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mcarroll

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Here's the unit I've been using recently:
Tower Manufacturing 30339015 15 amp GFCI 5-Outlet Adapter: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
41RzEkeAo4L._SL500_AA300_.jpg


I kinda mis-remembered earlier...it's only 5-outlets due to the GFCI in the middle. Belkin makes a non-GFCI version of this that I've also used a lot...which does have 6 outlets. :juggle:

-Matt
 

ChouDawg

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Just found this thread, hopefully someone can help me.

My tank is on a single outlet in my dining room, I have one DJ switch which powers all of my equipment. This circuit is connected with my kitchen recessed ceiling CFLs (4x), as well as my microwave. All of this is on a 15A breaker.

My issue is when I use my microwave for more than 5 minutes it trips the breaker. Killing power to my tank, microwave etc. My appliances in the kitchen are on a separate larger breaker. I did replace my range hood (fan/mini light) only and wired my over the stove microwave in its place so I'm guessing I'm drawing a lot more current with the microwave than when it was just the range hood.

I was wondering what the best approach to resolving this issue is? I know I need to either change out the breaker to a larger one or move the microwave to a different breaker. Not sure which of these is easier I'm guessing the first option.

Thanks in advance!
 

Sacohen

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Well changing out the breaker is not difficult, but you have to keep in mind that the wire that was run may only be rated for 15A and putting a 20A breaker on it may be hazardous.
 

skinz78

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Just found this thread, hopefully someone can help me.

My tank is on a single outlet in my dining room, I have one DJ switch which powers all of my equipment. This circuit is connected with my kitchen recessed ceiling CFLs (4x), as well as my microwave. All of this is on a 15A breaker.

My issue is when I use my microwave for more than 5 minutes it trips the breaker. Killing power to my tank, microwave etc. My appliances in the kitchen are on a separate larger breaker. I did replace my range hood (fan/mini light) only and wired my over the stove microwave in its place so I'm guessing I'm drawing a lot more current with the microwave than when it was just the range hood.

I was wondering what the best approach to resolving this issue is? I know I need to either change out the breaker to a larger one or move the microwave to a different breaker. Not sure which of these is easier I'm guessing the first option.

Thanks in advance!

I would hire an electrician and have them install a dedicated circuit to your microwave. In new construction all micro/hoods are on their own circuits now a days, they draw up to 15 amps just by themselves.
 

mcarroll

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+2 for the last two posts ;)

Hire an electrician to get dedicated circuits for your tank and microwave.

Definitely sounds worthwhile.

-Matt
 

ChouDawg

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Thanks all for the quick input. Does anyone know the average cost of having something like that done? A friend of mine that's done some electrical work on his own told me to check the gauge of the wiring on that circuit and see if it's rated to handle the load then change the breaker if appropriate, is this incorrect?
 

skinz78

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Usually whoever wired the house puts the correct sized breaker on the wire.... I don't suggest upsizing the breaker. It's like putting a band aid on a jugular wound LOL...
 

ChouDawg

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Usually whoever wired the house puts the correct sized breaker on the wire.... I don't suggest upsizing the breaker. It's like putting a band aid on a jugular wound LOL...

Yes, that would be a valid assumption but that's like assuming any built/manufactured product is the best/most optimal it can be which we of course know isn't true. I'm sure three decades ago when my building was built, electrical usage was significantly less than it is today. This might lead them to put in a lower rated breaker because 15A might have been considered higher than average usage. Again I'm not an electrician so I don't know if 15A circuits are "standard" which is why I am in this thread in the first place.

I know the correct path would be to hire a trained and certified electrician to "tell me what I need" but I'm sure like many other forum goers/reefers we tend to like to learn and do things on our own. I'm not trying to bypass proper safety in favor of convenience and price but if I can take the necessary steps to insure my wiring is adequate I see no fault in opting for the simpler self performed solution. That being said, anyone with a legitimate Electrical background care to point me in the right direction please?
 

Sacohen

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Also an electrician is not going to bid a project with 20A wire when they only need 15A.

The lower the price the better chance of them getting the job.
 

skinz78

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LOL I am an electrician... 14 years and counting now...

We wire houses with 20 amp wire exclusively. But that's just how we roll and really the larger wire isn't much more expensive.
 

newjack0000

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hello. I am a master electrician and licensed in 26 states. I do residential, commercial and industrial. 14 AWG is standard on older houses. In a good hand full of states its now code to use 12 AWG on new houses or houses with 12 AWG as standard. The true pro con to 12 - 14 AWG is 12 can take more heat being good for less chance of overloading. 14 is good because it saves money for smaller loads but bad because it overloads a lot easier. I personally recommend using 12 AWG on any new install. People will argue or agree weather I recommend 12 or 14 AWG. If your looking to be "more safe" with any gauge, get GFI breakers. Note you cannot put a GFI receptacle on the same circuit as a GFI breaker. You can only do one or the other.
 

prsnlty

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I have a question :) I have an retro icecap 440 ballast with t5 endcaps, 2 new ati 60" bulbs tek2 reflectors. The ballast is good and used it with 2 T12s previously. I simply changed out the end caps and placed them inside the new canopy. I am thinking something is not wired correctly or I may have pinched a wire.

1st after installing and putting in the 1st bulb it didn't come on. and with my t12s it didn't matter if the other bulb wasn't installed or blown the other would be lit. but it did come on after I added the second bulb. (brain is saying something isn't right but they're on). After 3 days they turned off and do not come back on. I unplugged them until I had some time to deal with it. I inadvertently plugged them back in instead of my pump after a WC and the t5 plug arced. OK, so it seems I have a short, yes?
 

newjack0000

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the T5 plug your talking about is called a tombstone. The tombstone does not usually arc unless it is damaged or something metal is stuck in there. An arc can be something minor or major it depends on how bad. Was it just a little jolt like when plugging something into a receptacle that's already on or a flash arc like sparks flew and sounded like an explosion?

Could be.

flash arc can be caused by any of these: Metal object stuck in there, damage, bad ballast or a dead short. There could be others but the list goes on.

I am leaning towards a bad ballast. If one light does no come on until both bulbs are in and it does the same in reverse and it went out then back on after a long reset aaand you had an arc. I would suggest getting a new ballast. Sorry I know that sucks.
 

newjack0000

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sorry forgot to add. If you want you can send me a pic exposing all the wires and connections. That way I can rule out dead shorts.
 
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