Nutrient control in smaller tanks

toddb93

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Just wanted to see what others have found to be a successful way to manage nutrients in a tank size 50 gallons and under, particularly with no sump. I have a 38 gallon peninsula that I have been running just about 2 years, and for the last 6 months have been running without using a skimmer. It became more of a hassle than a help. Since then have been managing phosphates with rowaphos (in a media bag)/ Chemipure elite. But I was really wondering if there were any other ways than constantly changing this media every week or so. Any input is always appreciated!
 
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toddb93

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Here’s a shot of the tank!
 

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jayala12

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Do a 5 % water change every two weeks and you will be good to go. I had a 28 gallon biocube and this worked perfect. I now have a 20 gallon nuvo pro and do the same with good results. No skimmer just filter socks and swap those out every Friday. Bought a six pack of those
 
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toddb93

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Do a 5 % water change every two weeks and you will be good to go. I had a 28 gallon biocube and this worked perfect. I now have a 20 gallon nuvo pro and do the same with good results. No skimmer just filter socks and swap those out every Friday. Bought a six pack of those
Thanks for the input! I should have mentioned that. I have been doing a weekly 10% change for the last 2 years as well.
 

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Are you wanting to avoid changing the media due to the cost or just to eliminate a chore you don't particularly enjoy? If it is a cost thing, there are phosphate removal medias that can be regenerated so you can reuse the same media. Check out PhosphatR from Brightwell Aquatics.

If its just the chore you want to eliminate, I don't think there are many or any options. Even with all the greatest tech and automation, reefing still takes some elbow grease from time to time. Especially for nutrient export, its just something we have to keep up with and often involves labor (water changes, media changes, etc).

What is the target nitrate and phosphate level you are trying to achieve? It looks like your tank is predominantly soft coral, so you can get away with MUCH higher nutrient levels than the numbers that are often preached on here.
 
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toddb93

toddb93

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Are you wanting to avoid changing the media due to the cost or just to eliminate a chore you don't particularly enjoy? If it is a cost thing, there are phosphate removal medias that can be regenerated so you can reuse the same media. Check out PhosphatR from Brightwell Aquatics.

If its just the chore you want to eliminate, I don't think there are many or any options. Even with all the greatest tech and automation, reefing still takes some elbow grease from time to time. Especially for nutrient export, its just something we have to keep up with and often involves labor (water changes, media changes, etc).

What is the target nitrate and phosphate level you are trying to achieve? It looks like your tank is predominantly soft coral, so you can get away with MUCH higher nutrient levels than the numbers that are often preached on here.
Appreciate your reply! The last couple years I’ve been keeping the phosphates between .1 and .2, and nitrate has been around 15-20. So I just try to keep it around that since everything in the tank has been used to that for a while. I really don’t mind the process of changing the media, I was just generally interested to see if anybody was using any other methods. But yes the tank is mostly soft coral and LPS. Thanks for reaching out!
 

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Appreciate your reply! The last couple years I’ve been keeping the phosphates between .1 and .2, and nitrate has been around 15-20. So I just try to keep it around that since everything in the tank has been used to that for a while. I really don’t mind the process of changing the media, I was just generally interested to see if anybody was using any other methods. But yes the tank is mostly soft coral and LPS. Thanks for reaching out!
I'd be interested to see what other methods folks might use too. I've been battling high phosphates after a reboot, but the only thing that has worked for me is GFO and getting my nitrates up because I was at zero. From what I've found phosphate can be more difficult to manage than nitrate with more passive and automation friendly strategies.

However, one thing did just pop into my head that could be an option for you - Lanthanum chloride dosing can be set up with an auto dosing pump as long as you have mechanical filtration to remove the precipitate that forms. The potential side effects for some fish and inverts has always scared me, but some people swear by it. I would definitely recommend further research before jumping in.
 
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toddb93

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I'd be interested to see what other methods folks might use too. I've been battling high phosphates after a reboot, but the only thing that has worked for me is GFO and getting my nitrates up because I was at zero. From what I've found phosphate can be more difficult to manage than nitrate with more passive and automation friendly strategies.

However, one thing did just pop into my head that could be an option for you - Lanthanum chloride dosing can be set up with an auto dosing pump as long as you have mechanical filtration to remove the precipitate that forms. The potential side effects for some fish and inverts has always scared me, but some people swear by it. I would definitely recommend further research before jumping in.
The other thing I have been looking at lately as more of an assist was coral snow. I have not tried it yet only because I wasn’t sure if you needed a skimmer while using that as a flocculant. I’ve been told it’s fine with no skimmer but I haven’t given it a try yet.
 
