kenand
Active Member
What is a system for my whole house to make my tds stay at 0? I use a separate cannister for the di resin on my 5 stage, under the sink system, but it doesn't even last thru a 40 gallon tote.
Whole house systems for lowering tds
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I suspect your RODI is not properly tuned. What is the TDS coming out of the RO line before going through the DI resin? My water is hard and about 6-10 TDS before DI resin. I have gotten hundreds of gallons out of it.
What would be the purpose of having 0 TDS available throughout your house?
saltytanked
Active Member
On well water?
kenand
Active Member
Yes.
If you're on well water there is a good chance you have dissolved CO2 in your water. This will cause you to go through resin like nobody's business.
To combat this, you need to pump water into a brute, leave it overnight to off gas, and then pump the water from the brute through the RO/DI unit into a second brute. I think aerating the water with an airstone may help the off gassing. Sucks if this is the problem. My condolences.
To combat this, you need to pump water into a brute, leave it overnight to off gas, and then pump the water from the brute through the RO/DI unit into a second brute. I think aerating the water with an airstone may help the off gassing. Sucks if this is the problem. My condolences.
kenand
Active Member
From some research, a booster pump will help. The pressure is low coming out of the rodi system.
Darstar301
Community Member
I am on well also and have a booster pump to the RO due to low pressure, but the CO2 kills my DI in about 80 gallons. Going into Anion and Cation then DI will make my DI last longer but will kill the Anion in about 180 gallons of water.
kenand
Active Member
That sounded confusing. So,I'm pretty much " screwed" on getting the best of both worlds when it comes to getting the easway out on getting 0 tds? That brute bucket changeover you brought up will get old quick.
KStatefan
2500 Club Member
It is the pressure into the membrane that you want high, low on the output is good. That pressure differential is what makes the membrane work.
My degassing chamber and surge tank is all automatic so there is nothing that gets old but I have room to have it set up all the time.
Dburr1014
10K Club member
I'm on a well with high co2. I bought a seperate anion and cation and mixed bed.
Every 150ish gallons I use lye to recharge the anion. I got it down to about 45 minutes of work and back up and running.
Need a cloth filter(or coffee filter) plastic strainer, container the strainer fits into, a bucket, and lye.
I put the lye in cold water, dump the anion in the filter/strainer, dump that into the lye solution. Wait 15ish minutes while stirring occasionally. Pull the strainer and fix it over the 5 gallon bucket. Use about 2 gallons of ro/di to wash the anion. Repack the anion and run water through your system with the mixed bed disconnected. Once the TDS reads 1 or 2, hook up the mixed bed. Throw away the higher TDS water. Baking soda will inert the lye water.
I would not want the whole house on ro/di water. It has no ions, it will pull ions from copper pipe degrading it quickly.
Every 150ish gallons I use lye to recharge the anion. I got it down to about 45 minutes of work and back up and running.
Need a cloth filter(or coffee filter) plastic strainer, container the strainer fits into, a bucket, and lye.
I put the lye in cold water, dump the anion in the filter/strainer, dump that into the lye solution. Wait 15ish minutes while stirring occasionally. Pull the strainer and fix it over the 5 gallon bucket. Use about 2 gallons of ro/di to wash the anion. Repack the anion and run water through your system with the mixed bed disconnected. Once the TDS reads 1 or 2, hook up the mixed bed. Throw away the higher TDS water. Baking soda will inert the lye water.
I would not want the whole house on ro/di water. It has no ions, it will pull ions from copper pipe degrading it quickly.
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Ignoring the volume of air needed, the questionable effectiveness and logistics and/or possible churning of mud or whatever in the well base...
Why would you want to de-gass Thousands of gallons for the whole house when you only need to process relative 10's of gallons for the RO/DI?
What is the pH of your well water? Raising it a bit may help with the CO2 issue... so an inline calcite reactor may do wonders if the pH is low.
saltytanked
Active Member
Welp, that’s the issue right there! I’m on a well and burn thru DI. I added a 3 stage while home filter plumbed into the main water line, but nothing you can do within reason to stop burning through Di.
SteveMM62Reef
Valuable Member
Because if it’s acidic, it’s probably eating up every fixture, and piece of metal in your plumbing system.
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But you don't typically try to aerate the well. You use an external device that aerates the water (similar to the DIY solutions above) as part of the treatment (hard water, sulfur, etc.). Typically if the pH is that low (enough to eat plumbing and fixtures), then treatment would be part of the setup.
I would be curious as the OPs nominal well water pH.
SteveMM62Reef
Valuable Member
BTW, It was my Well Driller that was trying to help me with my water quality issues. They’ve been in business since the 30’s. They were going to use a pump that was for ponds, to the well and a special water filter, in the basement. Ended up doing a one shot chemical treatment. I’ve had repeat the chemicals, but not recently. Aeration in the house, would mean with the existing Well pump in the well, a powered spray tank, filter with backwash. and another pump to pressure up the Well x trol tank, and house piping. Plus another vent up and out through the roof. At present I don’t have a problem, other than iron.
kenand
Active Member
That's a good question. I'll do some research.
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