We got this from a guy who had everything already plumbed where its suppose to go but we have no idea how to hook it up and where to put the filer or where anything goes I can take more pics if I need to?:squigglemouth:
If you have the space i would recommend getting rid of the bioballs and do a sump with a refuge
here is a layout for my sump
the uv sterilizer is optional and I'm sure some reefer may disagree but its an effective way to ensure no parasites in your tank
key
Cp carbon reactor pump
pp phosphate reactor pump
up uv sterilizer pump
rt return pump
I'd say since you are just learning, you only need a basic sump with a return pump, skimmer, and heater. Once this is all set up, then you can add reactors if needed.
Get rid of the bioballs and attach a filter sock to the drain. This will filter out large detritus. I personally find these fancy sumps with the baffles to be overly complicated and unnecessary. My sump is a 20 gallon long tank, no baffles, and with no particular layout. I maintain a very healthy and stable system.
I agree with Stray32 that since you have just started that the design that i have is a more advanced set up and a simple design is design would be a better choice for a beginner . but I not argee on the statement that baffles are useless,the baffles are used to create the refuge where copepods can breed and grow, and beneficial algae to grow. I have noticed added benefits since adding a refuge to my system. Its something to think about down the road
Sorry and it will become clear after you get it running.
1) kill the power and make sure water from the upper container stops flowing to the lower container before the lower container floods. One thing I overlooked was the pipes used to pump water back to the tank will from a siphon and drain under power out. So make sure the return pipes are above the water line in the tank or if they are above the water line drill small holes above the tank water line so that some of the pumped water flows out above the waterline. then under power out air can enter through those holes and disrupt the siphon back to the pump.
2) the restart the pump and insure normal operation returns. The main "problem" here is with hang on the back overflows where siphon may have been broken and the drain back to the sump never restarts.
3) Overflows through blockage or breaking siphon can fail. So the water in the display goes higher and water in the sump goes lower. The key here is to insure the sump "runs dry" before the display floods.
Again once you get it running this will be much more evident.
Do you have the sump in the picture connected to the display with pipes? If not do you need advice on plumbing, overflows and so on?