Refugium instead of Sock?

[mythesis]

Question: Would it be wise to replace the filter sock in the left part of the sump with a refugium?

I have a newer (1 month old) 90 gal setup with sump as pictured.

Someday (months from now, I know), we'd like to add a Mandarin, which we understand needs lots of Copepods to thrive.

I'd love to add a refugium, especially to grow pods, but don't really see where I have room. So I wondered if I could just toss some chaeto & a grow light in the left compartment of this sump and let it go to work?

If not, ideas of where to put the 'fuge? The 5 gal container in there is my ATO reservoir, not sure if I could put something to the right of the whole setup.


(Bonus question: if I were to ever install UV....how would I go about plumbing it in based on this?)

 

[Jekyl]

An established 90g can home a mandarin even without having a sump. I wouldn't give up the filter sock.

 

[twentyleagues]

I stopped using socks a long time ago on reef tanks. I still use them on my fw tanks less stuff that can use the garbage the socks catch. My current and past reefs the drain goes to a refugium a proper refugium sand, rocks, different macro algaes, pods, worms, snails and a crab or two. That flows to the skimmer chamber then back to the tank. Any particulate matter in the water column is food for corals. I have started coral snow once a week about 5 months ago and use some floss in between the fuge and skimmer for a day maybe 2 after. It does give you crystal clear water after, not sure if this is helpful (users say it is) to the corals in being able to grab smaller particles or if its all just being removed by the floss and skimmer. I saw no difference in water clarity between socks and no socks.

I noticed years ago getting rid of the socks actually decreased my nitrate and phosphate levels. You need to change them very frequently or the stuff just rots and creates more issues than it removes. Thats why roller mats were invented to remove that stuff before it breaks down.

 

[Pistondog]

Id remove the sox as @twentyleagues suggests, butretain the space. You might want to use sox later, for special occasions, sand cleaning, rock scrubbing etc.

 

[mythesis]

Id remove the sox as @twentyleagues suggests, butretain the space. You might want to use sox later, for special occasions, sand cleaning, rock scrubbing etc.

So just remove the sox, but no refugium?

I'd love to implement what @twentyleagues is talking about, but I don't think the baffles in my current sump would allow that.

 

[dmsc2fs]

You can also look at a macro algae reactor. Tunze, Reef Octo, Pax Belleum all make versions of them. This will give you a place to grow macro and thus a place for more pds.

 

[ShakeyGizzard]

I don't think your pods would make it through you socks anyway

 

[twentyleagues]

So just remove the sox, but no refugium?

I'd love to implement what @twentyleagues is talking about, but I don't think the baffles in my current sump would allow that.

Yeah that looks tight on space and the baffle between the skimmer and sock looks very low. Can you block off the lower one with a bolt on plate? I know some sumps have those options.
Looking at your setup you could put a pump fed refugium that would drain into your return area or skimmer area where your top off res is. It wouldnt be quite as efficient as having the fuge right under your return but it would work. OR! slide your sump to the right and have the fuge right under the return then it could dump into the same place your return does now. Take out the sock or put it in as needed! Either way it would require you to build or buy something for your fuge, and a little D.I.Y-ing.

I typically build my sumps for my purposes. My current tank sits on a 75g sump with about a third of it used for the refugium.

 

[mythesis]

Not gonna lie, I did not anticipate the amount of DIY in this hobby, lol. I'll investigate those options, thanks @twentyleagues

 

[twentyleagues]

I don't think your pods would make it through you socks anyway

You are correct. So thats one reason to either remove the sock or put the fuge/reactor after it.

 

[twentyleagues]

Not gonna lie, I did not anticipate the amount of DIY in this hobby, lol. I'll investigate those options, thanks @twentyleagues

I honestly think sliding the sump over and installing a fuge as the first place the return water goes is the best option. I am very DIY minded so to me this is easy. I have made a few overhead/pump fed refugiums in the past but these are not as efficient as you need to feed them for the pods to multiply which kind of defeats the purpose of limiting "nutrients" best outcome from them was net zero but usually increased nitrate and phosphates.

