Parasite?

[fishgirljockey]

Does anyone know what this is? I have searched the internet all over and can’t seem to find anything that looks like this. HELP! This is a Duncan coral. I have two Duncan corals, only one has these two parasite looking things on them. I tried to dip and no luck. I also did the freshwater route, no luck. Both corals have barely come out in about a 6 weeks. There is a few times, maybe less than a handful of times they have come out half way and then quickly go back in. They both try to come out everyday very very little and then suck back in. I have tried different locations and flows…zero luck. This is super frustrating. I left it alone the past 2 weeks.

I have a 40g breeder with a Corallife light. I run about 70% blue and 30% white all day. Lights on at 1030/11am until 10:30/11pm.

I have a Fluval 207 canister and a Fluval filter. Temperature 82 degrees. All levels are good

Salinity: 1.025
CA: 420
PH: 8.3
NO3: 5.0
PO4: .25
KH: Always stays at 12

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

What exactly are we looking at? Can you get a picture with white light? If you think there's a parasite, can you remove it with tweezers? Do the "parasites" move?

 

[fishgirljockey]

What exactly are we looking at? Can you get a picture with white light? If you think there's a parasite, can you remove it with tweezers? Do the "parasites" move?

sorry, I felt that it was super obvious what I was talking about. I already turned my tank lights off so I’ll get another photo. I didn’t see why the white light would make a difference in what it is. The shape of it is a dead give in to someone who would know.

 

[MaxTremors]

sorry, I felt that it was super obvious what I was talking about. I already turned my tank lights off so I’ll get another photo. I didn’t see why the white light would make a difference in what it is. The shape of it is a dead give in to someone who would know.

White light makes it easier to see the details and color of it.

So first, it’s not a parasite. It looks like some sort of barnacle or foraminiferan, possibly even a colonial tunicate. But it’s not a parasite.
Your Duncan’s likely aren’t extending because your temp is too high. In general most corals will tolerate 82°, though 76-78° is preferable, but Duncans especially seem to not like elevated temps. They also don’t like phosphates above 0.10 or so, ideally you want them in the 0.03 to 0.08ppm range. Also, your alk is pretty high, i don’t recommend going over 11dkh, though some people do have success running that high. Are you dosing anything (any two parts, PH buffers, anything)? And lastly, continually moving it and taking it out and dipping it is only causing stress, it can take weeks for a coral to settle in after being moved. I would lower the temp and phosphates, and I would recommend switching to a lower alk salt.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I didn’t see why the white light would make a difference in what it is. The shape of it is a dead give in to someone who would know.

Hmmm... clearly not, hence the request for a better photo and description!
But whatever.

 

[fishgirljockey]

White light makes it easier to see the details and color of it.

So first, it’s not a parasite. It looks like some sort of barnacle or foraminiferan, possibly even a colonial tunicate. But it’s not a parasite.
Your Duncan’s likely aren’t extending because your temp is too high. In general most corals will tolerate 82°, though 76-78° is preferable, but Duncans especially seem to not like elevated temps. They also don’t like phosphates above 0.10 or so, ideally you want them in the 0.03 to 0.08ppm range. Also, your alk is pretty high, i don’t recommend going over 11dkh, though some people do have success running that high. Are you dosing anything (any two parts, PH buffers, anything)? And lastly, continually moving it and taking it out and dipping it is only causing stress, it can take weeks for a coral to settle in after being moved. I would lower the temp and phosphates, and I would recommend switching to a lower alk salt.

I’ve had the temp at 77 before and someone told me to try putting the temp up. It wasn’t coming out when I had it at a lower temp either. I don’t think the temp is the problem. How do I get the ALK lowered? I can’t seem to get it away from being at 12. The only thing I dose is magnesium one a week. I use the Fluval one. My phosphates were at zero when I first got it and I kept it at zero for 2 weeks, it still wasn’t coming out. The first day I got it, it was out for 3 days flowing nicely and I’m not sure what happened inbetween those 3 days. There’s no color to it, it’s just white and dark spot in the middle. It doesn’t come off with tweezers, it’s hard as a rock.

