Vertex Illumina Official Thread

Alabamareef · Dec 30, 2014

Glad to hear you got the issue fixed. I'd like to see a photo of your programing and tank. Maybe there is something to being so high off the water, light spread. I know the manafactured reccomendation is 4" and thats what mine is at. Remembering I've got the 260/1500 on a 6' tank.
Also I've been looking at the Seneye Reef system, seneye.com, to use to see how might light is doing on the bell curve and PAR as well as Kelvin. I've been really frustrated with the color in my tank; although it does not look bad it's not what I want. I'm going to try this till the summer and if it does not improve I'm going MH + T5's.

JDavis said:
Bama-
I've been the Crayon colors Especially on my SPS, never looked better. Remember that "flickering" issue I had in the mornings? I wouldn't be much help though, just last week I've finally got around to changing up the program to fix it. My V-Link/ Laptop wouldn't scan the channels, had to use the Custom feature on the light interface to program. It's cured the flickering and I like the colors. Still tweeking the timing though. I've traditionally used blue/ white leds, I've gone more in that direction as opposed to full spectrum. Reds and UV are only at 5%. No Green. Both blues hit 100%. Whites max out at 25%. I've still have them about 15" off the water on a 18" tall tank. I am running the SR360 though.

bwoodward0012 · Jan 5, 2015

Can anyone point me in the right direction for ordering a new display end for one of my lights (have 2 SR260 12" lights)? It has moisture in it, which didn't bother me at first when I bought it second hand and I was using it as the slave unit, but now the light won't turn on at all. I've been able to get it to turn on temporarily when messing with the display but nothing that's actually fixed the problem. I've checked vendors and what not but haven't been able to find a display end for sale.

Alabamareef · Jan 6, 2015

Call Tech Support at Proline Aquatics, Jen, 1-877-682-3474. They will be about 3 hours behind your time. What steps have you done to try to fix the problem? If the light worked before I'd check the power supply just make sure everything is pluged in tight. Do you have a vlink or do you only program from the light?

bwoodward0012 said:
Can anyone point me in the right direction for ordering a new display end for one of my lights (have 2 SR260 12" lights)? It has moisture in it, which didn't bother me at first when I bought it second hand and I was using it as the slave unit, but now the light won't turn on at all. I've been able to get it to turn on temporarily when messing with the display but nothing that's actually fixed the problem. I've checked vendors and what not but haven't been able to find a display end for sale.

Alabamareef · Feb 6, 2015

Any new Illumina owners or questions out there?

crewcutchuck · Mar 12, 2015

Hi there, new to this forum and LED reef lighting.

I have a 300mm SR260 and I'm having some problems. When I program the light using expert mode the cycle runs fine for 1 maybe 2 days but then gets stuck with W,B,RB LEDs remaining on all night?
I've traded unplugging the light for 30sec when in this condition and when plugged in again it reverts back to the correct state and follows the program again until it reaches the same point.
I have tried reloading my graph from the computer and the same thing happens. Half or so cycle and then stuck.
I've tried making a new graph and programming to light, this seemed to work for a few days and now that's started getting stuck as well.

I have recently set up the tank and now it's finished cycling I dare not get any corals incase the light locks up overnight when I'm not there.

I hope you can help me

I was so excited to get this light but from searching on the web all I seem to find is people complaining of glitches :-(

crayon · Mar 12, 2015

The reason you see only complaints on the web is because those of us who love our lights don't shout from the mountain tops!
Ok, here are a couple things to try: at the bottom of the vertex software screen there is a number called an LQI. That number has to stay above 65 to ensure the software program you have written loads up to the light properly. If you must, put your notebook on top of the light. This will ensure all of the light program has written up to the light properly.
Second, try updating the software.
Third, and sometimes the easiest. The technical support for Vertex is amazing. Well, actually the person who does tech support for Vertex is amazing. She can sort your light out for sure. Call Proline Aquatics in Richmond BC, Canada, speak with Jen. They are the NA distributor for Vertex. I've had to use her a couple times for issues and only have excellent things to say.

crewcutchuck · Mar 12, 2015

Thanks for the reply Crayon. While I admit to not checking the connection strength I was under the impression that the graph had uploaded ok as not only did it say upload successful, but the light behaves as it should for a whole cycle or two. It also does as it should if I run it in quick motion.

I'm going to try updating the softwear and firm wear tonight if I get time.

My reason for joining up and posting on here is after searching forums this seemed the most clued up. I'd like to avoid a call to Canada as long as possible as I'm in the UK.

Thanks again for the reply
Chris

crewcutchuck · Mar 12, 2015

OK, so the light played up again this evening as it was supposed to be transitioning from W,B,RB down to just the RB as the moon light. Basically it just stopped dimming. I unplugged for 30 seconds and plugged in again. This resulted in one pad dimming to the expected level and the other remaining lit with all colours on.

I then started up the laptop and read the file from the light. All looked in order on the graph.

I opened the saved file from the computer and copied it to the light. The signal was around 80. The first try it failed to upload, the second try it said upload complete but when the light started it was with all colours on both pads. I then uploaded it again, complete, light came on with the expected colours and brightness.

Maybe the firmware had become corrupted? I guess I'll try to load it again tomorrow...

crayon · Mar 13, 2015

So, if you're in the UK, yup, you're right, a phone call to Canada is probably out of the question. You may have to find the UK distributor for Vertex. I had a similar issue, with one pad not responding properly.
Try this:
Update software and firmware
Reload program, keeping LQI at 80. Yes.....if the LQI is not high enough, you will get a false positive that the program has loaded ok, but it really hasn't.
When rebooting light, disconnect power supply to transformer, or at the wall, don't just turn the light off and keep power supply plugged in.
If that fails, be in touch with the distributor. They should be able to help you. When I had an issue with my small light, the tech support used a beta patch which has not been released, and it solved the problem.
If tech support UK can't help you, try tech support Europe, or wherever makes sense, If all of that fails, it may be possible to still work with tech support Canada. The person I worked with actually logged on to my computer and checked a few things before downloading the patch. You may be able to work with her via email with no phone call. LMK if this works.
This is an awesome light. The issue is resolvable. Once it is sorted out, you will adore this light.

