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Brew12

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Can I safely 'tap' into the 220v line in the attic and run it over to my garage? If so, do I need to change my compressor over to a 3 pin plug to make this an easier/safer installation?
I wouldn't recommend doing that. It would be acceptable to do per the NEC if you made the splice in a properly listed enclosure. It may not be per code based on your local codes. I would either cut back the old cable and run it intact to the location you wanted the new receptacle or run an entire new cable from your breaker panel to the receptacle location.
I would then match the receptacle to what the air compressor is designed to use.
 

Turbo's Aquatics

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This answers a big question for me, one situation I was looking at was a 200g+ tank with 2x external Iwaki pumps that has been blowing one pump after another over 6 months, first a skimmer pump, then an algae scrubber pump, then 2 power heads, then another (new) scrubber pump...I figured it has to be some kind of leaky electrical device that is the culprit, either that or just really bad luck. So I didn't want to put the Iwakis on GFCI but everything else, yes. Looks like I can do that plus add the grounding probe and be OK...yes?
 

Brew12

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This answers a big question for me, one situation I was looking at was a 200g+ tank with 2x external Iwaki pumps that has been blowing one pump after another over 6 months, first a skimmer pump, then an algae scrubber pump, then 2 power heads, then another (new) scrubber pump...I figured it has to be some kind of leaky electrical device that is the culprit, either that or just really bad luck. So I didn't want to put the Iwakis on GFCI but everything else, yes. Looks like I can do that plus add the grounding probe and be OK...yes?
I don't think you are ever worse off by adding a grounding probe. The range of faults that could be made worse by a grounding probe is very small.

I would be more worried about your home electrical system. I would check a few things. First, I would make sure you don't have a large voltage drop from however you are powering your pumps. If you have corrosion in a receptacle it can cause a high resistance which will drop voltage. This will cause your pumps to pull more current and can cause premature failure. If you run your equipment off of a power strip the easiest way to check for this is taking a voltage reading at an unused outlet on it with everything running.
A less likely problem could be with your homes neutral connection. Having your lights flicker when you start a vacuum cleaner or an electric clothes dryer is a pretty common sign of this condition.
 

Brew12

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It's actually in a restaurant. No problems for years and then one after another
I would definitely check for a voltage drop feeding the equipment then. If it has been in place for years it is very possible to be a corrosion issue. Possibly inside the receptacle itself.
 

Turbo's Aquatics

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LED - Reefbreeders. The first thing to go was the RKL. Kept resetting/rebooting over and over. Replaced that. Then the skimmer pump shorted, that one I discovered as I was reaching into the tank to take out a bad power head. Replaced that pump, everything was fine for a while. Then scrubber pump, another power head, another scrubber pump, something like that....old die-hard Tunze power heads with the kill-your-finger magnets and Jebao WPs are the power heads that fried. I think one of the Tunze PHs is still in there, the WPs all fried (the control panels) now there is a Sicce Voyager in there, last I heard still working...just an odd set of occurrences
 

Brew12

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LED - Reefbreeders. The first thing to go was the RKL. Kept resetting/rebooting over and over. Replaced that. Then the skimmer pump shorted, that one I discovered as I was reaching into the tank to take out a bad power head. Replaced that pump, everything was fine for a while. Then scrubber pump, another power head, another scrubber pump, something like that....old die-hard Tunze power heads with the kill-your-finger magnets and Jebao WPs are the power heads that fried. I think one of the Tunze PHs is still in there, the WPs all fried (the control panels) now there is a Sicce Voyager in there, last I heard still working...just an odd set of occurrences
I'm pretty sure he was referring to the building lighting, not the tank lighting. ;)

Having a large number of fluorescent lights in a building with not much other load can cause power quality issues. Specifically voltage spikes (which can break down insulation) and higher order harmonics (generate heat).
 

RamsReef

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I would either,
Call the utility and ask for a power quality assessment
Rent a power quality meter
Hire an electrician to do a power quality assesment
 

JBradford

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I wouldn't recommend doing that. It would be acceptable to do per the NEC if you made the splice in a properly listed enclosure. It may not be per code based on your local codes. I would either cut back the old cable and run it intact to the location you wanted the new receptacle or run an entire new cable from your breaker panel to the receptacle location.
I would then match the receptacle to what the air compressor is designed to use.

In other words, call an electrician and have it done right and not by me.
 

Brew12

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In other words, call an electrician and have it done right and not by me.
That is typically the best advice I could offer. It shouldn't be too expensive or time consuming and you can feel reasonably sure it was done right. People trying to do their own wiring can often lead to fires. :(
 

RamsReef

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That is typically the best advice I could offer. It shouldn't be too expensive or time consuming and you can feel reasonably sure it was done right. People trying to do their own wiring can often lead to fires. :(
Fire in the heart when I show up with my sweet bod.
 

Ayzel1

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After 25 years experiance on the field and 15 years at the office, as an electrican I think I can answer most of your questions.

Thanks to my fellow electricians for helping answering your question's.
And the team is:

Myself and
anemonekeeper



:wink:

Good evening and thank you for offering your expertise. I am trying to upgrade my lighting in order for me to get an anemone for my clown and for me to start looking into getting corals. I currently have a 5' stock canopy with my tank that holds a t8 florescent bulb and I would like to retrofit the canopy so I can upgrade to a t5ho bulb, and if I can accomplish this, then my plan will be to add (if I can find it) another canopy to supplement the white light with a blue light. Any suggestions?
Image1484886748.953996.jpg
Image1484886791.600346.jpg
 

Be102

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So I have an outlet, which is in a pretty tough place to reach.. it also only gives me power from only the bottom outlet itself.. ( 2 3-pronged outlets) Wondering what I could do to figure out what the problem is, and how to fix it. I am planning on tearing my tank down, and switching stands so I will be able to work with it for a little bit.. just unsure what to prepare and whatnot.
 

Brew12

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Good evening and thank you for offering your expertise. I am trying to upgrade my lighting in order for me to get an anemone for my clown and for me to start looking into getting corals. I currently have a 5' stock canopy with my tank that holds a t8 florescent bulb and I would like to retrofit the canopy so I can upgrade to a t5ho bulb, and if I can accomplish this, then my plan will be to add (if I can find it) another canopy to supplement the white light with a blue light. Any suggestions?
Image1484886748.953996.jpg
Image1484886791.600346.jpg
I would love to try and help I am an LED guy. Can I recommend creating a new thread in the DIY area where it might get more attention?
 

Brew12

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So I have an outlet, which is in a pretty tough place to reach.. it also only gives me power from only the bottom outlet itself.. ( 2 3-pronged outlets) Wondering what I could do to figure out what the problem is, and how to fix it. I am planning on tearing my tank down, and switching stands so I will be able to work with it for a little bit.. just unsure what to prepare and whatnot.
It is most likely a problem in the receptacle itself. I would plan on changing it out when you gain access to it.

It could have either internal or external jumpers from the bottom to top receptacle. Sounds like at least one of them is corroded.
 

Be102

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It is most likely a problem in the receptacle itself. I would plan on changing it out when you gain access to it.

It could have either internal or external jumpers from the bottom to top receptacle. Sounds like at least one of them is corroded.
What would you recommend I pick up from the store? Not very electrical savvy
 

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