 

[fishgirljockey]

White light makes it easier to see the details and color of it.

So first, it’s not a parasite. It looks like some sort of barnacle or foraminiferan, possibly even a colonial tunicate. But it’s not a parasite.
Your Duncan’s likely aren’t extending because your temp is too high. In general most corals will tolerate 82°, though 76-78° is preferable, but Duncans especially seem to not like elevated temps. They also don’t like phosphates above 0.10 or so, ideally you want them in the 0.03 to 0.08ppm range. Also, your alk is pretty high, i don’t recommend going over 11dkh, though some people do have success running that high. Are you dosing anything (any two parts, PH buffers, anything)? And lastly, continually moving it and taking it out and dipping it is only causing stress, it can take weeks for a coral to settle in after being moved. I would lower the temp and phosphates, and I would recommend switching to a lower alk salt.

I looked up all the things you said. I definitely think it’s a barnacle! There are few photos that look like it. Good call!

White light makes it easier to see the details and color of it.

So first, it’s not a parasite. It looks like some sort of barnacle or foraminiferan, possibly even a colonial tunicate. But it’s not a parasite.
Your Duncan’s likely aren’t extending because your temp is too high. In general most corals will tolerate 82°, though 76-78° is preferable, but Duncans especially seem to not like elevated temps. They also don’t like phosphates above 0.10 or so, ideally you want them in the 0.03 to 0.08ppm range. Also, your alk is pretty high, i don’t recommend going over 11dkh, though some people do have success running that high. Are you dosing anything (any two parts, PH buffers, anything)? And lastly, continually moving it and taking it out and dipping it is only causing stress, it can take weeks for a coral to settle in after being moved. I would lower the temp and phosphates, and I would recommend switching to a lower alk salt.

I did some research and I definitely think its barnacles. There are some images that look exactly like them. I had the temp lowered before and it didn't change anything. Everything in the tank is doing really really well except for those. I like to keep my phosphates where they are because all my corals were doing way better when it reached that level. When I had the Duncans I was at zero phosphates for a while. It climbed a little but it didn't make a difference. Im not sure what it could be. If anything, I think maybe the ALK. I can try to lower that. They still have their neon green color. They are healthy looking, just not coming out.

 

[MaxTremors]

I looked up all the things you said. I definitely think it’s a barnacle! There are few photos that look like it. Good call!

I did some research and I definitely think its barnacles. There are some images that look exactly like them. I had the temp lowered before and it didn't change anything. Everything in the tank is doing really really well except for those. I like to keep my phosphates where they are because all my corals were doing way better when it reached that level. When I had the Duncans I was at zero phosphates for a while. It climbed a little but it didn't make a difference. Im not sure what it could be. If anything, I think maybe the ALK. I can try to lower that. They still have their neon green color. They are healthy looking, just not coming out.

Zero phosphates can cause issues the same as elevated phosphates can. You ideally what low, but detectable levels (0.03-0.08ppm). Depending on the test kit you’re using (I guessing API?), it may not have high enough resolution to be useful for reefing. The API test goes from 0 to 0.25, 0 is too low and 0.25 is over 3 times the max you’d want. I’d recommend getting the Hanna ULR phosphate checker, it’s the easiest to use and tests down to 0.01ppm, it’s kind of expensive but worth it IMO ($50), a cheaper alternative that tests that low is the Tropic Marin Pro phosphate kit (around $20).

As far as lowering your alk, there are ways to lower it, but I wouldn’t recommend them to someone who isn’t well versed in reef chemistry. The safer alternative is to just do water changes with a salt mix that has lower Alk. What salt mix are you using? I would look for a salt mix that has a dkh of 8-9 (some examples: Fritz RPM blue box

I wouldn’t recommend dosing magnesium if you aren’t testing for it, you could be dosing way too much. You shouldn’t dose anything you’re not testing for.