 

[mythesis]

I honestly think sliding the sump over and installing a fuge as the first place the return water goes is the best option. I am very DIY minded so to me this is easy. I have made a few overhead/pump fed refugiums in the past but these are not as efficient as you need to feed them for the pods to multiply which kind of defeats the purpose of limiting "nutrients" best outcome from them was net zero but usually increased nitrate and phosphates.

Can you describe what this would look like?

I assume some kind of container the return would go into, lit.

Then it would "overflow" into the current sump somehow? (removing the socks so that the pods could flow through & get pumped back into DT eventually)

Would all of this be dictated by gravity or require extra pumps?

(Sorry, very very new to all this, and trying to think through what you're saying)

 

[Lavey29]

I don't think your sump design supports a fuge area. Here is mine which starts after the sock for reference.

 

[twentyleagues]

Can you describe what this would look like?

I assume some kind of container the return would go into, lit.

Then it would "overflow" into the current sump somehow? (removing the socks so that the pods could flow through & get pumped back into DT eventually)

Would all of this be dictated by gravity or require extra pumps?

(Sorry, very very new to all this, and trying to think through what you're saying)

Correct. Gravity no pumps thats a headache and a mess waiting to happen. Acrylic is pretty easy to drill for bulkheads glass is a little more difficult but with the right tools and know how its actually pretty easy too. I have used totes as well but, in your situation, I would look for a glass or acrylic tank totes tend to bow under water pressure and that can mess with flow a bit if you are not careful. The plus side to glass or acrylic is you can see into them easily to watch whats going on in there. Drill the fuge, install a bulkhead and pipe it to the same spot your return now enters. Depending on your flow the pipe needs to be the correct size and typically I install 2 of the same size at the same water height in the fuge just in case.

 

[KrisReef]

Removing socks may significantly increase the turbulence in the area?

 

[mythesis]

Correct. Gravity no pumps thats a headache and a mess waiting to happen. Acrylic is pretty easy to drill for bulkheads glass is a little more difficult but with the right tools and know how its actually pretty easy too. I have used totes as well but, in your situation, I would look for a glass or acrylic tank totes tend to bow under water pressure and that can mess with flow a bit if you are not careful. The plus side to glass or acrylic is you can see into them easily to watch whats going on in there. Drill the fuge, install a bulkhead and pipe it to the same spot your return now enters. Depending on your flow the pipe needs to be the correct size and typically I install 2 of the same size at the same water height in the fuge just in case.

Ok, so my plan would be:

Shift the current sump over a few inches
Obtain an acrylic box that fits in the gap to the left & mount light to top
Run current drain into new acrylic box via bulkhead attachment
Install drains via bulkheads into current sump


Other than a small amount of mess from shifting the current sump over & disconnecting/reconnecting the current drain, that should be relatively painless.

 

[twentyleagues]

Ok, so my plan would be:

Shift the current sump over a few inches
Obtain an acrylic box that fits in the gap to the left & mount light to top
Run current drain into new acrylic box via bulkhead attachment
Install drains via bulkheads into current sump


Other than a small amount of mess from shifting the current sump over & disconnecting/reconnecting the current drain, that should be relatively painless.

You really wouldnt need a bulkhead for the return but you could if you wanted. It would be easier if the fuge was open top and the pipe just dumped into it, extend pipe a little under the water line to minimize sound.

 

[twentyleagues]

The pipe in the back corner is my drain it sits about 2" under the water with a 90 degree elbow to direct flow. The other pipe is my emergency drain I have that an inch or two above the water to hear if water is going down it. As you can see it's time to harvest the macro again.

 

[mythesis]

So....where does one find a 7" x 12" box that's roughly 20-30" or so tall....

 

[twentyleagues]

So....where does one find a 7" x 12" box that's roughly 20-30" or so tall....

You would probably have to look into things like a used acrylic ato res. Is that all the space thats available? I was thinking something like a 20g tall on a stand but thats like 24x12x16 maybe a 10g or 15g usually find them cheap at petco during the 50% off sale. You could use one of the tuff totes hd sells they have a smallish one I am using on a fresh tank as a bog filter. I dont know exact measurements I think its 7 gallons very easy to drill lol.