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tjnorthdakota

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What's the wiring diagram on the 6 wire ballast look like?
image.jpeg
 

Turbo's Aquatics

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I can't forsee any issue. The #4 wire on the 7-wire ballast is gone, that's the only difference. I believe this just means that the ballast works differently, but should be able to drive the lamps fine. basically, a series vs parallel arrangement. But are both ballasts designed to operate the exact same type of lamp? That's the more important question. Same wattage, same type. Since the ballasts are different, they might be intended to run different types of lamp arrangements.
 

Pagerone

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So my tank is nearly overloading my living room circuit so I'd like to add two additional 20 amp lines to the wall behind the tank. It would be 2 breakers with two outlets on each run. It will need to go up to the attick and back down the wall.

So what materials should I use for running the wire?
Does it need to be in conduit if it is in the attick?
Do I need to have the work inspected before hooking to the breaker box?

Thanks so much for offering your assistance. There are many diyers who like getting expert advice before doing a job ;)
So my tank is nearly overloading my living room circuit so I'd like to add two additional 20 amp lines to the wall behind the tank. It would be 2 breakers with two outlets on each run. It will need to go up to the attick and back down the wall.

So what materials should I use for running the wire?
Does it need to be in conduit if it is in the attick?
Do I need to have the work inspected before hooking to the breaker box?

Thanks so much for offering your assistance. There are many diyers who like getting expert advice before doing a job ;)


Do Romex there is no need to run conduit pulse if you do not know how to bend conduit it will makes the job a lot harder then it needs to be I would go buy 12/3 Romex this gives you two circuits I don't know if you need to run two neutrals I think that's overkill one will be just fine plus it's easyer also I don't know if you could get it into the panel that area is pretty busy and you don't want to damage any other conductors just be carful shut all power down in the house and make sure you are careful
 

Raddock

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I have 2 Pilot light switches that I would like to use for my water mixing station for pump and heater. I want the light to be on only when the switch is closed, but despite wiring it as illustrated in the docs and on several youtube videos, (well, I think it is but obviously something is wrong) the light is always on. The switch is working fine, but the light doesn't go off when the switch is open. What have I got wrong? Thanks in advance!
 

michaelrc51

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I have 2 Pilot light switches that I would like to use for my water mixing station for pump and heater. I want the light to be on only when the switch is closed, but despite wiring it as illustrated in the docs and on several youtube videos, (well, I think it is but obviously something is wrong) the light is always on. The switch is working fine, but the light doesn't go off when the switch is open. What have I got wrong? Thanks in advance!

Pics or explanation of how you wired it would help if you want some feedback.

With a single pole switch it will just open and close as you throw the switch. You would keep your grounds and nuetrals going from the power source to the light and ground the switch. The hot wire is the one you are switching so you will put each leg on the terminals of the switch.
 

Raddock

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Cooper-pilot-switch-600.jpg

This is the diagram that I'm following. Black lead in to "hot side", green to ground; black load to brass screw on odd side and common (white) ganged to silver screw and white from appliance. But the light is always on, and I want it to only be on when the switch is "closed"
 

michaelrc51

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Looks ok but most single pole switches aren't using the nuetral leed.
Verify that you have the correct terminals with a meter. Also verify the switch works with your meter
 

Raddock

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Cooper-pilot-switch-600.jpg

This is the diagram that I'm following. Black lead in to "hot side", green to ground; black load to brass screw on odd side and common (white) ganged to silver screw and white from appliance. But the light is always on, and I want it to only be on when the switch is "closed"


Just as a follow up; I tried rewiring the switches that I had every possible way and they wouldn't work as I wanted (light was always on when they had power whether switch was on or off). As a last resort, I got two new switches at Lowe's which were Pass and Seymour 692's. Wired them up as above and they work perfectly, so I guess the switches that I had at first were just the wrong kind :( I didn't keep the boxes so I can't warn you what to avoid.
 

Paul B

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To make that pilot light work only when you have the switch on, you have to break off that little fin and run a wire from the other brass screw on the right side of your diagram to that screw to the left of the light. Other wise it is always on. They do that because there are various things and wiring methods you can do with that switch. :)
(Master electrician 40 years)
 

reef_junkie

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I would like to make a DJ power strip. I've seen whats available on ebay and id rather have solid wire. Is there a diagram for this available somwhere.
Thanks in advance.
 

michaelrc51

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To make that pilot light work only when you have the switch on, you have to break off that little fin and run a wire from the other brass screw on the right side of your diagram to that screw to the left of the light. Other wise it is always on. They do that because there are various things and wiring methods you can do with that switch. :)
(Master electrician 40 years)


Lol, didn't even notice the "jumper" there. Guess you can tell I work mostly with low voltage, only home wiring sometimes. Same principles but very different.
 

Raddock

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To make that pilot light work only when you have the switch on, you have to break off that little fin and run a wire from the other brass screw on the right side of your diagram to that screw to the left of the light. Other wise it is always on. They do that because there are various things and wiring methods you can do with that switch. :)
(Master electrician 40 years)

I saw the jumper and tried breaking it off, thinking that if the light went out, I could put in a jumper as you suggested, but the light stayed on so I was afraid that I'd short out the system if I started jumping between poles :) The 692 just worked and was easy to see from the diagram what needed to go where.
 

revhtree

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I can't recommend them enough. I was fortunate to survive a crash from being electrocuted due to a short in a heater.
56e30c134dde50c57ee3f776d85ad8ca.jpg
5aadfd65047ad2e89c5154b3a5ffb45e.jpg
e36fba46c8be8914d7518a2cab0ad0ef.jpg


I totally missed this! What exactly happened?
 

domination2580

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I totally missed this! What exactly happened?
Well a heater i had bought used happened to have a short in it. I took apart the overflow box to fix the hose connection. Had to let it dry so put the used heater in the dt. Went to mess with a coral. Both hands went in and started getting electrocuted. Was not able to let go of the tank due to the electricity. Ended up pulling the entire tank on top of me. Crashed the system, ended up getting stitches. Was not a pleasant experience. Which is why i try to tell people to use gfi and ground probes. That way they wont learn the hard way like i did. :)
 

shoelaceike

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Hi, can electricity transfer through plastic. Meaning, if I dip a plastic cup into a tank with leaking voltage without touching my skin to to the water, can I still get electrocuted? Also if I was wearing a plastic glove. Thank you
 

Joey waid

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Hi, can electricity transfer through plastic. Meaning, if I dip a plastic cup into a tank with leaking voltage without touching my skin to to the water, can I still get electrocuted? Also if I was wearing a plastic glove. Thank you

Why risk it, just turn off the power. Plastic and rubber are insulators.
 

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