Parameters and Equipment

Capro

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1. Alright maybe in 2 weeks or more i might change to saltwater, im wondering what parameters are most important to check and how many times a week do guys check? I was planning to go for API Master Kit as it was quite cheap but the reviews are bad. So im gonna go for the Salifert Test Kit, Please let me know which parameters are important. (On a budget)

2. So im planning to convert my Fluval Flex 15 into Saltwater, all my equipment is still the same from what i got Just the sponge at the mid section with same black and white stuff and a pump. What type of filtaration do u guys recommend to keep my tank stable? Ill put a list of what im gonna use

Skimmer - BubbleMagus Mini Q
Light - Aquaknight V2

Im trying to figure out the heater and if i need a wavemaker or not for the corals. Please let me know what parameters are most important and what equipment i should add?
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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1. Alright maybe in 2 weeks or more i might change to saltwater, im wondering what parameters are most important to check and how many times a week do guys check? I was planning to go for API Master Kit as it was quite cheap but the reviews are bad. So im gonna go for the Salifert Test Kit, Please let me know which parameters are important. (On a budget)

2. So im planning to convert my Fluval Flex 15 into Saltwater, all my equipment is still the same from what i got Just the sponge at the mid section with same black and white stuff and a pump. What type of filtaration do u guys recommend to keep my tank stable? Ill put a list of what im gonna use

Skimmer - BubbleMagus Mini Q
Light - Aquaknight V2

Im trying to figure out the heater and if i need a wavemaker or not for the corals. Please let me know what parameters are most important and what equipment i should add?
Read the sticky threads here
 

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Capro

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Sorry! It doesnt really answer my questions, all i could find out is for LPS i only need to look out for Calcium, does that mean i dont have to test the others? I want to know the basic or basically what people would mostly test in an aquarium, is it Nitrate and Ammonia? Ph? Dkh? Thats my question and on the equipment i want everyones opinion on what i could add on the back chambers of the fluval, ive already decided on a skimmer for 1 of the chambers now i need to know for the other. Thanks tho! The Info in there would probably help me out in the future.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Sorry! It doesnt really answer my questions, all i could find out is for LPS i only need to look out for Calcium, does that mean i dont have to test the others? I

Well, that’s not correct and I hope those stickies do not actually say that. Alkalinity is always an important parameter and it goes south far faster than calcium.

Start out with alkalinity, salinity and temperature.

Next is calcium, then nitrate and phosphate.

Ammonia is only useful during cycling. Don’t bother with nitrite testing.
 

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1. Alright maybe in 2 weeks or more i might change to saltwater, im wondering what parameters are most important to check and how many times a week do guys check? I was planning to go for API Master Kit as it was quite cheap but the reviews are bad. So im gonna go for the Salifert Test Kit, Please let me know which parameters are important. (On a budget)

2. So im planning to convert my Fluval Flex 15 into Saltwater, all my equipment is still the same from what i got Just the sponge at the mid section with same black and white stuff and a pump. What type of filtaration do u guys recommend to keep my tank stable? Ill put a list of what im gonna use

Skimmer - BubbleMagus Mini Q
Light - Aquaknight V2

Im trying to figure out the heater and if i need a wavemaker or not for the corals. Please let me know what parameters are most important and what equipment i should add?
My advice on a heater is never cheap out on one. I've seen a few times where someone will cheap out on a heater, it breaks, and then their tank crashes.
 

Devisissy

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So I actually had the fluval set up for five years. My suggestions are no to API. Salifert is a great test. Ammonia maybe for the beginning and Alk + Ca maybe. It took months for that little tank to cycle. You could speed it up by using someone else's live sand and rock to like overnight. I did it dry. What you will need above else, a nano ATO and a heater controller. The tank is so small that loss of water can fluctuate the salinity by quite a bit, and a heater can really get out of control in a small environment. My ATO was a 2 liter bottle attached to the side of the tank using gravity, but we live in the future and there are actual products now. I use a dosing reservoir and a Aqua max ATO that is perfect for the three gallon I have now. My heater control is a Bayite. It works MUCH better than the inkbird for half the price. These two things are a must for consistency.