Other than correcting the elevated parameters and testing for Mag, I would just leave it alone and give it time.

 

[fishgirljockey]

Zero phosphates can cause issues the same as elevated phosphates can. You ideally what low, but detectable levels (0.03-0.08ppm). Depending on the test kit you’re using (I guessing API?), it may not have high enough resolution to be useful for reefing. The API test goes from 0 to 0.25, 0 is too low and 0.25 is over 3 times the max you’d want. I’d recommend getting the Hanna ULR phosphate checker, it’s the easiest to use and tests down to 0.01ppm, it’s kind of expensive but worth it IMO ($50), a cheaper alternative that tests that low is the Tropic Marin Pro phosphate kit (around $20).

As far as lowering your alk, there are ways to lower it, but I wouldn’t recommend them to someone who isn’t well versed in reef chemistry. The safer alternative is to just do water changes with a salt mix that has lower Alk. What salt mix are you using? I would look for a salt mix that has a dkh of 8-9 (some examples: Fritz RPM blue box

I wouldn’t recommend dosing magnesium if you aren’t testing for it, you could be dosing way too much. You shouldn’t dose anything you’re not testing for.

Other than correcting the elevated parameters and testing for Mag, I would just leave it alone and give it time.

The salt I use is the purple bag. Which one do you use? Honestly everything in the tank is doing so well, it’s only the Duncan’s. I have a ton of Zoas, few mushroom corals, bta, clove, Jack o latern, pagoda cup, few acans and few more. I have a few friends in the salt world who use my tank as a hospital tank. I had this coral 3 weeks ago and now it looks like this. I do dose Magnesium. I was going to order the henna, I’ve been meaning to. I just wanted to do research first so if you say that one is great, I’ll get that. Everything is thriving, I just can’t figure out why these two Duncan are being so stubborn. Although my phosphates right now it’s at .5 I’m a very heavy feeder and when I gave those parameters I had just fed so that’s prolly why it was high at the time I posted it. Maybe I should of mentioned that I had just fed. Where do you order the henna from? I use the aqua forest kit for the magnesium. It’s at 1300.

 

[MaxTremors]

The salt I use is the purple bag. Which one do you use? Honestly everything in the tank is doing so well, it’s only the Duncan’s. I have a ton of Zoas, few mushroom corals, bta, clove, Jack o latern, pagoda cup, few acans and few more. I have a few friends in the salt world who use my tank as a hospital tank. I had this coral 3 weeks ago and now it looks like this. I do dose Magnesium. I was going to order the henna, I’ve been meaning to. I just wanted to do research first so if you say that one is great, I’ll get that. Everything is thriving, I just can’t figure out why these two Duncan are being so stubborn. Although my phosphates right now it’s at .5 I’m a very heavy feeder and when I gave those parameters I had just fed so that’s prolly why it was high at the time I posted it. Maybe I should have mentioned that I had just fed. Where do you order the henna from? I use the aqua forest kit for the magnesium. It’s at 1300.

Duncans are sort of the canary in the coal mine kind of coral, they’re hardy, but can be sensitive and will usually be the first to show outward signs when something is off. If your phosphates are generally high. It also swinging from 0.25 to 0.5, that will cause more sensitive corals to react. Also, your angel fish could also be the problem, they are notorious for picking at LPS like Duncans, you may never even see it (fish know when you’re in the room and will sometimes drastically change their behavior, try sitting very still across the room for an hour or so, and you might be surprised at how differently your fish act). The Hanna Phosphate checker is worth the money IMO, you should be able to order from Amazon, BRS, pretty much any major online aquarium store. Make sure to get the Phosphate ULR, they also make a Phosphorus ULR which will detect slightly lower concentrations, but then you have to convert the number back to phosphates, so I recommend just getting the Phosphate.

