WHATS THE MOST TROUBLE FREE RO/DI UNIT

Greenstreet.1 · Mar 19, 2016

Hello my reefing friends.
I have been having ups and downs with my @BRS rodi unit and today I changed all filters and I'm not getting any good water once again. Took it apart and found no problems as always but still no water.
So it's time for a change.

Would like to know what you guys use how long you have been using it and is it trouble free ?

Thank you all for your time.

Reef_a_holiks · Mar 19, 2016

ive been running a purewaterclub rodi unit for a little over 2 years, zero issues so far.

AZDesertRat · Mar 19, 2016

Spectrapure for the last 13+ years. I'm over 8 years on the same RO membrane and it's still at 99.4% removal efficiency from the RO only before the dual DI. After owning 5 different systems and working with many more in my professional life I wouldn't even consider anything else. There really is a difference.

I will add, my tap water is always over 550 TDS and gets over 800 at times so it's a testament to how good they are.

Triggreef · Mar 19, 2016

AZDesertRat said:
Spectrapure for the last 13+ years. I'm over 8 years on the same RO membrane and it's still at 99.4% removal efficiency from the RO only before the dual DI. After owning 5 different systems and working with many more in my professional life I wouldn't even consider anything else. There really is a difference.

I will add, my tap water is always over 550 TDS and gets over 800 at times so it's a testament to how good they are.

That's crazy! Just wondering how many gpd that is and how much water you generally make?

Greenstreet.1 · Mar 19, 2016

Well found part of the problem one of the new carbon block is bad got psi up but production is still low.

AZDesertRat · Mar 19, 2016

It's their 90 gpd select series hand tested membrane boosted to 95-100 psi so between 135 and 150 gpd. It is protected by a 0.2 micron absolute rated sediment filter and a single 0.5 micron carbon block that go about 18 months between changes by monitoring headloss and chlorine breakthru. I am in Phoenix so evaporation is high with my 100g display with a 30g sump and a 16g nano. 120 to 150 gallons a month.

120reefkeeper · Mar 19, 2016

+1 spectrapure!

mcarroll · Mar 19, 2016

@Greenstreet.1 : Check the inside/center of the filter modules (prefilter, carbon, et al) as well as the filter manifold (where the housings screw in) to see if you missed a piece of the clear filter wrapping celophane stuff....it'll close off the canister intake or exit completely and it doesn't take a piece much bigger than a penny to do it.

The stuff gets electrostatically charged if you just look at it funny, and then if you happen to miss just a shred (or maybe it was even packed that way) that's all it takes - it'll stick to the filter module and be nearly 100% invisible.

Am I sounding like this happened to me?

Some other thoughts:

Are all your canisters filling with water? (The ones you can see into, if any.)
If you can't tell, does the unit feel heavy like it's filling up with water after 5 minutes or so? It'll have at least a gallon of water in it....maybe more like 2 or 3...so there won't be a question if you try and lift it.
Does the waste line generate anything?
Does the waste line eventually stop running too?

Greenstreet.1 · Mar 19, 2016

I will check the modules again. The waste line do make water but slow. Before I changed out the bad block it was not.
Yes all the canisters that I can see into are full psi is back up the only one that's not full is the DI and that never fills all the way unless the float is tripped

guppyengine4 · Mar 19, 2016

Had my BRS RO/DI 5 stage Chlorimine system for around 3 years never a problem and great water quality.

Sabellafella · Mar 19, 2016

Dude if i didnt sell my spectrapure after i took a hobby break, id still be using it. Was one of the best ro system i ever owned, never once ever had a problem

lyscer · Apr 3, 2016

I had some issues with my 6 stage BRS Ro/DI unit as well. I am pretty much just using the housing on it now for all of my spectrapure filters haha. AZDesertRat helped me figure things out along the way. Can you help us understand which BRS unit you have? A couple other factors that may help here:

- What is the pressure of the water going into your unit? How are you measuring it?
- What is the water temperature going into your unit?
- What is your production water TDS?
-- What is the TDS coming out of the membrane?
-- If you have DUAL DI canisters what is the TDS after each one?
- Let your unit run for at least 15 minutes and then measure how much water comes out of the waste line for 60 seconds. What is it?
- Let your unit run for at least 15 minutes and then measure how much water comes out of the production line for 60 seconds. What is it?
- How long have you had your unit? and how old are the filters and DI resins?

Lionfish Lair · Apr 3, 2016

Did you call/email BRS?

Greenstreet.1 · Apr 3, 2016

Thanks for the replies everyone I found the problem the new filters that I put in where no good. I will no longer be using BRS filters anymore.

zoomonster · Apr 3, 2016

I've been using the BRS RO/DI 5 stage 150gpd for almost 2 years and never an issue. I do have high water pressure (70-80psi at the unit) but it actually does a little better than 150gpd. I've used BRS filters and other replacement filters from Salty Supply. I've also used a variety of DI resins.

Anyway curious what exactly the issue is with the filters. Actually just received a new set from BRS the other day and have not installed yet.

greddy1 · Apr 3, 2016

BRS 5 stage was the best price and worked flawless. The replacement kit for the filters including DI resin is only like $30.00

Opus · Apr 4, 2016

Still using the housing from my Kent Marine 20gpd unit I got 23 years ago.

wooglins · Apr 4, 2016

I replace mine every 2-3 years. It seems like an expexpensive way to go. A generic RO/DI only costs 100-120 bucks for a five stage. I maintain the DI resin, and ignore everything else. When the resin depletes rapidly I know its time to replace the whole unit. Funny thing is I usually am able to sell the old unit for 20-50 dollars so the new unit ends up only costing even less.