How to save coral

[coralcoralcoral10]

After doing a water change and moving tanks to a 144 gallon from a 4 month old 45 gallon my corals don’t look good. All open half way. And some look like they are slowly dying. I’ve been treating with ph+ and prime. And occasionally AB+. But I’ve only done this twice. Lighting is 4 ai primes. Running at 100% 100% 90% 90% 6% 6% 6% 10%. Ammonia levels where a bit high which is why I did a water change. I treated with Amo lock a week ago. Any thing I can do to save my coral there is a lot. Also just got a trumpet coral and I have to keep this alive it’s a must. Parameters are 1.025. PH 7.9-8. Nitrates 0 Nitrates .2 Ammonia .1. Temp 80. I know I have to be patient. But I like spent all my knee on coral and I don’t have the amount to restock

 

[brandon429]

must lower light levels immediately

re ramp as if new leds

When to lower light intensity as a reef tank CPR move

Team, you need to know that being able to revert back to cloudy day/low lighting is the #1 thing you do as tank CPR before any other action. Water charges come after Preventing light sunburn is #1 temperature insults cold and hot. chemical burns, overdoses. events where you think ammonia...

www.reef2reef.com

did you fully rinse your sand before setting back up, was the old sand or new placed in the new tank?

 

[holdthecoffee]

If there’s ammonia, the tank is probably still cycling and isn’t ready for coral. If you know anyone with an established tank that can hold your coral for a bit, that would be my suggestion.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Go to heavy blue lighting and have a trusted LFS verify your Alk-CA,, mag, ph and nitrate levels.
What test kits are you using ?
Cease use of prime. Its an alternative and not solution

 

[brandon429]

the risk is bacterial compounds from the old sand but it looks like new sand


we always adjust down the lights in every job in the tank transfer thread in anticipation of this.

if old sand was moved unrinsed, you‘d run carbon in a canister filter or do a large water change pouring slowly back in over rock top, so the water change doesn’t well up the same metabolites.

dose nothing, add nothing as a doser response. Lights, water change or carbon polishing.

after instating these fixes feed the tank in a few hours a normal feeding run

 

[brandon429]

Your ammonia is in the thousandths it’s specifically not the stated levels above those are misreads. nice call Vette, prime causes misreads and there was no initial spike to warrant the prime, it’s a no TAN stated ammonia reading like all the others


on seneye, this ammonia runs thousandths it’s why the fish are not huddled at the top and the water isn’t milky. follow above directions without customization for the win

lights, water change, carbon, dose nothing stop testing for cycling elements the misreads will veer you away from the directions based on thousands of tank transfers.

you may have bacterial waste compounds if old sand was moved, but not ammonia issues. Reef tanks don’t have ammonia issues. If this is new sand you have light stress only, and nothing toxic.

good info from the posting crew here. The tank will be fine we get twisted wrecked heaps of tanks this is no concern.


if you took that same pic and titled the thread “look how well my transfer went” we’d all be congratulating you, the pic is of a normal reef. Welcome to the torture that is non digital ammonia testing


no reef aquarium display takes more than ten minutes to resolve a one time, non sustained ammonia event. Ammonia never remains uncontrolled for days, thats all misreads.

source for claims, all seneye owners.

 

[coralcoralcoral10]

must lower light levels immediately

re ramp as if new leds

When to lower light intensity as a reef tank CPR move

Team, you need to know that being able to revert back to cloudy day/low lighting is the #1 thing you do as tank CPR before any other action. Water charges come after Preventing light sunburn is #1 temperature insults cold and hot. chemical burns, overdoses. events where you think ammonia...

www.reef2reef.com

did you fully rinse your sand before setting back up, was the old sand or new placed in the new tank?

It is new sand just 2 weeks old. Ok I’ll lower them. Any specific levels?

