Clown fish white spot

HarryH72

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Hi all,

I have just today lost my female clown fish to presumed white spot. We have been treating the pair for 10 days now with reef safe medic however I don’t think it was in time sadly. She had it quite badly all over and now the male has it bad where he didn’t before. All of this stemmed from 2 heaters both faulty from manufacturer overheating the tank which has already killed 3 of my other fish. I’m new to the hobby and didn’t realise it was overheating and not clicking off till it was too late. I’m absolutely devastated as this is the 4th fish I’ve lost. Is there anything I can do as a last ditch attempt to save the male clown? I have upped the dose of reef medic a few days ago. I’ve done a water test and all parameters are okay and the temp has been okay for over a week now.
Thanks

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Mr. Mojo Rising

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Your fish has disease. Is it in the main tank or a QT tank? If its in the main tank, it needs to be moved out, then the tank should be fishless so the disease can die out, or else any fish you add can catch disease and die.

Its questionable if that medic stuff even works


#fishmedics will have more suggestion for you
 
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HarryH72

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It’s in the DT. I’ve only got 3 chromis and a damsel left and was under the impression they don’t really get affected by white spot. They have been in the same tank for a while now and all the others appear okay. I don’t have a tank to quarantine him in unfortunately.
 
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Reefing4L

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looks like brook
 
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Sharkbait19

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The picture is too blue to tell anything. Posting pictures under white lights will help a lot.
Reef medic is made up of H2O2. In order to be considered reef safe, it has to be dosed at so low a level that it is ineffective against ich.
You’re better off treating all fish (chromis and damsels can easily get it) in qt with copper for 30 days and leaving the display tank fishless for 60 days.
 
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HarryH72

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The picture is too blue to tell anything. Posting pictures under white lights will help a lot.
Reef medic is made up of H2O2. In order to be considered reef safe, it has to be dosed at so low a level that it is ineffective against ich.
You’re better off treating all fish (chromis and damsels can easily get it) in qt with copper for 30 days and leaving the display tank fishless for 60 days.
Is that any better?
 

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Sharkbait19

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Personally, I’m seeing late-stage ich (but brook is also a possibility). What other fish died? Usually brook will affect clowns first. How did the fish act? Any heavy breathing or lethargy?
 
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HarryH72

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Personally, I’m seeing late-stage ich (but brook is also a possibility). What other fish died? Usually brook will affect clowns first. How did the fish act? Any heavy breathing or lethargy?
So far a white sand sifting goby, a regal tang, royal grammar, now the female clown. The first three was when the tank was consistently being overheated by the faulty heater so I wasn’t sure whether their deaths were to do with that. He’s mouth breathing more than normal, but still apears to be swimming around fine. When the clown died it had two large almost stripes of white across its body which it didn’t have when it was alive.
 
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Sharkbait19

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If the fish that died when the heaters broke, then it is likely that the stress from the heaters was enough to weaken the fish’s immune systems for disease to take hold.
 
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