluminum and have 3 dimmers with a lot of room this helps keep the drivers cooler. I will try to post some pics of one of the boxes that I have recently built as well as start a DIY log with some of my LED builds.
 

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With today's leds and full spectrum kits available. I dont see why you couldnt grow anything you want with just leds. Dwilliams(along many other) have nothing but whites and blue leds and has got a crazy colorful frag tank.

I chose to keep my t5 as a peace of mind that i have a well round light spectrum and my corals are getting everything they need. Im sure i could take off the t5 and be just fine but havent made that choice just yet. As i believe led/t5 is the best light setup.

Keep in mind that you can have the best lights out there but without the proper water params to go along with it. Then your not going to get great results.

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I just want to throw this out there for something more to consider. I am not trying to start a debate, but I am glad you kept the T5's as well. And here is why...

The fact that you have all the right colors is awesome, but here could be the problem with having all of them. We all know that just white and blues arent going to cover the entire spectrum. And the fact that you have the ability to dim all those colors is very cool too. But at the same time I see this as a dangerous thing. You simply have no idea what kind of spectrum you are providing. Having the ability to dim and control your intensities is one thing, but at the same time could be the problem with why SPS specifically won't color up the way they should, or STN etc. I think if you could get a decent spectrometer you could know for sure where to assign the right colors to the right intensity. Dialing in DIY LED's is where most folks have experienced the most problems and just simply not being happy with LED only fixtures. So having the T5's in combination is where you can alleviate a lot of the guessing game of dialing in the right and full spectrum.
 

gmoney243

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If u Look at spectral graphs of white leds they are full spectrum. So i dont think its missing spectrum i think most are running leds to high and corals colors arnt good because of it.
 

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2:1 ratio plus colors was a little difficult to layout.

The 2:1 ratio is for which colors? the Royal Blue/Blue and 10K/6500?

I'm still trying to lay this out.

I was looking at 17.5 x 5 since I have a 48 by 12 tank. Same length as yours, but half the width. Also my tank is only 21" deep rather than 31".

Does that seem like it would work?
 
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greg0385

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The 2:1 ratio is for which colors? the Royal Blue/Blue and 10K/6500?

I'm still trying to lay this out.

I was looking at 17.5 x 5 since I have a 48 by 12 tank. Same length as yours, but half the width. Also my tank is only 21" deep rather than 31".

Does that seem like it would work?

Yeah so its 2 blue : 1 white ratio. Then 50/50 on the blue, royal blue ratio and 50/50 on white 10k, 6500k ratio. The heatsink layout will work as long as your not doing any t5s.

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I was thinking about doing T5's since I have some old IceCap Balast's and everything except the builds.
I've had mixed thoughts.
I've read other posts that suggest running something else with LED's

If I go with 2 48" T5 VHO's (blue and 50/50) 1 in front of the heatsink and 1 behind. what would you suggest for the heatsink layout?
 

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