 

[coralcoralcoral10]

Your ammonia is in the thousandths it’s specifically not the stated levels above those are misreads. nice call Vette, prime causes misreads and there was no initial spike to warrant the prime, it’s a no TAN stated ammonia reading like all the others


on seneye, this ammonia runs thousandths it’s why the fish are not huddled at the top and the water isn’t milky. follow above directions without customization for the win

lights, water change, carbon, dose nothing stop testing for cycling elements the misreads will veer you away from the directions based on thousands of tank transfers.

you may have bacterial waste compounds if old sand was moved, but not ammonia issues. Reef tanks don’t have ammonia issues. If this is new sand you have light stress only, and nothing toxic.

good info from the posting crew here. The tank will be fine we get twisted wrecked heaps of tanks this is no concern.


if you took that same pic and titled the thread “look how well my transfer went” we’d all be congratulating you, the pic is of a normal reef. Welcome to the torture that is non digital ammonia testing


no reef aquarium display takes more than ten minutes to resolve a one time, non sustained ammonia event. Ammonia never remains uncontrolled for days, thats all misreads.

source for claims, all seneye owners.

It is new sand just 2 weeks old. Ok I’ll lower them. Any specific levels?

Also my PH is now 7.9-8 should I keep dosing to raise up the PH. I cut out the prime as of now. Normally I wouldn’t be so worried but this trumpet coral I need to keep alive and a bit of the Skelton was visible today. My torch same but everything else not that problem. I just don’t want to lose this coral it was a gift. I don’t know of anyone to hold my corals but all my fish and inverts they seem fine and happy. Thank you everyone for helping. These forums are game changing

 

[brandon429]

No for sure it’s added stress to dose anything, only the steps above.

people on the web claim crazy stuff I know but this one situation is well patterned check this example

six years continual tank transfers all in one thread with recent updates this week


not one test param all pages isn’t that odd for a reef action thread

Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at...

www.reef2reef.com

it’s because water changes and carbon match well with the compounds a tank transfer will generate


*I used to think ammonia in the bed caused problems too

since seneye came on board though and showed it’s hardly ever free ammonia events we had to pin the locus of loss on bacterial compounds upwelled from waste, when old beds are moved unrinsed. If new beds cause clouding from being unrinsed out of the bag thats harmless but annoying chalk like dust

I bet your issue is purely light stress.

 

[coralcoralcoral10]

No for sure it’s added stress to dose anything, only the steps above.

people on the web claim crazy stuff I know but this one situation is well patterned check this example

six years continual tank transfers all in one thread with recent updates this week


not one test param all pages isn’t that odd for a reef action thread

Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at...

www.reef2reef.com

it’s because water changes and carbon match well with the compounds a tank transfer will generate

Ok as of now the dosing ends. I’m going to lower my lights. 4 ai primes. What would u run them at?

 

[brandon429]

Your call just something lower. It’s a cloudy week on the reef


these moves wouldn’t harm anyone’s tank to run them which is why it’s such a nice fallback

 

[coralcoralcoral10]

Also another random question if you see those 4 wave pumps 2 Nero 3 2 Nero 5 where would you place them and how would u program them. ?

 

[brandon429]

i use a bubbler airline setup from wal mart to run my reef, thats entirely too advanced a pump setup for me to know about


really not joking lol I haven’t ever even seen those in person. If I had a reef larger than eight pounds full running I’d use those, and aim two slightly upward to boil the surface a little and the others just random however

 

[coralcoralcoral10]

Ok thank you. Still so new to this. There is so much information and so many things to get right. This is my first set back but the tank is only 2 weeks old. It’s a little discouraging. I want everything to be ok.

 

[brandon429]

You will be so happy to see the inherent rebound ability of water current + rocks + sand surface area. The fact it’s new sand saved the day it’ll work well and be back to norm next week

the tests really can report all over the place for nitrite and ammonia so it won’t be the kits that decide it’ll be how the tank and corals look

 

[mdb_talon]

I am going to guess the continued use of PH+ is not helping at all as some suggested in your similar posts a few days ago. For now dose nothing as others said. When it is time to dose you need to be monitoring alkalinity(which is what that ph+ is adding)

 

[dvgyfresh]

Dosing for PH also raises alk , have you tested alk recently?

 

[coralcoralcoral10]

I don’t yet but I’ll make sure to pick one up this week? Any suggestions on what to get on Amazon?