 

[fishgirljockey]

Duncans are sort of the canary in the coal mine kind of coral, they’re hardy, but can be sensitive and will usually be the first to show outward signs when something is off. If your phosphates are generally high. It also swinging from 0.25 to 0.5, that will cause more sensitive corals to react. Also, your angel fish could also be the problem, they are notorious for picking at LPS like Duncans, you may never even see it (fish know when you’re in the room and will sometimes drastically change their behavior, try sitting very still across the room for an hour or so, and you might be surprised at how differently your fish act). The Hanna Phosphate checker is worth the money IMO, you should be able to order from Amazon, BRS, pretty much any major online aquarium store. Make sure to get the Phosphate ULR, they also make a Phosphorus ULR which will detect slightly lower concentrations, but then you have to convert the number back to phosphates, so I recommend just getting the Phosphate.

I just got the angel fish 4 days ago. Its not the fish. I actually have a camera that watches the tank, he doesn't pick on a single coral, none of my fish do. II heavy feed for that reason with fish and I keep the tank loaded with copods for mandarins and angel fish that has a diet of picking on rocks. It keeps them busy and away from corals. I have a very small camera on the corner that keeps an eye on things cause I work a lot of long hours so I like to keep an eye on things. I'm going to order the henna and ill get the phophate ULR for sure. Thanks!! Ill keep you posted on everything. Right now they are peaking out, but that's as far as they go. Its frustrating but ill work on it!

 

[Reefer Reboot]

Does anyone know what this is? I have searched the internet all over and can’t seem to find anything that looks like this. HELP!

Look up Limpet and see if it matches.

 

[fishgirljockey]

Look up Limpet and see if it matches.

Wow, you know, some of the shells of the limpets look like it. Im trying to get a better look at it but the position its in, I can't see it without having to pick it up. Right now, its starting to peak out and I don't want to stress it out! This is the longest it has been somewhat out lol Its super super small, whatever it is. I would say the size of a piece of rice and its hard. The middle part is darkish red and the surrounding is white. These are what it kinda looks like the most. It also looks like it’s on the stem but in the stem if that makes sense, like it’s part of it. Whatever it is, it’s driving everyone nuts cause no one can figure it out. The Duncan is healthy looking too. No discoloration. The other Duncan next to it doesn’t have it. It doesn’t look like it’s moving it’s position either on the stem. It’s permanent whatever it is. I’m dumb founded! I put both of them in front of a very strong flow to try that. And both of them are out. Not completely out but this is the most both have been peaking out especially the other one who doesn’t have the spot on the stem. Maybe it was the flow this whole time smh

Look up Limpet and see if it matches.

 

[fishgirljockey]

Look up Limpet and see if it matches.

Look up Limpet and see if it matches.

I tried to get some better pics.

 

[Reefer Reboot]

It doesn't look like they have moved at all. Limpets would move like any other snail and would be fairly easy to pop off so I doubt that possibility.

 

[AydenLincoln]

I’m not sure what that is but your duncan looks like it had it’s polyps bailout and is very dead.

 

[reeferdugong]

probably 2 new heads are growing. If i remember correctly, as my duncan trying to grow new heads, the polys shrunk for a while.

 

[fishgirljockey]

Yeah they

It doesn't look like they have moved at all. Limpets would move like any other snail and would be fairly easy to pop off so I doubt that possibility.

haven’t moved. I’m so perplexed! I have no idea what it is.

 

[fishgirljockey]

I’m not sure what that is but your duncan looks like it had it’s polyps bailout off and is very dead.

It’s not. It comes out. It’s growing two new heads

 

[fishgirljockey]

probably 2 new heads are growing. If i remember correctly, as my duncan trying to grow new heads, the polys shrunk for a while.

That’s what the guy at the store said. He said he thinks it’s growing two heads because one of the areas looks like new flesh coming through. I actually brought the dang thing to him to look at. He said it’s growing two heads, that when it starts to grow two heads people mistake the beginning stages to be a parasite or limpet cause it has the same pattern as it stretches out. He said the white “legs” surround the center are the tentacles. As it starts to stretch out, the tentacles will detach from the stem