In line GFCI module

Adamc13o3

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In the past I have found that regular GFCI outlets are a bit too sensitive and would trip for no reason. That being said I still prefer to have GFCI protection for my tank. I know that my outlets and breakers are 20A and use 12/2 wiring. I ordered an inline GFCI module from amazon to use on my regular outlet. It was not easy finding a 20A version. Well, it just arrived and it says 15 AMP and then below that says 20 AMP GCFI rating. Can anyone explain what that means? I attached a picture with my fingers showing the conflicting information.


Thanks,

Adam


Screenshot 2023-09-05 at 8.36.37 AM.png
 

Gill the 3rd

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Thats normal. You will find most receptacles on a 20 amp 12/2 circuit are actually only rated for 15 amp. This is allowable by the NEC because you aren't overloading the circuit and a breaker trips at 80% of its load. So a 20 amp breaker actually trips at 16 amp.

The other way around (20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit) is a no no.
 
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Adamc13o3

Adamc13o3

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No, I highly doubt it. I do have 2 x 200 watt heater, a UV sterilizer and a chiller. The heaters are there for redundancy so I doubt they will be on at the same time, the chiller and heater should not ever be on at the same time anyway, and the UV will be used only when needed. For lighting I will have 1 sky LED fixture. So no, I am not worried about pulling so much power through 1 line. I am just trying to understand if I got duped here when ordering this inline GCI module.
 

Gill the 3rd

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No, I highly doubt it. I do have 2 x 200 watt heater, a UV sterilizer and a chiller. The heaters are there for redundancy so I doubt they will be on at the same time, the chiller and heater should not ever be on at the same time anyway, and the UV will be used only when needed. For lighting I will have 1 sky LED fixture. So no, I am not worried about pulling so much power through 1 line. I am just trying to understand if I got duped here when ordering this inline GCI module.
No you didn't get duped unless they said it was a true 20A. 15 amp receptacles are rated for a 20 amp loads. That's what the packaging for your inline GFCI is saying and is pretty typical. That's why you are having a hard time finding a 20A, they aren't commonly used in residential.
 

BZOFIQ

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The problem with these cords vs the outlet installed ones is that when you have a short power outage the GFCI trips and you have to be there to reset it.

Test it yourself before you put it to use.
 

The_Paradox

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The problem with these cords vs the outlet installed ones is that when you have a short power outage the GFCI trips and you have to be there to reset it.

Test it yourself before you put it to use.

Power outages should not be tripping GFCI
 
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Adamc13o3

Adamc13o3

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The problem with these cords vs the outlet installed ones is that when you have a short power outage the GFCI trips and you have to be there to reset it.

Test it yourself before you put it to use.
Im gonna test it later today.
 

alton

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The problem with these cords vs the outlet installed ones is that when you have a short power outage the GFCI trips and you have to be there to reset it.

Test it yourself before you put it to use.
Manual reset GFCI's are used on construction sites where if you loose power you don't want the equipment to come back on while you are not ready for it causing injury. Send that one back and get an automatic reset.
 

theatrus

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In the past I have found that regular GFCI outlets are a bit too sensitive and would trip for no reason. That being said I still prefer to have GFCI protection for my tank. I know that my outlets and breakers are 20A and use 12/2 wiring. I ordered an inline GFCI module from amazon to use on my regular outlet. It was not easy finding a 20A version. Well, it just arrived and it says 15 AMP and then below that says 20 AMP GCFI rating. Can anyone explain what that means? I attached a picture with my fingers showing the conflicting information.


Thanks,

Adam


Screenshot 2023-09-05 at 8.36.37 AM.png

I doubt you’ll readily find a 20A cord - that would require a 5-20 plug end which isn’t common.

The rating you care about is 15A as that is the receptacle limit. You probably shouldn’t be running 15A or near there through an outlet anyway (derate by 20% for constant load).
 

liudachris

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My outlets are a bit hard to reach behind my tank so I actually installed a gfci breaker instead. Not sure if it’s equivalent.
 

Steve Zee

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Since this is on the DIY section, I would seriously consider installing a Din rail and adding a 30mA trip set gfci like this: Amazon product -

The reason being that the North American standard is extreme and applies to "let go" threshold of 6mA meaning that the class A device must open circuit before 6mA. The "Let-Go" threshold is to guarantee that even a toddler would be able to pull his/her hand away from a device if caught in a circuit. Of course, if you have small children then I would understand being wary of doing this. Anyone can see the interest a toddler would have poking around in a cabinet with a sump if given the opportunity.

A 30mA allows for so much more cumulative leakage before tripping and eliminates almost all nuisance trips. Remember everything inherently has current leakage and with age it grows. So the more you have or add to your tank combined with age will add to your leakage current and will cause GFCI to become even more susceptible to false tripping. In case you are wondering 30mA is not a pleasant shock... I've taken it multiple times - Yikes! But for healthy adults, it is not dangerous at all.
 

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