Consider the ULR phosphorus test kit from Hanna. A bit more accurate than the Salifert in my opinion and no guessing on shades of blue.
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Thanks, I just picked up the Hanna Alk and like it a lot over the titration. Was thinking of moving to their other kits too. I like not having to interpolate between colors.Consider the ULR phosphorus test kit from Hanna. A bit more accurate than the Salifert in my opinion and no guessing on shades of blue.
I really like the DOS, with the Apex its so easy to setup and adjust. I was a bit confused when I plugged it in, it just started to run one of the heads. Turns out the button is supper sensitive. Once I figured that out its been smooth sailing. I'm only using it for ALK right now, with adding KALK in some top off, the calcium is met, its kind of on the high end actually. May change and use the 2nd channel for adding the kalk instead of top of to stabilize it. With winter temp swings my evaporation rate is fluctuating more than usual.Thats awesome. Enjoy it. Let us know how you like the DOS. I've been reading a bit about it. I'm kinda old schood and enjoy spilling reagants on my keyboard. LOL
Thanks for the advice, so far I haven't seen any new pests and the montipora I have all look good and are entrusting. I may have dodged a bullet.Sorry to hear about the other monti @Shorebreak...those darn nudis are really resilient once their established, if you have some. When we talked about it that's what it sounded like to me.
If you wanna check the tank for the new frags sake, here's some photos of what you're lookin for. There are a few different species, but most of the nudis themselves as well as their eggs either look like tiny white snowflakes, or tiny white clumps of cavier.
I've heard of hobbyists and professionals having success with taking a toothbrush to the adults and the eggs. If it's a more delicate monti, you can try a Waterpik turned down all the way (picture attached). It's nice because you can easily control the pressure on the coral with the pressure dial and how far away the nozzle is away from the coral. They also come with nozzles that make different flow patterns, and one is a toothbrush attachment so best of both.
The hosing that the pik comes with isn't very long (I can get 3 ft out of the one I use if I really stretch it), so may need to get a bit creative. If you do decide to go with a Waterpik, make sure to use tank water to not mess up levels. I wouldn't expect the pik to last forever because it's saltwater, but if it's the difference between prized montis perishing or surviving, I'd say it's worth it.
Hope this helps in the battle, let us know how the progress goes.
that's a good idea, think I may try that on my sump. ThanksI noticed some salt creep near the drain lines, this is the side I have my controller and other electronics so I wanted to minimize this effect. I added a sponge to keep all the microbubbles from fizzing out the top. So far so good.
I switched the ICECAP KALK Stirrer to dose through the DOS instead of the ATK as I was hoping to normalize the doses. instead of it running constant with the ATK as large dose, more smaller doses through the day.If I were you I'd definately look into dosing kalk with it and get rid of the milk jug on top of that awesome tank. LOL
I use a Bubblemagus and keep it at a relatively equal height to my sump and it doesn't seem to struggle at all. I'm sure the DOS is much more capable.I switched the ICECAP KALK Stirrer to dose through the DOS instead of the ATK as I was hoping to normalize the doses. instead of it running constant with the ATK as large dose, more smaller doses through the day.
its not working as well as I had hoped. The DOS has a hard time pushing though the stirrer with its amount of back pressure. I was surprised. It runs a few times with nothing, then builds and finally flows out more as a stream. Wondering if I have a bad head, as I have read the DOS should have a good amount of lift. I have checked to see if line is clogging, and it is open. just has the back pressure from feeding at bottom of the stirrer.
No more milk jugs though, haha
nice polyp extension! Looks good.Been a while, so here is an update with some photos. I have added 2 new fish, a Yellow Coris Wrasse and a red flame Hawkfish. I did loose 4 Chromis, I assume they are bullying each other, but I haven't noticed it. randomly there will be one less. Abut a month ago I started to get coralline growth forming every where so I have added a bunch of frags, a COCO worm and a Maxima Clam. Most frags I have purchased are encrusting so that is great, although I have lost a few, had a birdsnest that just turned white, but batting pretty good right now. My small hammer frag has split. I thought it was unhappy for a month, but looks good as two heads now. I have had some cyano that dusts the rocks, but it comes off pretty easy and hasn't affected any coral. Added a microscope to my reefing tools to make sure I knew what algae I was dealing with, very helpful with R2R members helping me along the way. I haven't seen any Monti eating Nudis in 2 months and with the new wrasse I hope I never do again.
No problem, I have no regrets with this tank. holding up well so far. Let me know if you have a question.Following along. Thinking of getting a 200 peninsula also. Thanks for the update
I haven't seen one in person, sorry. I think there may be a build thread with one though, I think I remember seeing it when as researching mine.Hi All,
Has anyone have the Peninsula style of this type of tank. If anyone can see some picture plz. Thank You!
Always,
Jay
@BoneDoc let me know when you got your 200 Peninsula style as I was planning on getting that too. I have not got it yet cause still waiting for the room to build. When you get chance take a lot of picture especially the overflow and under the overflow plz and thank you in advance. Looking forward to see it.Following along. Thinking of getting a 200 peninsula also. Thanks for the update