Oh and maintenance. I had no skimmer, it is useless. What I did was, you know those dixie cups you get a frat parties? I had a five gallon bucket with a power head in it with salt water going all the time. I would remove a dixie cup daily and refill with a dixie cup daily. Then once a week do a 2 liter water change, this was a five gallon fluval. You could probably double my amounts here. This kept a really decent little tank stable and happy for many many years. My 3 gallon pest tank right now is completely neglected. Every two weeks I do a 80% water change. Nothing is happy in that tank expect the aptasia. So do the dixie cup trick. Oh and filtration was floss. That's was it.
 
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Capro

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So I actually had the fluval set up for five years. My suggestions are no to API. Salifert is a great test. Ammonia maybe for the beginning and Alk + Ca maybe. It took months for that little tank to cycle. You could speed it up by using someone else's live sand and rock to like overnight. I did it dry. What you will need above else, a nano ATO and a heater controller. The tank is so small that loss of water can fluctuate the salinity by quite a bit, and a heater can really get out of control in a small environment. My ATO was a 2 liter bottle attached to the side of the tank using gravity, but we live in the future and there are actual products now. I use a dosing reservoir and a Aqua max ATO that is perfect for the three gallon I have now. My heater control is a Bayite. It works MUCH better than the inkbird for half the price. These two things are a must for consistency.

Oh and maintenance. I had no skimmer, it is useless. What I did was, you know those dixie cups you get a frat parties? I had a five gallon bucket with a power head in it with salt water going all the time. I would remove a dixie cup daily and refill with a dixie cup daily. Then once a week do a 2 liter water change, this was a five gallon fluval. You could probably double my amounts here. This kept a really decent little tank stable and happy for many many years. My 3 gallon pest tank right now is completely neglected. Every two weeks I do a 80% water change. Nothing is happy in that tank expect the aptasia. So do the dixie cup trick. Oh and filtration was floss. That's was it.
Wow yours is quite simple, did u have any kind of powerhead in the tank or did just use the flow from the return pump? and how do u insert the floss? is it in the 2nd chamber or 1st? And where do u recommend i put the ATO and heater? Im also wondering about dosing, is it really needed or can i skip that part? Since mine is a 15 Gallon, im not sure if the return pump flow would be enough for LPS and softies.
 
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Capro

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Well, that’s not correct and I hope those stickies do not actually say that. Alkalinity is always an important parameter and it goes south far faster than calcium.

Start out with alkalinity, salinity and temperature.

Next is calcium, then nitrate and phosphate.

Ammonia is only useful during cycling. Don’t bother with nitrite testing.
So those 6's are the 1 that ill be testing daily. Is it once per week or more?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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So those 6's are the 1 that ill be testing daily. Is it once per week or more?

unless you are dialing in a dose of something, I’d base the gap between tests on weather it seems to be rapidly changing or not. Alk is the main one to test now. If it’s ok, test again in a few days. No need to even test calcium if alk is not changing or being dosed. Once a week for salinity and nitrate and phosphate is a good place to start.
 
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Capro

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unless you are dialing in a dose of something, I’d base the gap between tests on weather it seems to be rapidly changing or not. Alk is the main one to test now. If it’s ok, test again in a few days. No need to even test calcium if alk is not changing or being dosed. Once a week for salinity and nitrate and phosphate is a good place to start.
Is dosing really needed or no? also ive been wanting to ask, would i need a wavemaker or powerhead for the 15 gallon Fluval Flex or is the return pump flow enough?
 

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Is dosing really needed or no? also ive been wanting to ask, would i need a wavemaker or powerhead for the 15 gallon Fluval Flex or is the return pump flow enough?
You won't know if dosing is needed until you have test data (plural)
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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I think you may find it more useful to read the stickies in some of the main forums rather than trying to get answers to everything in one long thread. They will tell you things you do not know to ask about. :)
 

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