There isn't much information on the Eshopps Nano Refugium so I wanted to share my experience with it. I have more details on my build thread as far as my tank setup. I started my tank up a few weeks ago and was using a 5.5 gallon sump, it worked but I wanted more security. In return I lost all of the real estate inside my stand, but at the same time I added more water volume and the extra room for back flow makes up for it. I haven't got the sump setup yet as I am in the process of redoing my plumbing (The tank is cycling and running with an mp10 only at the moment).
Typically these run in the $200 range, I was able to find one for $150 shipped. I feel as though $150 is a small price to pay which reduces my chances of overflowing the sump. I'll be running a Eshopps PSK75 skimmer which requires 8" of water, the 5.5 gallon sump could handle this requirement but left me with only a gallon or so of "extra" space in the sump. The Nano Refugium's skimmer section is setup out of the box for 8" of water. The cube is 14x14x16, whereas the 5.5 gallon was about 10 inches high. The addition of the filter sock will be determined but I now have a much better location for my heater (refugium section). The Nano Refugium also provides the fug section, I have no immediate plans to run it as it's intended purpose but I have the option if I decide to later on.
Immediately the only con I have is the fact that the acrylic in the sump is white. It does look nice, as far as functionality I've now lost my ability to keep an eye on the water level in both the drain section and return section. I'll probably add a mirror inside the stand just so I can view it, I think if I keep the tank topped off I won't have any issues with the pump running dry.
The sump came with a bulk head installed, I removed this bulk head. I'll probably end up cutting the hole larger since I am running a herbie drain on my tank. Had I bought the sump when I setup the tank I could have reduced the amount of plumbing involved, and since my main drain is on the right, both the main and emergency drains have to cross one another to drain in the appropriate manner.
Lucky me I used unions because my plumbing has to be changed for the new sump!
The sump comes with a bulk head installed, I took the bulk head out and have a few options. In order for my drain to work as I want/need it to I'll either need to use two 90 degree elbows or I can cut the platform that held the bulk head on. If I cut it I can run two 45's instead of the 90's. Let me know if you have any opinions or suggestions!
The black line is the main (siphon) drain, the red is my emergency drain. The emergency drain is routed into the return chamber to ensure the pump doesn't run dry. Although with the new sump and the higher water level this shouldn't be an issue. You can also see in the picture my main drain is in the hole I want/need to modify. As it is right now I am unable to remove this drain without titling the sump forward.
I Initially used my API freshwater test kit to keep track of my cycle. Last week I picked up the RedSea test kit for comparison and to verify that my test have been accurate. All along both tests have been consistent and read the same results.
Typically these run in the $200 range, I was able to find one for $150 shipped. I feel as though $150 is a small price to pay which reduces my chances of overflowing the sump. I'll be running a Eshopps PSK75 skimmer which requires 8" of water, the 5.5 gallon sump could handle this requirement but left me with only a gallon or so of "extra" space in the sump. The Nano Refugium's skimmer section is setup out of the box for 8" of water. The cube is 14x14x16, whereas the 5.5 gallon was about 10 inches high. The addition of the filter sock will be determined but I now have a much better location for my heater (refugium section). The Nano Refugium also provides the fug section, I have no immediate plans to run it as it's intended purpose but I have the option if I decide to later on.
Immediately the only con I have is the fact that the acrylic in the sump is white. It does look nice, as far as functionality I've now lost my ability to keep an eye on the water level in both the drain section and return section. I'll probably add a mirror inside the stand just so I can view it, I think if I keep the tank topped off I won't have any issues with the pump running dry.
The sump came with a bulk head installed, I removed this bulk head. I'll probably end up cutting the hole larger since I am running a herbie drain on my tank. Had I bought the sump when I setup the tank I could have reduced the amount of plumbing involved, and since my main drain is on the right, both the main and emergency drains have to cross one another to drain in the appropriate manner.
Lucky me I used unions because my plumbing has to be changed for the new sump!
The sump comes with a bulk head installed, I took the bulk head out and have a few options. In order for my drain to work as I want/need it to I'll either need to use two 90 degree elbows or I can cut the platform that held the bulk head on. If I cut it I can run two 45's instead of the 90's. Let me know if you have any opinions or suggestions!
The black line is the main (siphon) drain, the red is my emergency drain. The emergency drain is routed into the return chamber to ensure the pump doesn't run dry. Although with the new sump and the higher water level this shouldn't be an issue. You can also see in the picture my main drain is in the hole I want/need to modify. As it is right now I am unable to remove this drain without titling the sump forward.
I Initially used my API freshwater test kit to keep track of my cycle. Last week I picked up the RedSea test kit for comparison and to verify that my test have been accurate. All along both tests have been consistent and read the same results.
