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I was literally on another tab looking for that and continuous temp right when it was posted lol.That was a fast bump lol. I've been doing research on this before and seems like Pinpoint is the most popular.
Good question. I also am curious about PH monitors. Seems like they're very hit or miss. I see customer reviews; some say works great others say junk. Seems to be with all products. Some are $10 some are $100. And it looks like most have to be calibrated too. And the electrodes need to be replaced after a certain amount of tests, and do they need a solution like the Hanna checkers do? For all the BS it seems like my RedSea PH kit will be easier and less expensive. Idk, I would love to have a digital read out for PH but who knows how well they work. Curious of everyones reply. Thanks for asking the question.What kind of continuous pH monitor are you using? I’m looking for one and there are so many out there and I’m not sure which one to get. I’m looking for one that is continuous not just a tester.
Should consider a PH controller, it not only monitors, but need be, can dispense chemicals.What kind of continuous pH monitor are you using? I’m looking for one and there are so many out there and I’m not sure which one to get. I’m looking for one that is continuous not just a tester.
How about some info? Price tag? Brand? Do you need to calibrate it? Does it run on batteries? And personally I would not dose PH buffer. If PH is off it's usually an underlying issue. Dosing PH buffer will not fix the problem only put a bandaid on it and potentially cause other issues down the road.
There's different chemical than buffers out there for PH control. Price $249. batteries or power pack. And who said about buffer, not me. In systems with $20,000+ in corals, either calcium reactor, or kalkwasser and/or commercial product, like TritonHow about some info? Price tag? Brand? Do you need to calibrate it? Does it run on batteries? And personally I would not dose PH buffer. If PH is off it's usually an underlying issue. Dosing PH buffer will not fix the problem only put a bandaid on it and potentially cause other issues down the road.
Boom well said! I trust your answer.There's different chemical than buffers out there for PH control. Price $249. batteries or power pack. And who said about buffer, not me. In systems with $20,000+ in corals, either calcium reactor, or kalkwasser and/or commercial product, like Triton
I have an old Hanna ph meter and a realativly new milwaulkee ph meter with a new apex probe.Good question. I also am curious about PH monitors. Seems like they're very hit or miss. I see customer reviews; some say works great others say junk. Seems to be with all products. Some are $10 some are $100. And it looks like most have to be calibrated too. And the electrodes need to be replaced after a certain amount of tests, and do they need a solution like the Hanna checkers do? For all the crap it seems like my RedSea PH kit will be easier and less expensive. Idk, I would love to have a digital read out for PH but who knows how well they work. Curious of everyones reply. Thanks for asking the question.
What about one of the $25 pocket ones on Amazon or Ebay? Think it's worth it or should I just stick with the RedSea kit? It is one of the easiest tests to preform out of all of them. I guess it would just be nice to pull out a pen meter, stick it in the tank and get an instant reading. Do you like your Hanna? I assume you're talking about the red meat thermometer looking one. I was looking at those. Not to badly priced @ $30 but is it worth it in your opinion? I would love an Apex or Reefbot but I don't want to spend that kind of money on a 15 gallon nano tank.I have an old Hanna ph meter and a realativly new milwaulkee ph meter with a new apex probe.
Almost never use them.
The apex probe is better than the old Hanna but both read the same.
Mostly use it to test carx effleunt and my tanks ph swing morning to nite.
Do note use a ph probe or controller on my carx.
They do need to be calibrated and cleaned often if they are used in a continuos mode.
My hanna is a dual ph and tds meter.What about one of the $25 pocket ones on Amazon or Ebay? Think it's worth it or should I just stick with the RedSea kit? It is one of the easiest tests to preform out of all of them. I guess it would just be nice to pull out a pen meter, stick it in the tank and get an instant reading. Do you like your Hanna? I assume you're talking about the red meat thermometer looking one. I was looking at those. Not to badly priced @ $30 but is it worth it in your opinion? I would love an Apex or Reefbot but I don't want to spend that kind of money on a 15 gallon nano tank.
That's good advise. My tank is only 4 weeks old so I'm still learning it's movements but my swings are actually the same. Never below 7.9 never above 8.2...at least yet. I have a refugium that I run a nano bag of ChemiPure Blue (Carbon and Phosphate remover) in the return chamber. The center main chamber I have a Chaeto ball and 2 Mangroves to help stabilization. I also run the grow light at night. I haven't tested the PH since the addition of the ChemiPure but I did just order an Apera PH20 tester pen for $28 off ebay (brand new). Read all about them and how to keep it calibrated. I'll report back how it works. Thanks for sharing your knowledge man!My hanna is a dual ph and tds meter.
My milwaukee is ph only probe type.
You can get one on ebay for under $100.
Not a fan of stick ph meters but they are ok if you can calibrate them.
What you are using now is fine.
I amost never use mime to check tank ph as it is alway a 7.9-8.2 swing and I dont worry about it.
Agree. This is what I use, except I have the combo Milwaukee pH / ORP controller. Always on, you can see your pH in real time. I don’t have anything set up on the pH controller yet, but I have been thinking about dosing kalk to increase pH, when soda ash isn’t quite getting pH raised enough.
My PH has been very stable and I don't foresee any issues with having to buffer it (although you never know). But still my tank is a small nano and I don't expect to see any wild PH swings. There's no reason and as well I do everything I can to help to stabilize it. Running an air stone in my skimmer and my lights at night opposite to main display lights on my refugium which also helps balance PH. I also dose Alk at night which I also read can help as well.Agree. This is what I use, except I have the combo Milwaukee pH / ORP controller. Always on, you can see your pH in real time. I don’t have anything set up on the pH controller yet, but I have been thinking about dosing kalk to increase pH, when soda ash isn’t quite getting pH raised enough.
I always thought my pH was stable too. I have close to 400 gallons in my system, and I was surprised to see how much it actually fluctuates. I do the same thing, with a 40 gallon fuge full of chaeto that runs counter to daylight and outside air feeding my skimmer. I only got that pH monitor a few months ago, after having not tested pH in over 20 years. It’s one of those things that once you see it, you can’t help trying to fix it. I didn’t realize (for way too many years) how low my alk and pH were. So you’re ahead of the game by showing interest in it. It is clear that pH can swing and it doesn’t have a huge detrimental effect on a tank, but there is too much evidence that higher pH (8.2ish) is way more optimal than lower pH (7.6ish). So why not try to create the best environment that we can?My PH has been very stable and I don't foresee any issues with having to buffer it (although you never know). But still my tank is a small nano and I don't expect to see any wild PH swings. There's no reason and as well I do everything I can to help to stabilize it. Running an air stone in my skimmer and my lights at night opposite to main display lights on my refugium which also helps balance PH. I also dose Alk at night which I also read can help as well.