Alabamareef · Mar 14, 2015

Hello and sorry for not responding sooner. Before you download new firmware lets do something else. The problem your desscribing sounds like it could be your moon cycle. How is your moon programed? Can you screen shot your moon programing....
If you've got an upload sucessful then it should have downloaded fine and I'm thinking its your programing.

jayhawk · Mar 15, 2015

Alabamareef said:
Any new Illumina owners or questions out there?

I have been in search of the right settings. I know there is no silver bullet but I want to know what settings are getting color and growth. I have a 260 (24"). I have the standard lights with 2 4 color aux modules (green, UV, warm white, and red). The tank is an SCA 66 gallon (32 L x 20 H x 24 W). I have LPS (acan, blasto's, pectinia, zoas). The fixture is 6 1/2" from the water line. I have had the fixture for almost two years. I got an MH fixture out of frustration but wanted to give the Vertex another try. I have been running the Vertex for over a month. I was able to find a light scheme on-line that looked promising. I have noticed my zoa's losing color. Nothing seems to be growing or showing signs of growth (except Green Star Polyps). I was hoping to get some advice and any settings that have yielded results for you or any other user. My parameters are spot on. The only thing that concerns me is that my phosphates are always undetectable. I know that in some cases a trace amount of phosphates is okay. My nitrates are in the 2ppm range. The temp is on a chiller with is at 77 degrees. My light scheme is attached below. I appreciate your help.

Alabamareef · Mar 16, 2015

Glad you posted jayhawk. So I'll share what I've learned over the past few years. First let me say I've had great growth with this light and had trouble with color issues but I've got a handel on that now. Also remember don't make big changes. Do small changes over time, ie 5% every weak or less. So lets look at your program. Your whites will give you growth but you need intensity to get color... My whites I only use for 4 hours a day, trying a new program, but high intensity. Also My royal and blue lights are 100%. Also I'll use clouds durning the day to break the light pattern. I may ramp up your whites a little faster and bump up the intensity. Eyerything looks good. I'd start bumping the whites up and keep an eye on everything to see how it responds. Also my light is 4 inches off the water surface.

This is very close to what I have now with the exception my whites are in the middle of the cycle and on for 4 hours and teh intensity is at 50% peaking at 65%

'

Alabamareef · Mar 16, 2015

I'll try to post a better photo tomorrow.

jayhawk · Mar 16, 2015

Alabamareef said:
Glad you posted jayhawk. So I'll share what I've learned over the past few years. First let me say I've had great growth with this light and had trouble with color issues but I've got a handel on that now. Also remember don't make big changes. Do small changes over time, ie 5% every weak or less. So lets look at your program. Your whites will give you growth but you need intensity to get color... My whites I only use for 4 hours a day, trying a new program, but high intensity. Also My royal and blue lights are 100%. Also I'll use clouds durning the day to break the light pattern. I may ramp up your whites a little faster and bump up the intensity. Eyerything looks good. I'd start bumping the whites up and keep an eye on everything to see how it responds. Also my light is 4 inches off the water surface.

This is very close to what I have now with the exception my whites are in the middle of the cycle and on for 4 hours and teh intensity is at 50% peaking at 65%

'

Thanks for the information. The Vertex is so versatile it's almost it's detriment.

Alabamareef · Mar 17, 2015

agree jayhawk, I've ask before about some set programs but no luck. You can check out anotyer blog, Ultimate Reef, there you can find sever threads about the vertex light. It's used more in Europe than the US

Alabamareef · Mar 17, 2015

Jayhawk, if you'd like send me your email and I can share my programing files with you. This is a picture of my current program and it seems to be doing, coloring/growing, everything very nice....

general0 · Mar 28, 2015

Hello,

I have a Vertex SR260 3ft model with every extra space filled with aux panels. Unfortunately the display end took a dip in the tank and it fried the display, main led board, multi color board, and red board. Wondering if it would be worth the effort to fix it or just part everything out from it that's still good and toss it up as a loss?

I did completely disassemble the light and cleaned every single pad and I'm confident just those pads were damaged but not sure I should sink anymore money into this light! I was thinking of just gutting it and retrofitting 4 Lumia 5.2's in it!

Any advice?

Alabamareef · Mar 29, 2015

Call Tech Support at Proline Aquatics, Jen, 1-877-682-3474. They will be about 3 hours behind your time. Ask her what it would take to fix it or maybe trouble shoot. Let me know how it turns out

crayon · Mar 29, 2015

general0 said:
Hello,

I have a Vertex SR260 3ft model with every extra space filled with aux panels. Unfortunately the display end took a dip in the tank and it fried the display, main led board, multi color board, and red board. Wondering if it would be worth the effort to fix it or just part everything out from it that's still good and toss it up as a loss?

I did completely disassemble the light and cleaned every single pad and I'm confident just those pads were damaged but not sure I should sink anymore money into this light! I was thinking of just gutting it and retrofitting 4 Lumia 5.2's in it!

Any advice?

I did the same thing. Two years ago. The display end wasn't that expensive, it was less than the price of a pad. You know the cost of each pad. So it won't cost much to get the light working with just basic pads, but if you want to replace all he pads that got fried, you will be able to make a decision. If you start by replacing the display end, you can take it from there. call Jen.