NEW/OLD Reef with LPS and coral inssues.

[Douggullo]

ok ok I'll explain this confusion.
First of all i'm from brazil, and had a 100 liters tank for 18 months, perfecly fine and beautifull, till, I've decided to upgrade to a 260 Liters.

Ive done de change to new tank, bringing 50lt from the old tank and 200 of new salt mix ( Reef Cristals).

The first week was a dream, everything was so beatiful and fine. Second week my LPS stared to show shirink and skinny tentacles, normal opened but not inflated.
week 3 i lost one hammer.
week 4 all LPS and some softs are pretty bad a i've decided to remove and put then in a store near my home.

In this mean time i've done ICP test, but till now is not ready.

So we are now on the week 8
My coral are back, they are fine now, but not totally, they started to show the same problem, shrik and skinny tentacles.

My parameters.

AK : 7.8
CA: 420
Mg: 1470
NO3: 10
PO3: 0.025
Amonia : 0
Nitite:0

Id appreciate your help guys

 

[Douggullo]

ATTACHED PHOTO IS FROM WEEK 1

 

[shakacuz]

did the positions of the corals, lights, or rocks change when you upgraded tanks? the change in lights could have triggered an event with them

also, did you use a new salt brand for when you added the 200 liters of water?

lastly, are you sure your tests are accurate? could be bad readings/reagents/test error

 

[Uncle99]

When you added 200 new litres, this may have significantly lowered your organics short term.

In essence, corals go hungry…

 

[Douggullo]

When you added 200 new litres, this may have significantly lowered your organics short term.

In essence, corals go hungry…

Yeah might be, and how to remediate this?

 

[Uncle99]

Yeah might be, and how to remediate this?

Check to make sure Nitrate is in the 5-10ppm range and phosphate in the 0.05-.15ppm range and holding….

Did you change salts?
If so, what’s the differences in parameters?

Very nice look corals BTW.

 

[brandon429]

here is a study in opposites, to help

sixty pages of tank moves with zero losses

the one thing missing in my op: the light lowering trick we used with every tank. I think they're being light burned unless this is a case of random undisclosed undetected contaminants. of things you can do, we know the order that prevents crashing with using any test kits before or after, we use those steps below to run that tank transfer thread. the one thing missing here actually may be both the sand rinse step, transfer no waste among tanks (land at zero organics in the new tank every time but down adjust the light)

Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at...

www.reef2reef.com

the first step you should do now is lower your lighting about -30% and sustain it until you find the other cause, if any.

that's the first step in crash arrest for coral protection, before any other action.

 

[Formulator]

Phosphate is a bit low, suggest bringing that up to 0.1 ppm, especially for LPS. What lighting and flow are you using?

 

[Matt Bravo]

I would assume lighting or flow could be the issue since parms seem acceptable. Did you move rock as well or only water?

 

[Douggullo]

did the positions of the corals, lights, or rocks change when you upgraded tanks? the change in lights could have triggered an event with them

also, did you use a new salt brand for when you added the 200 liters of water?

lastly, are you sure your tests are accurate? could be bad readings/reagents/test error

i've placed lights and rocks back in the same positions. I have two lights now; previously, I had one of the same model.

The salt is new—I’ve never used Reef Crystals before.

For the tests, I performed them myself and also double-checked with tests from the fish store.

In my opinion, just the low nutrient change isn’t enough. I have some clove corals that are not opening at all; they remain closed like a "closed hand"

 

[Douggullo]

here is a study in opposites, to help

sixty pages of tank moves with zero losses

the one thing missing in my op: the light lowering trick we used with every tank. I think they're being light burned unless this is a case of random undisclosed undetected contaminants. of things you can do, we know the order that prevents crashing with using any test kits before or after, we use those steps below to run that tank transfer thread. the one thing missing here actually may be both the sand rinse step, transfer no waste among tanks (land at zero organics in the new tank every time but down adjust the light)

Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at...

www.reef2reef.com

the first step you should do now is lower your lighting about -30% and sustain it until you find the other cause, if any.

that's the first step in crash arrest for coral protection, before any other action.

My ligths are now on 70%, Thanks for the pages.