A Dinoflagellate Treatment Guide

LMSquire

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You are welcome. Sorry about the losses. Dinos in high nutrient systems is less common but does happen. I have seen it happen often in systems that were "treated" for cyanobacteria with something like Chemiclean. Despite the marketing, it is not a probiotic but an antibiotic -- erythromycin. It kills bacterial surface competitors leaving the door open for dinos.

Go slow on the phosphate reduction. Your corals slowly acclimated to the increasing levels and will stress if you reduce to quickly. Running carbon in the system is fine. It does nothing to directly affect dinos, it just helps minimize/remove some of the toxins they can produce. The phosphate binder does not remain in the system very long at all. It (Lanthanam chloride) binds almost immediately to phosphate and settles out as a precipitate crystal. It is a good idea to does to a sock to capture that stuff.

Did you do the coffee filter test to confirm it is dinos versus chrysophytes?
Not yet, I actually just received my little $49 Amazon microscope w iPhone capability and some osteindishes so as soon as my back slams give me a break I’m gonna check and find out what I have exactly. Would you remind me exactly where to post the picture that I get for the quickest identification? I remember reading it somewhere but can’t remember where it was. Thanks!
 

thedon986

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Not yet, I actually just received my little $49 Amazon microscope w iPhone capability and some osteindishes so as soon as my back slams give me a break I’m gonna check and find out what I have exactly. Would you remind me exactly where to post the picture that I get for the quickest identification? I remember reading it somewhere but can’t remember where it was. Thanks!
It seems like you’re saying they’re on rocks and sand? You may have two types. I have only experienced the rocks or sand type, but not at the same time. For the sand type, there is an amphidinium Dino thread that focuses mostly on the sand type.

You can post up your scope pics here and we can try to help you.
 

ScottB

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Not yet, I actually just received my little $49 Amazon microscope w iPhone capability and some osteindishes so as soon as my back slams give me a break I’m gonna check and find out what I have exactly. Would you remind me exactly where to post the picture that I get for the quickest identification? I remember reading it somewhere but can’t remember where it was. Thanks!
You can post it here and I will get notified. But the "big" thread google "Dinoflagellates are you tired" and it will pop.
 

BillFish Coral Lover

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First off, thank you for all the hard work and preparing that article. That must’ve taken you a very long time

So I have been battling dinos and my 25 gallon lagoon for about the past two weeks. They’re beginning to kill my torches, already took out one gorgeous torch, my zoas, including my new GMK and exosphere zoas and my eclectus mushrooms aren’t even opening now, all of which were not cheap.
Good luck and Godspeed.
 

dochoot

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I do and almost completely resolved in several days with modest basic intervention.
 

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bBurn18

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Thanks for writing this up. I read this and many other posts last night, so I'm not sure if I read it here or elsewhere, but I must share this for others.

If you are using a Hanna ULR Phosphate checker, IF YOU HAVE DOSED ANY SILICATE SUPPLEMENT, THE CHECKER WILL RETURN FALSE HIGH RESULTS!

I thought I was at near .30 PO4 ppm and when I tested with a standard dropper test kit, I was 0.01ppm!

I'm frustrated for not knowing that but very happy to learn as this explains everything that was previously making me scratch my head as to why things have gotten worse the last few weeks when it felt like I was close to eradicating them and being done with it.

Back to the basics described in this guide, but this time I will win!
 

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