Need some Assistance with Cinder Block Stand

[Chrisss]

Hi!

So recently I got a 80 Gallon Deep Blue Aquarium 48x24x16 for a good price. Plan is to upgrade my existing 55 gallon tank to this and move it to the basement. Since we got the tank for a really good price I wanted to keep the savings and build my own stand. So I decided to go with the typical Cinder Block and wood support for the stand. However, I cannot for the life of me line up the corners of the tank with the wood support.

I've re-built it 3 times now and every time the tank is always lifted up either at 1 or more sides on the corners. I know this is a no no when building your cinder block stands so any idea what I can do besides just buying a sheet of wood and attaching it to the wooden stand?

Here are some pictures of what is going on right now.

Any idea or tips are welcome!
Thanks in advanced

 

[Big G]

The floor probably isn't level. The cheapest thing to do is to get some brick mortar mix and use it on the floor to "build" your first row of block. The problem is that first row needs to be perfectly level at all four corners blocks. Have you checked your black & yellow level to make sure it is accurate? Lots of homeowner levels are not very accurate.

 

[redfishbluefish]

I'm not convinced it's the block. I think it's the dimensional lumber that's not straight (level). Put a four foot straight edge/level on your wood frame and I'll bet you find that's the problem.

We are talking about an empty tank on a two by four frame.....minimal weight, no deflection. That to me says bent boards.

 

[Roggio]

Why do a block stand anyway? Pressure treated wood is not expensive. The block takes up a lot of space and could shift. Also, I hope you’re using some kind of lining under the tank. Wood expands and contracts based on temperature and humidity.

 

[Chrisss]

The floor probably isn't level. The cheapest thing to do is to get some brick mortar mix and use it on the floor to "build" your first row of block. The problem is that first row needs to be perfectly level at all four corners blocks. Have you checked your black & yellow level to make sure it is accurate? Lots of homeowner levels are not very accurate.

That's was my first thought after putting the cinder blocks on. But after doing some measurements with the blocks it seems they line up perfectly. Probably only a 1/16 of a inch difference between all of them to my surprise.

And for the level I have another black level also with the yellow one and they seem to give the same readings. Unless both of them are slightly off. So I do not think it is the blocks or the floor which is a relief

 

[Chrisss]

I'm not convinced it's the block. I think it's the dimensional lumber that's not straight (level). Put a four foot straight edge/level on your wood frame and I'll bet you find that's the problem.

We are talking about an empty tank on a two by four frame.....minimal weight, no deflection. That to me says bent boards.

You are right on the wood not being level. It bows up and down slightly probably a 1/8 of a inch which is giving me that gap between the tank and stand. It seems that when the pressure of the tank is on the wooden frame the frame is flat on the cinder blocks but, not flat where the tank sits.

I've tried flipping the wood and roating it, even using different 2x4s to see if that helps but they all seem not to sit flat with the tank. Always flat on the cinder blocks.

 

[Chrisss]

Why do a block stand anyway? Pressure treated wood is not expensive. The block takes up a lot of space and could shift. Also, I hope you’re using some kind of lining under the tank. Wood expands and contracts based on temperature and humidity.

Cheaper really for a block stand. It was only around 40 dollars for the blocks and wood. Complete wood stand would run me more and probably would have the same issue I'm having now.

For the space. I did not really plan on using the bottom of it for a refugium was going to put that next to my tank so I can do water changes automatically. ( Closer to my mixing station)

Also, no wood liner under the tank the frame is slightly bigger then the tank about 1/4 inch though, so I don't think the wood would expand or contract that much. I could be wrong though did not really look in it that much.

 

[Sierra_Bravo]

Is it the angle of the photo or is the corner I'm pointing to raised higher than the adjacent 2x4?

Also - if you have access to a table saw, you can trim the outside edges of the 2x4's by a quarter inch or so to true them up. If it's limited to a couple spots, by using your level you can mark where it's high and knock it down with a belt sander.

 

[Sierra_Bravo]

P.S. > Just an observation: If you ever need to gain access to those cleanouts against the wall you may regret having the tank that close. Might want to move it away from the wall a bit more.

 

[redfishbluefish]

I'd do my best to level out the dimensional....belt sander/power planer....and then top the frame with 3/4 plywood, and shim where needed.

 

[Chrisss]

Is it the angle of the photo or is the corner I'm pointing to raised higher than the adjacent 2x4?

Also - if you have access to a table saw, you can trim the outside edges of the 2x4's by a quarter inch or so to true them up. If it's limited to a couple spots, by using your level you can mark where it's high and knock it down with a belt sander.

P.S. > Just an observation: If you ever need to gain access to those cleanouts against the wall you may regret having the tank that close. Might want to move it away from the wall a bit more.

It is just the angle of the photo the edge of the piece was actually chipped so it looks like it was not level. That was actually the first frame I built. I'm on frame design number 3 or 4 right now. I actually took those double pieces out and now it is just 1 piece of 2x4 instead of doubles on each side. After doing it 3 times I took decided to take all the straightest pieces I could find and build the frame. But the most recent pictures of the tank being lifted is with the new design which is when I decided to post the question and see what people would say.

