Tank Transfer Method

JPSika08

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Hi, I'm on Day 2 of TTM, the tanks I'm using are 10 Gallon each, I got two percula clowns in there as I wanted to introduced them at the same time.

I'm giving twice a day, a small pinch of food to avoid any quick ammonia spike, though, how long would the ammonia spike considering the food and poop of these fish in such small tank?

Water is new, I have a sponge filter in there (New as well), heater and PVC.

Here is a quick pick for reference:


Thank you
 

melypr1985

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You'll need to monitor the ammonia level at all times. an ammonia alert badge (or two in the case of TTM) will give you real time measurements of it. It if shows anything but yellow do a water change. You shouldn't see a spike in the three days they are in there, but it's possible.
 

JPSika08

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You'll need to monitor the ammonia level at all times. an ammonia alert badge (or two in the case of TTM) will give you real time measurements of it. It if shows anything but yellow do a water change. You shouldn't see a spike in the three days they are in there, but it's possible.

Thank you very much for your quick reply.
I will get the ammonia alert badges as well as double check with API Ammonia test kit.

Another quick question,
After each transfer, I need to thoroughly clean the equipment and let it dry for at least 24 hours.
Some of this equipment is non metal (Collander, PVC and top cover) can I place them in the microwave for a minute and kill off any ich or velvet attached to them?, would that guarantee me they are clean for the next transfer?

Air tubes, sponge filters are being thrown out completely, I got a new set of them for each transfer.
 

melypr1985

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Thank you very much for your quick reply.
I will get the ammonia alert badges as well as double check with API Ammonia test kit.

Another quick question,
After each transfer, I need to thoroughly clean the equipment and let it dry for at least 24 hours.
Some of this equipment is non metal (Collander, PVC and top cover) can I place them in the microwave for a minute and kill off any ich or velvet attached to them?, would that guarantee me they are clean for the next transfer?

Air tubes, sponge filters are being thrown out completely, I got a new set of them for each transfer.

I dont think i would put any of that in my microwave. Letting them dry completely after a quick rinse in vinegar/water solution will be plenty to ensure they are safe for another use.
 

JPSika08

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I dont think i would put any of that in my microwave. Letting them dry completely after a quick rinse in vinegar/water solution will be plenty to ensure they are safe for another use.

Thank you very much, I will do this instead.
 

Adamwheel

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You do not need to monitor the ammonia during tank transfer. It will not build up in such a short period of time (3 days). On day two of each transfer, just for peace of mind, I add a little Prime. No reason for the badge. That is best served for a cycled QT.
 

JPSika08

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Thank you.

I have a some medicines such as, Methylene blue, Pazipro, etc. Do this have a due date? I have tried reading all over the bottles but I can't find any exp. date.
 
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Humblefish

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Some of this equipment is non metal (Collander, PVC and top cover) can I place them in the microwave for a minute and kill off any ich or velvet attached to them?, would that guarantee me they are clean for the next transfer?

Blow a fan on it instead, that will dry it faster.
 

Matthew Elsass

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Got a question if anyone has any experience with plexiglass. Want to build a Quartine tank for my fish room. Have a spot between the studs in the wall. The tank would be 13x8x24in tall. Very tall and skinny. About 10 gallons. Would 1/4 plexiglass work? Thoughts?
 

Neptune1707

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I don't know that I understand how by moving the fish back and forth between 2 tanks that one would basically be contaminating each tank with ick...vollying the fish back and forth between the tanks so the ick can't re-attach. It almost like telling someone to go outside in the rain....and move between the rain drops and don't get wet...seems impossible LOL....sorry if this seem like a dumb observation. I'd like to understand better...as I'm currently doing a Cupramin treatment and keeping diligent eye on all tools/equipment to keep clean after each use in the tank to keep from re-contaminating. I like the idea of the TTM method....I think use of chemicals shorten the overall life of the fish etc.
 

Neptune1707

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Actually just looked up on YouTube....think I understand better. Didn't realize that every time you move the fish...you cleaning and sanitizing the tank and basically out running the parasite. Here's the video I found.
 

Jamesholt

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I don't know that I understand how by moving the fish back and forth between 2 tanks that one would basically be contaminating each tank with ick...vollying the fish back and forth between the tanks so the ick can't re-attach. It almost like telling someone to go outside in the rain....and move between the rain drops and don't get wet...seems impossible LOL....sorry if this seem like a dumb observation. I'd like to understand better...as I'm currently doing a Cupramin treatment and keeping diligent eye on all tools/equipment to keep clean after each use in the tank to keep from re-contaminating. I like the idea of the TTM method....I think use of chemicals shorten the overall life of the fish etc.

You are moving the fish away from the ich contaminated tank in-between the next cycle of the ich, it has three stages..
So you are moving the fish when it drops off the fish to reproduce...
Also another, thing don't keep the tank in use, close to the next tank or your dt, it can be spread by the mist from an airstone or a splash..
 

tigé21v

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Awesome thread.
I have been wanting to add a few new fish to my tank for a while now, but have hesitated because of the chance of introducing some disease or parasite. My current fish have been in the tanks for 5+ years without any problems. I was EXTREMELY lucky, as I didn't do any type of QTing with any of the fish, and they came from numerous sources.(I hate to even talk about it, I feel like I'm setting myself up for some bad juju .)
I've read about this method in the past. I guess my biggest question is, even though my fish have appeared to be ich-free for all these years, is it possible there is still ich living in my tanks? I thought I read somewhere that ich is (probably) present in most all tanks, but if your fish are healthy they will not be infected (or maybe it's that they would be able to fight off the infection without any outwardly noticeable signs of being infected.)
So, my questions off the top of my head...
Can I use tank water for the water changes, if the organism may still be present in my system, although there have not been any noticeable signs of it?
How many fish (or inches of fish) could I do in one 5 gallon bucket at a time?
How long does/can ich live without a host?
How long does one need to QT new corals and inverts to be sure no ich is introduced through their addition to the system?
 

melypr1985

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I would bet your tank has ich in it and your fish have a good enough immune system that they are able to resist full on infestation. They still carry it in their gills out of sight. Dont use your DT's water for the QT.
This will answer some of these questions: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-cryptocaryon-irritans.191226/
Corals and inverts could probably go through 30 days of QT and be safe, though it's 76 days to be absolutely sure they arn't bringing anything into the tank.
 

tigé21v

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so if this is the case, and I agree that it probably is, what would be the point of going through the ordeal of the tank transfer method? Wouldn't one just be better off to QT/treat for other possible problems? Why put the fish through the extra stress?
Not looking to be argumentative, just trying to better understand the benefits , if in fact, they are going into a tank where they will probably be reinfected.
 

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