Sump design help please !!

Biznizface

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Am upgrading to a TMC signature 900 with ocean life overflow soon and am assured the sump design is bad.

Want to run Sera Siporax 25mm hoops in a egg crate basket for nutrient control because I don't like the look or the mess a refugium creates.

Have also had good success in my nano with siporax.

Please anyone got a definitive answer for the sump design ??

Sump now is this photo -
IMG_0491.JPG


Proposed sump diagram -

IMG_0531.JPG
 

melypr1985

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#reefsquad got any help?
 

Brew12

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Only thing I see is the lack of a bubble trap. Could just not be shown on the drawing.
 

john.m.cole3

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The sections look fine to me. I agree with skimmer first, middle chamber, then return. I would suggest more baffles. An over/under baffle set up will slow the water current down and act as a bubble trap. Make sure you don't put your heater in your return section. Some people do an under/over baffle set up for the section going from the skimmer to the siporax. I think the reasoning behind that is to keep solids in the first chamber for the skimmer to pull out.
 

Daniel@R2R

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dbl

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Agree with others on a bubble trap. Also, make sure you leave enough room for downward flow during pump outages.
 
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Biznizface

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IMG_0534.JPG


An extra baffle in this position you mean ?

I was considering having floss jammed in this possible narrow up and over section rather than socks attached to the drain as I've continually read they are a pain.
 

Brew12

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IMG_0534.JPG


An extra baffle in this position you mean ?

I was considering having floss jammed in this possible narrow up and over section rather than socks attached to the drain as I've continually read they are a pain.
I did my bubble trap with 3 pieces. A full size one to set the height in the previous section, one to force the water down about 1" above the bottom glass, and the third one on the bottom to force the water (and bubble) back up. Very standard setup.
 

Brew12

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Sorry can you explain better ? Never had a
sumped tank before so excuse my ignorance
None of us had a sump before we had one. ;) Nothing at all to excuse. Found this pic on the internet.

upload_2016-11-22_20-31-10.png
 
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Biznizface

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Any
I did my bubble trap with 3 pieces. A full size one to set the height in the previous section, one to force the water down about 1" above the bottom glass, and the third one on the bottom to force the water (and bubble) back up. Very standard setup.

Any chance of a sketch sorry if I'm being cheeky just I have no experience with sumps
 
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Biznizface

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Ok
This one shows it better
upload_2016-11-22_20-34-14.png

Ok but as my return has to be the other end (left side) just a case of switching it around you think.
Another thing wouldn't the baffles slow down the flow through the sump to much but then on the other hand having the baffles from the get go would be easier than putting them in later but would be easier to remove if not working etc I suppose
 

Brew12

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Ok


Ok but as my return has to be the other end (left side) just a case of switching it around you think.
Another thing wouldn't the baffles slow down the flow through the sump to much but then on the other hand having the baffles from the get go would be easier than putting them in later but would be easier to remove if not working etc I suppose
Yup, just switch it around. Or, build it this way then turn the sump around when you install it! :p

The baffles have almost no impact on flow as long as you leave enough of a gap between them.
 
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Biznizface

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I think I understand having a baffle after the skimmer / drain compartment to give the skimmer more time to remove proteins but is the one before return necessary and if so why ?
 

Brew12

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I think I understand having a baffle after the skimmer / drain compartment to give the skimmer more time to remove proteins but is the one before return necessary and if so why ?
Actually the 3 baffles work together to remove microbubbles that are in the water from the skimmer.

The first baffle sets the height of the skimmer section and strips most of the bubbles out when the water is forced down under the 2nd baffle. The 3rd baffle help strip any remaining bubbles by giving them upward momentum (and a bit of a pressure transient) to keep your return pump from putting microbubbles in your display.

So, you will want 3 baffles between the skimmer and the media section. You don't "have" to have a baffle before your return pump. It is a very good idea to do for 2 reasons. One, it gives your media filter section a constant height. The other benefit comes into play if you use an auto top off (which I recommend). Having the small return section separated by a baffle will make your ATO system work more effectively.
 
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Biznizface

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IMG_0541.JPG
So like this then or am I missing a baffle from each end ? Surely two baffles is enough ?

Also defo using an ATO
 

Shaun Sweeney

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First you need to understand that whatever design you settle on, the final compartment (at the return intake) is the only part of the sump that should ever change volume. Next, you need to understand that you want the skimmer compartment to retain the same water level at all times, regardless of whether the return pump is on or off. This means that the return pump compartment has to be large enough to handle all of the "drainback". Depending on how far from the DP the sump is, you may have to take the piping capacity into consideration. In any case drainback volume will dictate the location of the return pump baffles. If you are going to keep a refugium in the middle, you should have 3 baffles serving the return pump compartment. This will allow you to have a deep sand bed in the refugium. The skimmer compartment only needs a single baffle that closes off the bottom, forcing the water over the top and ensuring a constant depth of water. If possible, allow enough space between the baffles to reach between them and clean the surfaces. Lastly, consider having opaque or dark baffles if you are keeping a refugium. This allows you to light the refugium will minimizing light into the skimmer and return pump compartments.
 

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