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Have you considered starting carbon dosing?
Been looking at that a lot, but with that I believe you need to be running a skimmer. I currently am not using a skimmer so I don’t think that would work for me. But also I may be wrong on the skimmer part, not sure. If you have any good resources about that I would definitely like to check it out!
 

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I have a 20 gallon waterbox and I do 6 gallons a week. 3 gallons on Tuesdays and 3 gallons on Saturdays. Just a small amount of filter floss, no skimmer. Only thing that keeps my tank from encountering Cyano due to excessive nutrients.
 

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On small aio systems keep it simple.
18" nano cube.
Esv 2 part
DSR ez trace
Phosgaurd in a nylon bag when
needed for po4 control.
Carbon in a nylon bag.
2g WC a month.
Gfo works to but I have used Phosgaurd for 8 years now and its not messy like gfo.
Changing both is simple and easy.
This is the only non sump system I have ever had and the easiest system I have ever maintained in 30+ years.
20220926_094455.jpg
 
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toddb93

toddb93

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I have a 20 gallon waterbox and I do 6 gallons a week. 3 gallons on Tuesdays and 3 gallons on Saturdays. Just a small amount of filter floss, no skimmer. Only thing that keeps my tank from encountering Cyano due to excessive nutrients.
Hey etcee, the coral snow keeps it away or just your water changes?
 
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toddb93

toddb93

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On small aio systems keep it simple.
18" nano cube.
Esv 2 part
DSR ez trace
Phosgaurd in a nylon bag when
needed for po4 control.
Carbon in a nylon bag.
2g WC a month.
Gfo works to but I have used Phosgaurd for 8 years now and its not messy like gfo.
Changing both is simple and easy.
This is the only non sump system I have ever had and the easiest system I have ever maintained in 30+ years.
20220926_094455.jpg
Tank looks great! Really appreciate your input! Thank you
 

Formulator

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Been looking at that a lot, but with that I believe you need to be running a skimmer. I currently am not using a skimmer so I don’t think that would work for me. But also I may be wrong on the skimmer part, not sure. If you have any good resources about that I would definitely like to check it out!
You are correct that you must skim with carbon dosing. Another point I would add is that carbon dosing is very effective at lowering nitrate. It may have a small impact on phosphate, but often can have the opposite effect by bottoming out nitrates. With a nitrate limited tank, phosphates cannot be metabolized and can build up over time creating a worse problem than you started with. Ask me how I know… :grimacing-face:
 
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toddb93

toddb93

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You are correct that you must skim with carbon dosing. Another point I would add is that carbon dosing is very effective at lowering nitrate. It may have a small impact on phosphate, but often can have the opposite effect by bottoming out nitrates. With a nitrate limited tank, phosphates cannot be metabolized and can build up over time creating a worse problem than you started with. Ask me how I know… :grimacing-face:
Thank you for confirming, I’ve been reading more about it recently, seems like the people who get it to work love it.
 

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Your tank is really nice, you've got mainly softies and they all look happy. They will appreciate the dirtier water, even many lps like dirtier water, I would not do any drastic changes. The phosphate level in between .1 and .2 seems perfect to me anyway.

My tanks are 15, 32, and 40 gallons, the 32 and 40 have skimmers because of my bioload, but I always do 5-10 gallon changes weekly on all my tanks (yes I often do 30%-40%-50% water changes)
 
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toddb93

toddb93

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Your tank is really nice, you've got mainly softies and they all look happy. They will appreciate the dirtier water, even many lps like dirtier water, I would not do any drastic changes. The phosphate level in between .1 and .2 seems perfect to me anyway.

My tanks are 15, 32, and 40 gallons, the 32 and 40 have skimmers because of my bioload, but I always do 5-10 gallon changes weekly on all my tanks (yes I often do 30%-40%-50% water changes)
Thank you! Yes I try to be religious with the water changes, I do about 5 gallons weekly. Little more than 10% but it’s just easier to mix one 5 gallon bucket of saltwater a week.
 

lil sumpin

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Thank you! Yes I try to be religious with the water changes, I do about 5 gallons weekly. Little more than 10% but it’s just easier to mix one 5 gallon bucket of saltwater a week.
I second this approach. Aggressive and consistent water changes are the best way. Great lookin tank!
 

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