Hi all! New to R2R and thought I'd share my build as part of a big main floor renovation. Fought my wife over whether the dining room needs a coffee bar or a 120G reef tank, and thankfully won . I've taken my experience keeping a 75G and come up with my dream system in terms of size and functionality.
Design features:
- We took out the shower of the main floor bathroom which is never used and created a salt water mixing/storage room out of it. Since it was a shower, it had waterlines to supply the RO/DI.
- Implemented a water transfer pipe that runs from the top of the display tank through the ceiling joists to the salt water mixing room. Panworld pump for pumping RO/DI water into the ATO reservoir as well as salt water for water changes. I've also roughed in a 1/4" tubing line for implementing automatic water changes with a Neptunes DOS in the future.
- Tank is built into the wall to be viewable from both the dining room and the hallway. The dining room side is finished with cabinetry that matches the dining room pantry cabinets.
- Installed a drip pan under the sump with a floor drain, for water changes and accidental spillage.
- Installed a drip pan with a floor drain in the salt water mixing room.
Part 1 - Planning:
As you can see from the following pictures before and during renovations, I wanted the tank viewable from the hallway and the dining room. I initially wanted it as long as possible with a 2ft height, and even considered the Waterbox Peninsula 7225, but eventually decided on a custom 66" tank which equated to a 120G display tank and a 40G sump from Fiji Cube. This was a compromise on my part because my wife wanted some "non-tank" storage in the dining room flanking the tank, which turned out to be a good call!
Direct view of the tank wall
View of dining room side
View of hallway side
Tank visualization
Finalized tank drawings
- I chose a Herbie overflow instead of a Bean Animal because I wanted a 1.5" conduit going from display tank to sump so I could drain water from the display directly down to the floor drain in the sump cabinet with a vinyl tube. There weren't enough room in the overflow for more holes.
- To save costs, I chose wood framing instead of metal which unfortunately meant big posts in the middle of the sump cabinet. My thinking was that the hallway side will not be accessible so a metal stand felt kind of wasteful in terms of accessibility. But looking back, I really wish I went with metal.
- I chose a front to back distance of only 21" because I knew I would only have maintenance access from the dining room side, anything deeper and it would be a struggle to reach the sand bed of the hallway side.
- I made sure to put in GFCI plugs both above the display and in the sump cabinet.
With that, I confirmed the tank specs and production! As for the cabinets around the tank, I used the following for the design inspiration and created my cabinetry plan with my cabinet maker, who did an amazing job both with my kitchen and the tank wall.
Built-in inspo
Cabinet plan for tank wall
Part 2 next!
Design features:
- We took out the shower of the main floor bathroom which is never used and created a salt water mixing/storage room out of it. Since it was a shower, it had waterlines to supply the RO/DI.
- Implemented a water transfer pipe that runs from the top of the display tank through the ceiling joists to the salt water mixing room. Panworld pump for pumping RO/DI water into the ATO reservoir as well as salt water for water changes. I've also roughed in a 1/4" tubing line for implementing automatic water changes with a Neptunes DOS in the future.
- Tank is built into the wall to be viewable from both the dining room and the hallway. The dining room side is finished with cabinetry that matches the dining room pantry cabinets.
- Installed a drip pan under the sump with a floor drain, for water changes and accidental spillage.
- Installed a drip pan with a floor drain in the salt water mixing room.
Part 1 - Planning:
As you can see from the following pictures before and during renovations, I wanted the tank viewable from the hallway and the dining room. I initially wanted it as long as possible with a 2ft height, and even considered the Waterbox Peninsula 7225, but eventually decided on a custom 66" tank which equated to a 120G display tank and a 40G sump from Fiji Cube. This was a compromise on my part because my wife wanted some "non-tank" storage in the dining room flanking the tank, which turned out to be a good call!
Direct view of the tank wall
View of dining room side
View of hallway side
Tank visualization
Finalized tank drawings
- I chose a Herbie overflow instead of a Bean Animal because I wanted a 1.5" conduit going from display tank to sump so I could drain water from the display directly down to the floor drain in the sump cabinet with a vinyl tube. There weren't enough room in the overflow for more holes.
- To save costs, I chose wood framing instead of metal which unfortunately meant big posts in the middle of the sump cabinet. My thinking was that the hallway side will not be accessible so a metal stand felt kind of wasteful in terms of accessibility. But looking back, I really wish I went with metal.
- I chose a front to back distance of only 21" because I knew I would only have maintenance access from the dining room side, anything deeper and it would be a struggle to reach the sand bed of the hallway side.
- I made sure to put in GFCI plugs both above the display and in the sump cabinet.
With that, I confirmed the tank specs and production! As for the cabinets around the tank, I used the following for the design inspiration and created my cabinetry plan with my cabinet maker, who did an amazing job both with my kitchen and the tank wall.
Built-in inspo
Cabinet plan for tank wall
Part 2 next!
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