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I heard they are cover the controllers under warranty? Does anyone have the info needed to get the replacements? Why wasn't this info mailed/emailed out? Thank You.
interested to see how you mounted them under the hoodI have 2 Photon 24's over my 200g DD with a canopy. I had one over my 120g for 6 months and had great results once I figured out how powerful they are. I have 120* optics on a 27" deep tank and get great results. My 200g is SPS dominated and some acros I don't move higher than the sand bed. I think a lot of people overdo it with optics, IMHO. Here's a pic when I first put them up and one a few months later.
interested to see how you mounted them under the hood
Is anyone keeping clams under these lights? pics??
interested to see how you mounted them under the hood
After owning my reef breeders led for a good few moths now, and it being my first LED module, I can honestly say I don't know why guys go for/feel like they need any higher wattage output. I started this thing at 25% power and have only ramped it up 15% up to this day, making it run at about 40% white and 35% blue for a 6 hour cycle daily and it is ridiculously powerful. Most of my coral is doing great but there is a frogspawn that has almost completely bleached out and even a millepora who isn't doing well with the light. For reference, the fs is at the bottom of a 14 inch tank, and the light is 10 inches off the water surface. I acclimated all these corals and while most of them can handle the power, some can definitely not. I'm completely happy with the light and love the look ot gives the tank and size and quality of the unit. I will concede though that I should have purchased the LCD control unit so I didn't have to manually increase or dim the lights in increments daily, it truly is a pain. I guess the point of this post though is to try and understand and inquire about the reasons why so many people not only defend but advocate 3w Cree LEDs and aim sometimes for a total wattage output in excess of 150w per unit. It's pretty mind boggling to me because I'm keeping everything, including sps of varying types, who cannot even handle or are fine with my unit output at 40%. Something to think about.
Hey Savvy. I agree with you. I have the NOVA A4 over my 60 cube. 24" deep. In trying to ramp this light up and I started noticing the bases of my sps in the upper 1/3 of the tank start to bleach. Not all but a few. So I dug my Seneye par meter out to see what the par was and I was stunned. I have 90 deg optics. I got as high as 55% on both channels before I started to see leaching. Here are my PAR number. Both channels at 100% and 12" BWL (top of my rock pillar) = 1000+ par. At 55% both channels my par at 12" BWL = close to 800. Both channels at 35% 12" BLW = 350 par. Yikes. So I emailed Logan to find out how to take the optics out. After the optics where removed and everything was at 120 deg I tested the par again. Both channels at 100% the par at 12" BWL was only 300. Plus the shimmer effect was almost non existent. I put the optics back in and I am running both channels at 35% at the highest.
My two cents, for all it worth.