Also good point with the pipes behind the tank. I left a good 4 inches between the stand and the pipe so hopefully that would be enough if I do ever need to work on it. Might actually move it a little further away.

 

[Chrisss]

I'd do my best to level out the dimensional....belt sander/power planer....and then top the frame with 3/4 plywood, and shim were needed.

That seems like the best solution. Been reading other forum threads and that's what I've seen a few times now. Was trying to skip from buying more plywood!

Most likely if I don't accomplish anything from sanding it and trying to level it out a few more times I'll just given in and buy the plywood and shimmy it in.

Thanks for the input

 

[Big G]

Also good point with the pipes behind the tank. I left a good 4 inches between the stand and the pipe so hopefully that would be enough if I do ever need to work on it. Might actually move it a little further away.

I used to do Roto-Rooter back when I was much, much younger. Need about 2 feet for the snake/rooter line to get in there at a minimum. Trust me, you don't want that cable near glass. Yikes. Good catch Sierra.

 

[Chrisss]

Still don't know about that lining input though. Might be a good idea just to get a water proof one and wrap it around the wood to prevent water stains.

 

[Sierra_Bravo]

Dimensional lumber at the big box stores suck nowadays no matter how hard you try to get straight boards. It's all garbage and you have to go through an entire bundle to find three straight pieces. .. that later twist on you because they weren't fully cured before they sent them out.

I must be getting old - I'm reminiscing about the good ol' days when a man could expect to get a decent 2x4. . .

 

[Chrisss]

I used to do Roto-Rooter back when I was much, much younger. Need about 2 feet for the snake/rooter line to get in there at a minimum. Trust me, you don't want that cable near glass. Yikes. Good catch Sierra.

Yeah I know, did not even think about it. I'll probably move it away more from that left wall just to be safe. Definitely a good catch

Dimensional lumber at the big box stores suck nowadays no matter how hard you try to get straight boards. It's all garbage and you have to go through an entire bundle to find three straight pieces. .. that later twist on you because they weren't fully cured before they sent them out.

I must be getting old - I'm reminiscing about the good ol' days when a man could expect to get a decent 2x4. . .

I know right!!! I probably looked through the whole stack of 2x4's at home depot just to get 4 decent pieces out, and in the end they are all bowed anyways. I'll probably end up having to just but another 2x4 or plywood just to make the wood level because of all the bowing. Not to mention your point of them twisting later down the line.

Not excited to look through a whole stack of wood again ;Dead

 

[dacyums]

Just my two cents.... My setup is for multi tanks in my fish room with 2x4's and cinder block (4" solid half block) I've used for years. I only use single 2x4 rectangle frame. There was a time I used a sheet of styrofoam between the tank and the 2x4's for self leveling. Probably still a good idea but as of 10 years ago I stopped using it. In all the years I have used this system I have never had a tank blow out. I have used this method for up to 125 gal. tanks. As mentioned, good 2x4's are hard to find that are perfect. I found once the tank is filled the weight will level the wood frame. The glass on your tank is quite thick and you would be surprised how strong it is. The advantage for a block stand is it is easy to move, change etc.

 

[Chrisss]

Just my two cents.... My setup is for multi tanks in my fish room with 2x4's and cinder block (4" solid half block) I've used for years. I only use single 2x4 rectangle frame. There was a time I used a sheet of styrofoam between the tank and the 2x4's for self leveling. Probably still a good idea but as of 10 years ago I stopped using it. In all the years I have used this system I have never had a tank blow out. I have used this method for up to 125 gal. tanks. As mentioned, good 2x4's are hard to find that are perfect. I found once the tank is filled the weight will level the wood frame. The glass on your tank is quite thick and you would be surprised how strong it is. The advantage for a block stand is it is easy to move, change etc.

Yeah I decided to go with just the single 2x4's around the frame with a center brace. I was thinking about doing the styrofoam like you said but then decided to just get the 3/4 and place that under the tank to shimmy it to the height I need on the corners. I honestly do not think it would of blown out but I'm just trying to be safe then sorry. If I left it the way it is without anything in between the 2x4 and the tank I honestly think the wood would eventually curve like you said and flatten out. But just to be safe I did buy the 3/4 and slapped it on. I'll probably be finished tomorrow so hopefully I can post a picture once I test it with some water.

Awesome setup though love all the angle fish!

 

[dacyums]

Good luck with the setup!

 

[Chrisss]

Took a while since the holidays were more busy then I expected but here's the final outcome. I put the 3/4 plywood between the frame and the stand and if you can see I shimmed the right side to get it pretty level. The water level is about 1/16 off from one side to the other so I guess I'll take that . Thanks for all the help guys.

Plus I did not need to move it further away because I got plenty of clean out pipes that are pretty close to that one and easier to get too.